2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Can some one give me the torque spec for the vp44 side? I think it's 28ft pounds on the injector side and 89 inch pounds for the injector hold down. Crows foot pretty much mandatory for putting in new injectors and getting the right torque spec?

Just installed a new to me (Reman) VP44 after my old one went out completely. During the install I took out the factory lift pump which was mounted on the block since I already have an airdog 100 on the frame. As well as replacing push rod gasket. Blocked off mounting bracket for old lift pump with a big block chevy fuel pump block off plate (Mr. Gasket #1516) frees up some space and adds a little bling lol. So original lift pump and fuel filter are completely off truck. I go to start the truck after purge all air out of injector pump as well as injector lines. Ive done this before a few months before after new fuel filters but i definitely feel like more fuel was put out…

Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, I'm doing the w-t ground mod and I'm a little stumped on the alternator charge wire. Maybe it was explained somewhere but I'm just not seeing or overlooking? So, we unhook the original charge cable from alternator and pdc and then just have a short cable from alternator to passenger side battery with a fuse/breaker inline? Question; so no cable gets connected back to the pdc? Why go to the trouble of disconnecting it at pdc and completely removing it? Just cut it and leave it? Am I missing a step? Thanks for any help on clearing this up!

I have a wierd issue that seems to only affect my truck in the morning. I have had a random low voltage map sensor code that didn't cause any issues. So i replaced the map sensor 6-8 months ago and all was well. Lately though it has come back. Usually a few seconds after I start my truck up I get a check engine light but it has taken as long as ten minutes of driving. Some mornings I can drive normally with the light on. Some mornings I get essentially zero boost so the truck is a slug. Sometimes it's jerky, I get a little boost then it cuts fueling I guess because it's back to no power. It always idles fine and even drives fine if you don't have any big hills. The only…

I need the part # for 1999 dodge 3500 pdc or any year that is the same and were could I find one I am doing a engine swap and need one

Hello everybody I appreciate any advice. I just purchased a 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9L Cummings, This truck only has 95,000 miles on it in great condition but it hasn’t been driven very much in the last five years I am going to change oil, oil filter, fuel filter anything else you recommend doing to it. Also it gave me a P0234 code Overboost. When I was on the freeway getting on it, cleared the code it came back a few days later on the freeway again recommendations thanks zev

I'm not sure why one would use this over an air removing AirDog or FASS, but for an ELECTRIC pump has anyone heard of using a Holley Dominator? Only some sizes (100 and 200 GPH) are Diesel compatible, for some reason unknown to me. I think if I was looking for a frame mounted, non-air removing lift pump, I would choose this and the external regulator over the DRP (which I have) or Raptor 100. Anyway, this post is just for bench racing, if you will. Love to hear other's thoughts. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-1800

Trying to find torque specs for nv4500 to bell housing and bell housing to adapter plate.

Im have a charging issue along with the transmission not having od. I checked the blue and green wires at the back of the alternator and the blue wire has no voltage. where does the voltage come from? does the pcm send 12v to the alternator or does the alternator send 12 volts to the pcm? or do both get their power from the pdc where the trans relay is?

I have the Timbo APPS, fixed the previous Lock/Unlock issue a couple of weeks ago. Last weekend I hitched up or 5th wheel for a 3 hour trip. With the 5th wheel in tow, the dreaded Unlock/lock cycling came back, especially later on in the trip when the truck was good and heat soaked, or so it seemed. I have driven it to work (30 minutes each way) this week after disconnecting the 5th wheel, and the issue is again gone. I have previously checked for alternator noise, which was negligible. Is it possible that the charge circuit to the 5th wheel is inducing this problem, or possibly the extra heat in the transmission when towing? Any thoughts would help.

DTC P0122: APP SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOW Monitor & Set Conditions Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor(APPS) voltage is monitored when the engine is running. DTC may be stored if low Hi all, I'm new to this issue, just wondering if I should just install a Timbo APPS Sensor and hope that fixes it, or look into other potential issues, or both. If both where should I begin trouble shooting this code? I'm sure there's a writeup in this magical world somewhere if anyone can share any link(s) with me it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance for any suggestions advise, etc.

I am doing a Cummins swap to a 1995 v10 3500 the Cummins is a 1999 5.9 diesel the truck was wrecked and busted the PDC I can not find one anyone have any ideas

Hi, Installed reman VP44 from DAP, no codes, no problems. But engine now requires excessive cranking to start when hot. It fires right off when hot. Truck has FASS 150 that provides 20psi all day and I've always used a protected isolation relay between ECM and the FP. In preparation for a trip last weekend, and with limited time, I modified my existing isolation relay by adding the NC relay and using the B+ from brown solenoid wire to hold FASS150 at bay during cranking. Moparman has an article on it. No noticeable improvement was seen. I switched to a FASS DDRP-02 I have as spare (circa 13psi) and truck fired right off. Suspect problem is to…

Looking for input, I'm pretty much stock, but hoping to add Quad Adrenaline this winter. I do have RV275's. I won't use wire tap, just Can tuning (or so I think) . The price difference is about $40 dollars, but Airdog states that the difference between the 2 pumps is the rpm of the motor (2000 for 100, 3000 for 150). Will I see any benefit of running the 150 over the 100 with the mild mods I plan. I was thinking the lower RPM 100 might last longer than the higher rpm 150, but I know that engine longevity thinking may not apply to electric motor longevity reality.

I’ll keep this brief since my phone battery is low and it’s 110°. I was driving to San Diego from Tucson when the truck started losing power, throttle did nothing. When I pulled over the truck shut off. Now I can’t get it to start. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge. No codes. When I try to start it, it just shakes really rough

I got a 98 24 valve I had the dreaded dead pedal. I changed the oem tps to aftermarket ended up being the pump. The ecm was also rebuilt. I have driven it maybe 70 miles and it's back but not a total dead pedal like before but partal. I back probed the tps= 0.35 at idle wot 0.391. At idle it's supposed to be somthing like 4.95. So is it the sensor or is it not getting enough volts?

A few days ago, I experienced a random dead pedal issue on my lunch break at work. I went to go grab some lunch and everything was fine. Got back to the job site and killed the engine to eat. When I went to start it back up, I put it into drive and started to take off through the parking lot. At the moment I started to put my foot on the pedal a little, I realized I had no response. I mashed it and still nothing. Long story short, called a roll off tow truck, when he got there, it worked again. 2 days later (replaced TPS that day), dead pedal again. Reading forums and stuff to find sequences, all fuses are good, CEL went away when I pulled a fuse to test voltage on. Put i…

Before I lay down big bucks for a FASS or Airdog I decided to give the Herko fuel lift pump a try. 1998.5 Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24V. The Herko pump Installed pretty easily. I had to grind one corner off the mounting plate on the pump to make it fit. My stock location is left rear of engine block. My Herko pump did not come with the 90 degree adaptor for the fuel line from tank hook up. It is not needed. I was able to clip my stock fuel line on to it no problem. The rest of the details and psi readings are here in the video. Yep a FASS or Airdog is likely in my future. We'll see how this Made In China Herko pump holds up. I can monitor it with my gauge. I will carry …

I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9l that is stock other than a Predator mechanical fuel pump that I have recently put on. I have had the issue even before I've done any work to the truck of there being brief second of no power and then returning like nothing happened. I will be driving normal (Smooth accelerations) and every once in a while the truck will loose power and go back to normal in a matter of a second. I've always thought it was a problem with the stock lift pump on the side of the motor so i recently replaced it with a predator lift pump and haven't seen it run below 14psi. But even after I did so it still does this intermittent loss of power issue. It can vary from…

Noticed today that when the clutch is engaged (foot off the clutch, "in gear") in any gear or neutral, there's a screeching/screaming noise coming from the transmission I can only assume. Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and throw out will be 2 this September/October and if it's the throw out bearing this will be my 2nd one that started by screeching before taking my clutch out. What could it be and if it's the throw out bearing is it too late to save my $1000 clutch or would it be something simple like a slave cylinder? I so think I need a new one since engages and disengages are a little rough...