2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My truck died in the driveway several months ago. I ran it for a couple minutes to move it to the driveway. When I went to start it an hour later, it wouldn't start. I've since been tinkering with it for months. Replaced lift pump relay. Replaced fuel filter. Tested lift pump pressure (10psi, low, but should start) Unplugged and re-plugged: VP44, PCM, VP44 relay, apps, various connectors I could reach Replaced batteries with brand new. Added 5 gallons of fresh fuel. Originally, there wasn't anything I could do to start the truck. Then I learned how to hotwire the VP44 and the lift-pump relay. I was able t…

I,m looking to install boost and fuel pressure gauges and would like recommendations on which gauges to buy . Any advice?

We are installing a replacement 5.9 Cummins engine in my sons 2001 Dodge Ram 2500. My question is on the engine wire harness just in front of the starter there is a Black wire with a yellow stripe, BK/YL, where do I connect this wire? Thank you for any help. Additionally. I just looked at the harness that came with the replacement engine and that same wire sticks out of the larger wire bundle about 6" which is same as on his truck but this wire is Black with White (BK/WH) stripe. I tried to clean up the one on his truck thinking maybe it's stained but it still show yellow stripe. Is this a ground that goes to the bracket under the fuel filter?

After changing my fuel filters, if it doesn’t kick off within 30 seconds, I usually grab a rag, pour some lawn mower gas on it, give rag a good squeeze until gas stops dripping out, open up air box, lay rag on air filter, (starter has rested by now), and turn the key. After it fires off, remove rag real quick. Engine does rev up a little, for few seconds but not bad. Today yacking with neighbor who is changing his filters on his back hoe says big mistake. What’s your opinion? Thanks

So I need some help. About 5 months ago I got the dead pedal. Got the codes saying it's bad so I replaced it from timbo and worked for a few hours then it happen again. The next day I replaced all battery terminals and fixed it for a few weeks. Once again dead pedal again. Found out one battery was bad and the other going bad. Replaced both and fixed the issue until now. I'm having dead pedal again and have no clue what's going on. I can't find anything and just need help. It is a 2001 ram 2500 24v with 75hp injectors rebuilt trans all new terminals and batteries.

Do I need to do anything special before starting a 01 that's been sitting a year? Should be starting Thurs or Fri. I know I have to do the APPS...anything else I should do?

ok unlike most My converter does not unlock most of the time. I have replaced and checked new alt. with new method, replace control solenoids, when I come to a stop it stays locked ,shifting to neutral does not unlock it. when I put back in gear will kill engine. when I restart it is unlocked. all though when I started it today after sitting all nite it was locked, shout it off when restarted it was unlocked.it seems to work fine when cold after warm up it fails to unlock. most of the time.also it was rebuilt about 10000 miles ago with new half billet converter.truck has 220000 miles

Whenever inunhooked my battery cables it reset my odometer. I read that your supposed to unhook negative first is that why but t did that?

I searched the past 45 pages of articles looking before asking. 1999 Dodge Cummins 2500 with fuel leak at #5 cylinder at injection connector tube and injection line nut. The tube had a cracked O-ring so it was replaced with a new tube. On start up no leak, 1 mile down the road no leak, up on the interstate for 6 miles and it's leaking again. Retightened but still leaking. Pulled the line off to check the mating surfaces with also looked good. Still leaking, any ideas? Part 2: This is for me to understand. The tubes pops out easy, no problem getting the removal tool on the tubes. Once in place how does it stay in place and not turn when tightening? First time I change…

I have a 2001 3500 4x4 5 speed with 4:10 rear end. The only aftermarket parts this truck has are as follows- flo pro 4" turbo back, S&B intake manifold, S&B cold air intake, Edge EZ, and Edge insight CTS2 (truck had the EZ when I bought it.). Here are my symptoms...The truck will de-fuel while driving down the road, BUT ONLY IN 5TH GEAR. The problem does not seem to be RPM related because I can fuel all the way up to 2800 (or whatever it is) in 1-4th gear. The truck has absolutely no hesitation to crank, or supply fuel in gears 1-4. The only consistency with the issue is it seems to happen after the truck has been driven for 30 minutes or so and only de-fuels in 5…

motor stumbles when under slightest load. slow acceleration no problem. video attached explaining everything that has been replaced and tested

So I got the kit a couple days ago and just finished the install this morning. I flashed the truck with a Smarty so I know it has high idle enabled. With the truck off, I turned the knob to 3 cly high idle and start the truck. I got no high idle and I got a P0113 engine code. I didn’t turn the knob at all once I put the key in the ignition. Only thing I did out of the norm is I had to extend the wires in the harness. Unfortunately the harness isn’t long enough to reach the overhead console which is disappointing. Since an extra 4 ft would have been enough. Any ideas where I need to look? When I expanded the harness, I went color to …

Just finished an 8 hour drive and I'm noticing my truck is lacking power at operating temperature, used to have no issues with taking off in 2nd when I had a FASS DDRP and stock injectors but now it struggles taking off in first while at operating temps. *My fuel pressure at idle used to be around 9-10 at WOT it would drop to 0. This was when I first got the truck and knew nothing about it a few years ago now I have a FASS 150 with a sump and the gauge sits at 15psi and 14psi under WOT*. But I ran it like that for a couple of months just thinking above 0 was good enough. Fast forward to knowing what I know now, I'm pretty certain that I've damaged it and now I've got a w…

Question 1. Larger 1/2 inch fuel lines seems to be what people like best for supplying fuel. What about the return line (line back to the tank) …Is there any benefit going with a larger return line? (Maybe to relive pressure as return line enters back to module with a small but OEM 5/16 fitting, or maybe the return line needs pressure?) Question 2. I'm having a hard time looking over and down at engine...In the pic, the return line is the lower one right? (top is brake line, middle hose is supply line and lower line is return?)

Yea, I think so lol Not sure if it was a loose connection or what but I'll be ordering a new one. Sad part is this was replaced less then a year ago so unless it was really a loss connection (aka my fault) kinda sucks but I'll talk to Genos and see what they can work with me on. Theres no fuses I need to check right? Needless to say, check your connections often or use lock washers lol

Well Gang, The Board of Directors on the Mopar1973Man.com has decided that we need to produce some new High Idle Switches for the 2nd gen 24V Cummins. We have spent a considerable amount of time designing a Brand New High Idle / MPG fooler Switch. We have learned from the last switch design and have made significant improvements. The New High Idle / MPG Fooler switch will be the same price as before, but it will be more robust and modular to allow for easier install. We have decided to only offer a "Install Anywhere Kit" rather than a gauge mount or Cubby Mount. You will nly have to drill one 1/4" hole to allow for the f…

Hello, I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 24v 5.9 with intermittent electrical issues. Sounds like fun - right? New PCM, rebuilt instrument cluster, paid so-called electronics experts to troubleshoot/repair, still have bus communication errors and half of the gauges (tach, oil pressure, H20 temp) do not currently work. Experts or I can fiddle/clean with various stuff and everything will work for a bit, but that nirvana is short lived - a few hundred miles at most. My latest exploration has found that the "power distribution block" (what are these blocks called?) in the under hood fuse box will not tighten as securely as I think it should... just as the …

99 24 valve, going uphill anywhere from 1500 rpms up, dosent matter what speed, im getting a strange whining noise. coming from the drivers side of the engine. any ideas? its not the turbo im pretty sure. also i have an oil leak coming from the bottom of the tranny bell housing, right on the edge of the cover for the flywheel and the torque converter. are the 2 related? havent noticed a loss in power, anything

So after just picking up a smarty, I got to wondering if I should just look into getting a TST and being done with it. I know quad is the go to tuner around here for its ability to tune out smoke and get any one setup to run great. But if someone doesn't want to test and tweak setting to get them just right, is the smarty stack still a good one? Pros/cons?

Hey Guys, <<For a List of vendors who have supplied junk parts or didn't stand behind their products....see the bottom of the article.>> pepsi71ocean here. I decided to finally write this article up after another round of people with issues with reman companies. So a while ago back in 10/2015 I shorted out my PCM with a botched rebuild on my Alternator(I forgot to add a sealing washer!) As a result, after replacing the defective alternator I still had no charging on the alternator. I went hunting for a re builder for my PCM. I was quoted almost $800 for a new blank from Dodge, and that didn't include programming. A friend of mine on Facebook who …