2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have noticed recently that my truck sounds nothing like half the other 24 valves I come across? What makes them sound different? The only difference I can think of is HO vs SO? Obviously 5 vs 4 and stock exhaust systems will have some impact still they’re is a large difference. Mods in sig.

Let me approach this subject a different way. I am looking for a different turbo for one of my 01 3500's and would like to know if there is any math or formula to help you make this choice? I know you have to try to match the air to fuel ratio, but thats it. I have BD's 110 injectors in this particular 3500 with a stock turbo and she always has a 16' company trailer attached to it with aluminum extrusion and ladders on it. I am just wanting a little more lower and a little lower EGT's without changing injectors of course. My other mods on the truck are basically the same for this one that is in my Sig below. If you need ,more info let me know and I will gladly…

Does anyone know of an app that lists the voltage outputs on pins from the obd2 port in near real time via a Bluetooth dongle? If not this would be a good one to have.

So along with re building my trans and t-case it was obvious that I needed to check to clutch out for wear and all that good stuff. So I did just that today. Snapped some pics to show yall. I have never had a sintered iron or competition clutch so I hope yall have some input.

Well seasoned school bus mechanic tells me when they get somebody new changing oil it's only about 2 weeks till they stop filling up new filter with oil before threading on new filter without prefilling. Interesting part to me was no failures that he knows of. I fill mine but wondering if really necessary. Other than manual says so. Do you prefill?

The bottom of my dip stick looks like someone put a tack weld on the end. I haven’t seen any signs of overheating. Haven’t noticed it before, is there something going on?

Had DAP rebuild some injectors with 150 nozzles. I got the injectors in a trade that were supposed to be 200's. The numbers on the nozzle are DSLA 150 P 755, and a 77103 with 939 below. It's not a big deal, I was just curious if these were actually 200s. The notes said all 6 old nozzles were leaking anyway.

So my daily finally left me stranded. For starters my WTS has always been sluggish to come on when starting the truck. It would not start until WTS light came on. Would crank and crank unless I waited for light. I figured it was a good habit anyways. On my way to work Saturday I noticed my headlights were dimming on and off, pretty abnormal because ambient temp was mid 40s and truck started like normal. After getting to work, I drove the truck 5 to 6 times to get tools with no problems at all. Finally getting geared up to go home, wait for WTS, light comes on, so I crank and get nothing. Now have no WTS and no start. Fuel pressure is at 18lbs. Code reade…

Pulled out my case last night to do a rebuild, where can I find the best kit for rebuild. I'm in this far so I might as well do deals and bearings. Need a complete kit-Please advise. On a second note, who ever was in there before used alot of rtv, and the pick up was pretty much clogged with it.??

Does anyone know what this orange wire goes to? In the schematic it looks like 5v.

Is it imperative that a drb III scan tool be used for this? I'd there another way this can be tested? I've been looking at the power probe hook and a obd scan tool as an alternative? Thoughts?

Hello all, first post. Read allot of helpful info on here in the past. My truck is an 2000 2500. It was an auto truck and I swapped a 5 speed into it about a month ago. Been doing great, this Friday I installed a FASS DRP and a big line kit to keep my VP44 happy. Got it all done, started the truck and checked fuel pressure at 15psi. Gave it a couple revs and it wouldn't rev over 2k, would defuel itself. That's when I seen the "NO BUS" message. Only gauge that works is the tach. Pulled codes through cluster and get 920, 921, and 999. Cluster check shows all gauges and lights are good. I have spent the day cleaning all connections, pcm, ecm, cluster, bulkhead connnectors, b…

My truck will be driving just fine for a couple days, but sometimes I will start it up and try to take off and I will just die right there, or I’ll be in a drive thru and I’ll be sitting there and it will die with no warning. Today it happened 4 times by the time I could get all the way through the drive thru. Starts up just fine, but for some reason it dies when I have it in drive with my foot on the brake. I don’t know if this has anything to do with it but I did notice recently that I have a leak coming from my hydro booster. Any help would be great

HI All, Does anyone know what series Metra pak plugs are used on my 2001 Dodge? There are several sensors with the locks on the Metra paks broken and I wish to replace them. Thanks Michael

Hi Guys, I have been learning alot about my cummins from reading these forums. This is my first post, so please forgive me if this topic has been covered. Background: I finally got my quad adrenaline board replaced and I had no boost pressure. I replaced the map harness because there were a couple butt splices in the wiring and presumed that was the problem. Once I changed the harness I have a boost reading on my control pod of 48-51 pretty consistently no matter TP, speed, ect. I did some reading on here and found out some map sensors "Fail High", which seems to correspond to my issue and also gives good reason to my poor mileage 8-10 mpg. Occasionally when I s…

Hi Guys, I was directed here from BigFish over on the cumminsforum.com My 01 won't start at all. For the past few weeks it was not starting back up once HOT. I pulled the fuse to the lift pump to see if it would then start when hot, to eliminate the possibility of a diaphragm issues in the vp44. It would not start. It did start the next morning and threw the code P0118, coolant temperature sensor. I replaced that sensor, and everything seemed fine. IT would start back up when hot after replacing that sensor. Then a week later at the diesel station, it did it again. Would not start back up when hot. I waited 20 minutes, and she fired right…

So being underway with the Ppump swap. i have Scheid Lines and a D&J grid heater delete spacer that is also a 1/2 inch taller and my monster ram hits on my lines and doesn’t go all the way on the spacer. Its almost if I need a 1 inch spacer over stock and it will clear maybe, but I don’t want to be to tall so the hood doesn’t close ? Has anyone ran into this and what have you used to clear everything? (Lines,hood,ect) This is on a 2001.5 24v pic includes is what I’m talking about.

Ok- I'm about to embark on an oil cooler gasket replacement. Has anyone done it? Any tips? My search of the site has not given me any guidance, so I'll post whatever I learn in the process. if you know of any resources, please let me know. My oil cooler leaks coolant intermittently, mostly not at all bust occasionally a lot, enough to require a gallon or more of new fluid in a day or two. I found the cummins parts for $35 on ebay. I'd welcome any input...

Soon to come... W-T simplified ground mod article. I did mine without buying very much stuff at all... All wire was reused!

I recently put a HO pump on my SO motor and it idles at about 1100 rpm once it warms up. If you floor it it’ll idle normal. But the ECM has a few high voltage codes for sensors so I’m wondering if the 5v supply is going whack or if I need to get an SO pump to put on.