2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

At Les Schwab to buy a set of M-55's and switch from the old and corroded aftermarket aluminum dully wheels to stock steel and found out that my lugnuts will not work with the stock wheel and that i need to buy a set of 32 lugnuts at $11 bucks a piece. Can any one help? On a side note i am thinking of putting a second fuel tank in place of the spare tire. direct me to a old thread or chime in. My idea is to have the second tank feed into the stock one, so when the stock tank gets dry flip a switch and refill it with the second tank.

Started up my truck a few weeks back and I heard a loud pop and hiss...I thought it was just an issue with fuel as the truck was sitting for awhile. Get back in it a week later and run AC and it's not blowing cold at all so I blew something up. Hopefully just a hose. Any way to pressurize the lines with air to leak check?

I have an NP 241 DHD that has 2 cracks in the back of the case. All i am seeing for sale is NP 241 DLDs. Does anyone know if that back of the cases are interchangeable? Thanks Matt

So I installed my 7x.0105 injectors last weekend but ran out of time to do my airdog and sump. It always seems to be the boss lady has stuff for me to do when I want to work on my truck so yet again I'm only left with Sunday to play. was a pretty straight forward install on the injectors seeing as my day job is a diesel tech so was a walk in the park for me. Had them in and set the overhead in about 2 hours. Truck runs awesome, but I'm glued to my FP gauge and getting on it obviously the pressure was dropping more than I liked. Drive it nice and it stayed right around 10 psi. Still I needed to install the airdog just was waiting for the weekend to come. I gather…

I was under the truck today for other reasons and turns out my slave cylinder is leaking! I know they're easy to replace, and relatively cheap at NAPA, but has anyone else had this happen? Seems so strange for the slave to start leaking, but then again the truck is mad it's been sitting...

Well thinking my VP44 died during injector install. Background; Truck 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9 with 302K miles, DS Power puck, and FASS DDRP-02 that delivers 17.5 psi at idle and 15 psi at WOT. I replaced my tappet cover gasket about two months ago and needed to remove the VP44 at the time, looked at the data plate, and thought I took a picture of it, but didn't. It looked to be the original VP44, didn't notice and rebuild information. Restart went as expected bleed the system, cranked several time fired and ran fine. Then about a couple weeks ago, I decided to install a set of Bosch RV275 injectors. Install went as expected, torqued hold down bolts to 89 i…

hey guys I'm having an problem with my vacuum hose its all the way broken and now my cruise control stopped working and the ac is only blowing out of the defrost. i know this is coming from one of the vacuum hose just have and hard time trying to fix it or finding where i could get an replacement without having to go to the dealer cause we all know they are rip offs... any info would be helpful I'm in texas as the summer is here and its about to get hot...

Now I know this has been covered a lot, but no one could ever really answer the question I have. Figured I'd ask here since we have our own oil expert on board. I know the change interval in the manual says 7500mi. My situation in a bit different being my truck only sees ~ 5000 mi. a year. It is a work truck and I usually only use it to pull trailers and haul. It does not see a lot of highway driving either. I use Rotella 15-w40 and change twice a year or every 2500 mi. Can I change only 1 time a year and be safe? Should I go to synthetic if I only change once a year? Our mech at work is old school and still believes in the 3 month 3000 mi. thing. Some of the vans there m…

Hello everyone.. I'm lost and hope someone has experienced this before!! Bought a rollover truck and came with half ton body. Swapped body and pcm. Original chassis and engine wiring.. Knew vp44 was shitty before swap.. Tried to start it anyway.. No dice.. So a known good vp was installed. Truck still wouldnt start.. Shows batt voltage at the plug with it plugged in and cranking or not... Cut wires off plug, hot wired truck 6/7 pins while plug still connected.. No start.. Unplug the connector and hotwire truck fires right up.. Seems like something is keeping the truck off in the computer.. Shut off wire blue with red already cut off too... Help!!!!

Ok building a nv4500 and am wondering about the fifth gear nut is there a proven fix for it that dont require welding it? Or is one better of to leave it alone

I should get my 01 running this weekend. It's been sitting 11 months without any fuel and jacked up. (I was in process of upgrading fuel system and other things in life got in the way) Fuel was bought couple months before I perked it. So fuel (25 gallons) is over 1 year old and was stored in 5 gallon plastic cans in car port. And I also changed fuel tanks. Installing an Air Dog 100 and a carter pump as a back up, fuel has been cycled through filters probably 2 or 3 times. The "new to me" fuel tank not as clean as my old one (but no more sump and I'll never have one again) Because "new" tank still has stuff in it even after getting as clean as I could…

Do new fan clutches need time to "break in?" I got a new one Sunday night and it still hasn't unlocked by today so I took it back and got another. The new one hasn't unlocked today either so I'm not sure if I just need to give it some time or go get another.

As the title states, I while installing my Wicked Wheel on my HX35W I snapped the tip of the shaft off getting it tight. I know the instructions say to get it hand tight but it was seized and would not spin freely at all. The tighter I got it the looser it got and spun a little more freely until it snapped. It's for a 99 manual truck. I'm not trying to buy anything that's not genuine, I would buy just the center piece but my exhaust housing has been rusted to the point where it will not budge and I need to clock it for the compound turbo setup.

I have a 01 cummins was in a hurry this morning went to pass Someone and covered the road in smoke. Truck is bone stock straight piped.

Since I blew my serp belt I've noticed I'm dripping some oil spots. Maybe the overheated situation caused some kind of change to the gaskets? Any ideas?

hi y'all, I am about to check out a non-running 2001. Seller claims that vp44 is bad. It has a swapped 56 block together with a 5 speed with around 150k. I am wondering how would I be able to tell the health of the engine, as apparently test drive is not possible. Or, should this truck be absolutely avoided?

Does anyone know of a set of airbags that will work on a 99 2500 4wd that mount over the axle not the leaf springs (so I can keep my over loads) and they need to work with a goose neck or fifth wheel mount.

Hey guys I hope you can answer a simple (hopefully) question. Lately I've noticed my pressures dropping on my DDRP. I did some research and didn't realize there is the infamous ball and spring pressure relief in that model as well. So I stretched the spring out a 1/4 inch like most recommend and now my pressures are pretty high. At idle I'm around 24 psi and 17 at WOT. Is 24 psi too high for idle or is it OK? The ball looked to be in great shape unlike some of the deformed pics I've seen. Thanks in advance. D

My old trans had 350k and still had good detent between gears, let go of shifter and it still had spring in it in other words. It just didnt wont to stay in 5th gear. So I find a rebuild shop in San Antonio, 975 bucks, said a lot of new parts didnt come out and say what new parts, but anyway. I get it home and the first thing I do is open the fill plug and have a look see. Well I should have stopped at the sludge on the in side of the plug and took it back, but NOOOO I keep going, take the plastic cap off where the shift tower goes and there is more paint on the in side than there is on the out, and a little more sludge. I am thinking I should call the SOB, well he's clos…

Is there a way to look at smog test results and figure out what an "up grade" would do to a smog test? Like injectors for example, anyway using math to "guessimate" what a new smog test would be? I would hate to buy some upgrade stuff and then fail smog test. The state (WA) I'm in uses the "transparity" test I'm told. Also found out my truck has been licensed as "gasoline powered" for long time. Maybe that's the reason several smog tests ago, the guy looking at his smog machine said to bring RPM's up to 3,000. Believe it or not, the license people can't change the title back to diesel by looking at VIN or lifting hood and seeing the big words across th…