2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Has anyone installed RV275 injectors in an otherwise STOCK or very lightly modified truck and ran it on a dyno? Anyone made dyno pulls mostly stock vs 275 injectors? I have a 01 4wd auto. Bought it cheap with 174xxx miles needing some minor work. The only engine upgrades are a BHAF, a Fuel Boss pump and new Bosch RV275 injectors. Truck runs much smoother with better starting after the injector swap but I'm curious how much HP and TQ the injectors really add.

I'm not sure if the video came through, but this one's just for fun. This is Skyler Oestrich's (Dynomite Diesel Products) race truck on the chassis dyno at Hunting 4 Horsepower here in North Idaho last Saturday. Any HP guesses?

Hello, My truck is a late 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 24 valve with 250xxx. I live in the middle of Minnesota. Just to make everyone aware. I have had an issue with the truck since ownership, that every year my fuel gells up at least once. Last year was the worst, I think like 3 times. Had to use a nip cone and a bunch of cardboard to get the fuel thawed enough to start. I use diesel fuel additives year round (white and gray bottles), and generally more in the winter, including walmart brand 2 stroke oil TCW3 year round. I have the Fass DDRP with relocation kit on the frame just in front of the tank, with the Beans Diesel sump kit…

2001 cummins 24v 5 speed I’ve swapped into a 97 single cab short bed Dodge Ram ss/t i eliminated the harness at the 2 off-engine plugs and ran acc power through relay to give ecm power to run. I recently have purchased a edge comp box and tapped pump wire but engine makes no difference in power with pump tap wire plugged in or unplugged from box. Now here’s the real issue. I can’t remember the exact code off hand but it was a code for a pump solenoid and I believe it’s the pump metering solenoid the comp box taps into. What might be my issue here? I’m new to the forum as well.

So I’ve been having this problem with my truck, it randomly started the other day, when the truck warms up at an idle it sounds likes it missing, when I am driving it and hold it at a steady rpm around 1500 it surges and then when you rev it up, or let off the throttle to while it is in gear it takes a while to idle back down. I already tried to clean the injectors and changed the fuel filter and the water separator. Don’t know what else to do. Anybody know what’s going on?

This evening i pulled in driveway, turned key off and got out as always { edge juice cool down timer} but engine never turned off. i came back to truck hit the brake which usually bypasses the edge timer but not this time.. i could not get the engine to stop running. finally i unsnapped the fuse box cover on end of dash and pulled the fuse from edge.. finally got it cut off.. now it won't start, noticed right off that fuel pump not running,, so i cycled the key three time to see if any codes on Odometer,, ALL I GET IS MILAGE BLINKING AND THEN "NO BUSS" I've unplugged the edge but still same thing blinking then NO BUSS

Just finished fitting a Isspro mechanical fuel pressure gauge, this took 1 1/2hrs, removed the factory ash tray and the two top small bolts/screws behind were the same width apart as a cheap gauge mount I had so easy mounting and away from the pillar which I want to keep free for 3 other gauges I also slipped some Cat fuel line hose over the small plastic line for added protection in the engine bay and under the dash all the way from gauge to FP, still got to Zip Tie it all up but had to run it to check for leaks. FP sits at 15 to 16psi at idle, I haven't driven it yet as it's behind my work van, to swap them around my work van has to go onto the road for a minute …

I just came back from a camping trip and when I was 60 miles from home towing my 30 ft fifth wheel and 12' flat bed trailer with a side X side on it, I stopped for fuel and when I pulled out of the pump I could hear a noise under the truck so I stopped and the noise quit soon after kinda sounded like exhaust spit to me. When I got back on the highway and got back up to speed everything was fine till I went for 5th and it just ground I backed off and slowed down then got back up to speed and same thing it ground in 5th. I had one shop familiar with the fifth gear nut problem say they usually make not noise at all. Does this sound like a fifth gear nut issue or worse. And f…

Any guesses where this goes. My heart sunk at first but it's not a huge deal. I haven't yet dug deeper. Will find out soon.

2001 6 speed. So here's the story. Lately when the truck sits over night it cranks 10 seconds if not more to start. Rest of the day is no issue. I've got 20psi to the vp44. I've parked nose down. I've checked every bolt and fuel line. I've checked and load tested the batteries. Batteries are a touch on the weak side but not bad. I cannot for the life of me figure it out. Fuel tubes and injectors were pulled and re o ringed ect. A year ago. Any ideas? I'm honestly down to replacing the vp44 check valve and the fuel heater on the canister o rings. I understand its losing prime somehow but I'm having a hell of a time finding where. Once it fires up its bump the key and it po…

For about the last month or so, sometimes when I start my truck, it will idle at 1200-1300 RPM, and it just hangs there, never tones down. (no high idle switch on my truck) Other times it idles at 800-850. I've done the APPS reset a few times, it will help for a few days. Then it's back to high idle once and a while. Month ago I had auto zone scan my truck, no codes. Yesterday coming home from the other side of the state, coming down the mountain into Denver, truck started running funny, pedal was not responding. I would mash the throttle and RPM would jump up like the clutch was slipping, but truck was not increasing in speed. Few mi…

this is my truck, how is it for blowby?

I have had a big line kit for the filter housing to the VP44 for some time and want to install it. I have 2 “T’s” to splice into the rubber line in order to install the fuel pressure port. One is for the Quadzilla fuel pressure and the other is to the manual gauge on the pillar. Anyone see a problem with having two taps close together on the rubber line? Right now I have the banjo tapped on the VP for only the manual gauge.

Here you go gang... How to remove the VP44 the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to do this much. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the air horn bolts and dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm loosen the top clamp of the boost boot. Move everything out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plu…

Several days ago, my truck died while cruising at 60mph. There was no warning, pops, knocks, or clunks. The rpms dropped to idle then a few seconds later dropped to zero. Truck had full power until it died. Fuel pressure is good. Only throwing the p1693 code.I believe it to be a ground issue. The truck radio lost memory after sitting overnight and turned the am radio on. I'm looking for wire diagrams or someone who has maybe had a similar issue or any ideas. Anything will help!

Did 400 mile today into South West Wales to drop of my house build reciepts for a tax accountant to process my tax reclaim... we get 20% Vat back on new build house materials costs, my truck must have smelt the £££ as on the way back in lockup OD accelerating a little uphill engine seemed to just stop for less than a second but then back to normal with a clunk as the trans was driven again.... that is the best I can describe it, just like a manual trans and coming off the throttle and then straight back on it , I hadn't got the Modis with me so couldn't check anything, but no codes on dash, I don't think the trans is dropping out of drive as engine revs do not rise…

Hey everyone! I have a 2002 Dodge CTD auto with 277k. I’m getting the “no bus” message on my odometer screen with codes 900 920 921 940 950 and 999 on the self check. The CEL, ABS, low fuel and air bag lights are on. I’ve cleaned up the connections at the PCM and fuse block, cleaned grounds and still no fix. The truck does start and drive normal so I don’t believe it’s the PCM. Any input is welcome thanks!

I'm going to do my first transmission service. I bought a Goerend Trans Pan for the better drain plug, better drainage slope inside, better gasket according to other forum discussions. One problem keeps coming up is leaks and drips when done. So I'm wondering how so it won't drip when done. Should I use RTV to both sides of the gasket? One guy says he puts RTV on and then tightens the bolts only finger tight, waits an hour and then torques the bolts to spec. Wondering too about the trans temp sending gauge port on the side. Does that accept Isspro Temp sending units? Anyone ever done a Goerend Trans Pan? Thanks for any ideas/ tips

I had a TC bolt back out sitting in the case/adapter hitting the flex plate, fixed that. Used red loctite on everything, all bolts are tight, billet goerened flexplate installed. Still getting a rattling sound when the torque converter is locked under load. I think the noise is coming from the TC, not the motor, because it only makes noise in lock up. Hard acceleration in 1st 2nd and 3rd is noise free. Truck idles fine, no abnormal noise. After doing some reading, some cummins people complain about ATS torque converter rattle and early 7.3s too. Anyone ever heard of this? Converter is a DPC triple disc. Transmission shifts fine, no slipping to my knowledge. @Dynamic? …

does any one know what causes a wait to start light delay