2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Tried to start truck last week,(no codes) not getting enough fuel pressure through to some lines, I talked to local Bosch shop, told me pump is probably gummed up from setting for 8 yrs, I thought I drained most of the fuel out, but I'm sure some residual fuel remained. Anyway thinking of a way to un-gum it, thought of pulling pump and running brakecleen (suggestion from Bosch shop) through it while hand turning the pump. Welcome any suggestions, I already know if I can't get this cleaned I'll have to fork out the 1K for a reman pump.

Thought I had my trans sorted out but unfortunately that's not the case. Currently the TV lever on the side of the trans pushes back so hard I'm unable to push the throttle pedal down much beyond idle. I'm unfamiliar with how the TV interacts with the VB so I have no idea what could be causing this. I need to know if this is something that I would be able to fix tonight or if I'm just screwed.

Looking for a working around solution for 1/4 tank issues. Fuel is thru a sump that is at very rear of tank. When going down step hill I run out of fuel. (Actually when wife stops at mail box on our step driveway) Now she is scarred to death she'll be going downhill and run out of fuel and no power steering. I would like to install something that has more of "supply" of fuel than the small filters on airdog. Thinking about a filter housing without the filter installed, which would be just a space for more fuel than the airdog filters provide. I'm thinking about something about the 1/2 gallon size. Question...this should work i…

Ok, first off I bought this truck about 1.5 months ago and before I bought it, it had two brand new batteries and a brand new alternator installed. To be honest when I test drove it I don't believe the TC ever locked up(didn't know what TC lockup was when I bought it.) The transmission fluid was real brown and smelt really burnt, so I dropped the pan and changed the fluid and filter and adjusted bands(about 6 qts is all i got changed out. I didn't do I complete flush.) So now when the truck is cold, the TC will lock up at about 45-55mph, and the transmission starts to shudder until I get up to speed. After I get on the hwy it will stay locked in for about 4-5 miles then …

Ok, a little backstory- the truck has a build date of 8/99, auto 2500 with 370k miles I bought this truck recently with a bad transmission but had a reman in the bed. I dropped the reman off at a tranny shop to have them check it out and picked up a single disc torque converter while I had it out. The tranny checked out ok so I swapped the transmissions. On initial install, I only had 1,2,3 shifts with no od and no lockup. I dropped the pans on both and noticed the pressure sensors were different. I swapped the od solenoid, pressure sensor, and wiring harness from the original tranny to my new transmission. By doing so, I was able to pick up od and lockup but not it…

Hello, I've searched and can't find anything so I'm looking for some help. My 2001 5 speed will no longer shift into gear. The last few days while driving down the road, when in fourth or fifth gear, speeding up to lane change or for whatever reason the RPMs would jump 500 and then back to normal. Didn't seem like clutch was slipping or anything. Long story short it started doing it consistently more the other day on the way home, and now it won't shift into gear with the truck running. I can turn the truck off and it will shift into gear fine. The minute I fire it up it won't go into gear at all. I checked the fluid and its full. Truck has 260K on it. I hav…

So, I'm not getting into specifics, but I goofed. I was backing into a shop parking lot and from the first angle, there was no way I could have seen it... I backed into a freakin light pole... :eek::whistle: Now, this would not have been much of an issue, but I was backing into a parking spot off my passanger side mirror completely hiding the pole coming up on my driver side as I was turning into a spot... At the moment the pole was visible in my driver side, I was already into it. I caught the far corner of my bumper which pushed in and turned the fender under, cracked the tail light and really pissed me off. So, if you were going to buy a - Driver side back fender- N…

I've got a new one. I have the following codes; 0112 Intake Air Temp Sensor voltage low, 0230 Lift pump circuit out of range (This doesn't surprise me much as I took off the electric pump and have been running the mechanical pump for a few months now. Maybe I should have did something with the wires instead of just unplugging them), 0237 Manifold Air Pressure sensor voltage low, and 1475 Aux 5 volt supply voltage hi. The dead pedal affects the top speed. My acceleration sucks and it tops out about 55/60.Now I have heard 1475 is one of the codes that shows up when the ECM takes a dump but it accompanies codes from all the sensors and the alternator starts putting out crazy…

Alright so I have a question is there a physical difference between full body injectors and just nozzles? I have never seen either out of the engine other than pictures. Any pics would be great and how would a person go about finding out which brand and hp they are if they are already installed. any help is appreciated!

Just my experience, I have run 6 different sets of injectors. Stock, DAP 60hp VCO, DFI 100hp VCO, DAP 100hp SAC, Contagious 40-50hp SAC and now Bosch RV275 VCO. All VCOs ran great in every scenario, and both sets of SAC injectors gave a rough/choppy idle when warm in park and a stumble when warm at light throttle. SACs ran great with some throttle, but I couldn’t handle the choppiness. SACs gave me a scare I had engine issues, but new RV275s put that to rest.

Finally had to change a oil cooler gasket on my truck. It has been seeping for the last 5 to 6 months leaving a small bit of coolant on the floor of the garage. I will let you all know that oil cooler gasket set is a Cummins only thing. I tried NAPA, Autozone and few others and no one stocks this gasket set. As for changing it out is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the air filter and the oil filter. On the oil filter housing remove the oil hose for the turbo. Then the bolts holding the oil cooler in place are all 10mm heads. After I got it pull out I compared the new and old gasket to realize that the rubber seal lip had failed. You c…

My 2002 24 valve with 180 k miles through these two codes at me the other night as it shut down rolling through an intersection PCU P1693 & ECU P0230. I replaced my lift pump and fuel filter with (OEM parts) after Priming a number of times I got no result. From the sending unit to the injector pump there's what looks like a pressure sensor or regulator with two pig tail wires connected to it running to the lift pump so I grabbed/jiggled/fannessed the two wires and it started and ran so I pulled that part an nobody could idenify it or help me . I dont hear my injection pump running at the key on ignition off position but once I bump the key it pumps and it builds about…

So i pulled my injectors when i installed valve springs and mantons...well they were dirty as heck and full of ash.could barely see the holes,truck has had optilube every tank since injectors went in (2 yrs ago).is this normal??thanks

Hey guys, so since I've had my truck for a bit the engine temps are acting a bit weird. I know it's normal to climb up to around 200F before the thermostat opens, but mine seems to be doing it sporadically after the thermostat opens. For instance, driving home there was a bit of a grade for about a mile, and the temps climbed up to 208. The fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Then today, I was driving for 30 min or so and it was at 193, where it usually sits. Then out of the blue it climbed to 202 and sat there until the fan kicked on and it cooled back down. Ambient temps were both around 65*. I'm thinking thermostat, but it didn't do this before the new water pump.

Hello all! Ongoing issue with APPS. Truck developed heavy miss between 12 and 1600rpm wether truck is cold or at operating temp. No codes in computer, no CEL. Tested voltage of factory APPS (after trying resetting it) .54-.79, dropped to .51-.59, jumped to 1.02-1.73, dropped 1.51-1.57, jumped 2-2.7 etc. eratic voltage all the way to WOT at 3.81. ok, bad APPS. New timbo APPS installed per instruction, reset everything, started and miss is gone. smooth voltage .68-3.79. drove 1.5 miles and parked for three days. started back up, truck missed and loaped for ten seconds at idle (never happened before). idle cleared up, but same miss is back between 12 and 1600rpm. No CEL…

My Stewart Warner pillar gauge and I-Quad aren't reading boost the same. When I'm on the throttle, the pillar gauge says 35+ and Quad says 5-6. At cruise, mech says 4-5, Quad says 0 No doubt the mechanical gauge is right and Quad is wrong. I hardly use the Quad gauge on my phone so I don't know how long there's been a difference. No codes. Map sensor is clean - no soot. Is the Quad reading directly from the MAP sensor or thru the ECM? Can a MAP sensor be sick and not throw a code?

I received the 'dread' P1688 - but when reviewing the various threads, it is often accompanied by a number of other fault codes and usually the poster is stating that the engine won't run. My CEL came on ....but other than a code that can be reset (engine off) - but returns when engine is running - the truck drives and the VP pumps. I expect I will have to replace the VP.....but I don't want to rush and replace it if there might be something else to check and maybe something else might be the problem rather than the VP. I did read discussions about alternator problems where a bad (shorted) diode could create an AC component on the DC - and 'fry' electronics. I checked …

Hello all. Trucks a 2001 5spd/4x4. I had what seemed to be a failing lift pump so I installed a new FASS 150 and straw kit. My pump barely makes noise when I turn the key, sometimes my gauge goes to 2 or 3 psi other times 6 or 7. It seems like the pump is not getting the power it requires. I was told my ECM could be problematic. Truck seems to run fine I occasionally get a spike in my volt meter triggering "check gauges" but wouldn't that be a PCM issue? Any direction is greatly appreciated, I have searched but am nervous to shell out for am ECM if it's something else.

2001.5 6 speed was driving home just fine when I noticed white smoke coming from the tailpipe. If I hit the skinny pedal I got a lot of black smoke. Pyros were a tad high but not dangerous. Boost normal. Fuel pressure normal. Temperature oil pressure all normal. Even felt like normal power. Regardless took it easy for 5 miles to my driveway. Shut it down. Turned the key. It fired up. Same smoke issues. Shut it down. Turned the key. It rolls over like there is no fuel. Fuel pressure gauge is still good. Popped the hood. Recently had the fuel pressure gauge installed and noticed it was weeping a bit. Thought maybe I was getting air in the fuel …

I'm going to point out to everyone there is NO WAY to have just a P1693 code present during error code dumping. Yes the P1693 is a companion code and has no really meaning but... "This code indicates there is more code present in the other computer" So if the P1693 is in the P PCU that means there is more codes present in the P ECU. So if there is a P1693 in the P ECU that means there is more codes present in the P PCU. Then even in rare cases seeing the P1693 code in both computers pointing out that both computers have codes. But there is NO WAY for the P1693 to be the only codes present during error code dump. It's totally impossible! The reason I'm posting this is …