2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I had a TC bolt back out sitting in the case/adapter hitting the flex plate, fixed that. Used red loctite on everything, all bolts are tight, billet goerened flexplate installed. Still getting a rattling sound when the torque converter is locked under load. I think the noise is coming from the TC, not the motor, because it only makes noise in lock up. Hard acceleration in 1st 2nd and 3rd is noise free. Truck idles fine, no abnormal noise. After doing some reading, some cummins people complain about ATS torque converter rattle and early 7.3s too. Anyone ever heard of this? Converter is a DPC triple disc. Transmission shifts fine, no slipping to my knowledge. @Dynamic? …

I think I'm finally ready to ask these questions. I have decided to upgrade my 24v with a quadzilla adrenaline, injectors, compound turbo, and an exhaust brake. I am not interested in rolling coal. I do not race but I do tow. I like reliability and longevity. My NV4500 has a 450hp clutch. And I'm installing a new lift pump and lines. I'd like suggestions on compound setup and which injectors to match them with. I initially planned to build my own setup but now I'm leaning to buying a kit. I feel like I want to be in that 350-425hp area. If possible I'd like to keep air filter in place (corner of passenger cowl) but it isnt a deal breaker. T…

Ok, so. I have read about the P0341 and possible solutions. Now the back story is that this truck had several faults and I was able to remedy 90% of them. It had P01689 & P01688..P01689 I believe is due to 56mVAC coming from my alternator. When I disconnected the alt. charge cable the fault went away. The P01688...had to replace the VP44. It also had P0222, which still comes up randomly, adjusted the voltage to .465VDC and APPS relearn and it is doing better. I keep getting P0341, it stumbles and idles rough then, it clears up and when it does clear up my tach quits working. So, I checked the wiring on both the cam an…

on my 01 I replaced the primary pump to a fass ddrp,then got the 47re overhauled,I presently have 35" tires on ,seems gutless my turbo pressure is roughly 20 psi,my diff"s are 3.55,don't want to go extreme maybe 100 hp max.what should I focus on next??

Is it worth spending $250 on a deep transmission pan? Or just weld drain plug on stock pan? Thanks

I ve always told myself if the raptor ever gives up I'm going with a mechanical pump, and so the other day it started giving me fits and loosing pressure, I tried to adjust pressure up but the electric motor just barley running and sound sick so I just gave up on it, and ordered a fuel boss from GDP. My plan is to keep the plumbing as simple as possible, by eliminating a back up electric pump altogether, just dont see a need for it, and if I ever have to prime I will just use the cordless drill method like on filter changes or something. (also going to stick with the factory block mounted fuel filter for heating purpose) So I plan on tapping in on the 1/2" line from …

This is part 1...... Next being adjustable track bar and traction bars both already on order. Before After Already did the 3rd gen brakes too.

203,000 miles how does she look?

The emission issue with running any fuel supplement is I expect the powers that be pronounced a prohibition of ANY additive that has not been tested & proved to not put the emmisions out of limits. There's no way a 2 cycle refiner is going to spend the cash for this... so we're on our own. That does not mean it will worsen emmisions... just that it's untested. That being the case, I'm thinking of shutting up about what I put in the tank. I've had pump jockies eye ball me & even question it. If I had a container from a known additive, no one would blink an eye. Maybe I'll just magac marker the outboard marked container or find a motor oil quart. (I keep on…

Guys i am in need of some insight. I have a 1999 24v cummins. This truck has been a headache to say the least but i am at a standing point. This is what has been replaced in the last 6 months and has been at 4 different shops including a chysler dealer. They have all given up but i am not ready too. The truck will only run when the c3 plug on the PCM is unplugged. This is the plug nearest the passenger side fender. This is what has been replaced IP Liftpump- stock replacement PCM- has been flashed to match VIN at chyrsler dealer engine harness has been replaced with one out of a running truck with same year and details( 4x4, auto )…

Ok so here I go, I have a 99 ram 2500 4x4 auto trans 24v 280k miles. I am having a gremlin and here are the symptoms and the story. It started with my transmission not shifting out of 1st no matter how few or many rpms you threw at it unless you let off the petal and kicked it down that way, so I replaced Gov pressure solenoid, transducer, and for good measure the o/d and lockup solenoids as well also tightened the bands to spec and put new fluid in. Did not fix the issue, then the next day driving to work my speedometer says I'm not working Monday and drops to 0, so i replace both the speed sensor in the transmission tail housing and the one in the rear axle. Fixes the s…

Hey guysok - here is my tranny cooler setup. Brief as possible with pics. Thanks to jim (SASQUACH).Built frame with screws/bolts and square metal tubing lowes.Purchased metal mesh from lowes also and cut to match inside of frame. Allow air in - no rocks.Drilled Angle Iron into frame with tapping screws.Used threaded metal with lock nuts in cross member so I could adjust and lock height of frame (and for removal if I need later).Attached Cooler Frame to Angle iron bolted on truck frame and threaded metal on crossmember skid plate.Cut COLD (INLET) lnlet line at front of truck directly out of OE cooler.Ran 1/2" tranny rubber hose to cooler now bolted in frame behind transfer…

New to the forum previous owner of a 05 common rail.....soon to own 01 24 valve... Thanks in advance.. i just gave my word to buy an 01 2500 4X4 24 valve automatic truck... the truck is being sold because the vp is going out...i looked over the truck it looks fine starts fine but has these codes:ECU, p0122 apps/tps sensor voltage low,p0236 map sensor voltage too high too long, p0522 oil pressure sensor voltage low ,p0562 supply voltage low at ecm, p1488 auxiliary 5 volts supply output to low ECU done, PCU p1693 Pcu done.... am i crazy or did this truck just see low voltage and go to limp mode it was single digits when this happened along with the first and only dead peda…

I have been reading your articles and have a question about the Electric Fuel Gauge article. I am taking my tap point from the top of the existing fuel canister with a needle valve. I have a mechanical gauge now, but I am going to replace it with the ISSPRO EV2. Is this far enough from the VP44 or should I go a little further away before putting the sender in? I also have a question about the W-T ground wire mod - simplified version. In the article next to the last picture there is a connection in the ground wire about 3 inches to the right of your hand. Is this the fusible link that you talk about at the end of your article? I did my ground mod using W-T…

I was replacing my injectors yesterday and when I took the valve cover off one of the bolts ripped the insulation and that crap went everywhere. I know some fell into the engine and I tried to wipe what I could out by number 6. How screwed am I?

Well I just had a bad day! While driving my truck passing someone up hill I lost all power so I coasted to the shoulder!:banghead: After checking for fuel at the injectors with #1 and #3 lines cracked loose and getting nothing I then went with the inlet line and broke it loose fuel sprayed everywhere! I called my buddy with his 2008 Chevy 1500 and with a tow strap we made it home!!!:banghead: Broke out the scanner and found a P0251 YIKES!!!:banghead: From what I found on this site that means I need a new VP44?!?!? Can someone please tell me I'm wrong??? If I'm not where is the best place to buy a new IP from? Thanks for the help in advance!

I installed my AD today. Took about 5 hours and I had to make a home made bracket. I now have 15.5 psi at idle and 13 if I get my foot to the floor.

Hi Guys. I have a ton of mechanical experience but very weak in electrical. I hate it. Bought a 1999 Cummins for my daughter that will be turning 16 in Sept ( she will be paying me back for the truck, lol ) and even with new batteries, if it sits for a week or more, the batteries drain to the point it will not start. I have tried to research this problem & have eliminated the seat belt modules are not the problem. What else could it be ? Any help would be much appreciated. On a side not, it also does what I think is a weird thing. Sometimes when you turn the key to the on position, the wait to start light doesn't come on & no matter how long…

My oil level keeps going up slowly, i checked for blow by and didn't find anything. the truck still runs great and i am wondering if i could have a small fuel leak from like my injectors or crossover tubes and what could i do to test it. any help would be appreciated.

OK, bought the truck with high miles, 300k, and had an oil leak. Fixed the leak, wiring harness coated in oil. Cleaned the major connectors, ECM on the block, and the PCM by the firewall. Still get all of the codes; P0521 P1689 P215 causes P1698 No CCD P0562 alternator P0382 intake heater #2P0380 intake heater #1 P0215 circuit relay P1693 PCU …