2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Howdy guys, Paps truck is down and I'm currently 1600 Miles from either him or the truck. So we could use y'alls assistance. Rig specs: 1999 Dodge 3500 NV4500 4x4 with 3 year old Timbos APPS Truck was running fine, then it started to high idle on startup to about 1100 RPM (He doesn't have a high idle kit) no delay, it just went straight to 1100. Then a day or two later he started it up to find it also had dead pedal stuck at 1100RPM (in a Walmart parking lot lol (Thank heavens for Torque!!!)) He did some research on the issue, and decided to try and reset the apps doing the 30 minute battery disconnect thing and then pumping the thro…

Ok guys as y'all know I'm looking to ditch my nv 5600 and go to a nv4500 I've been looking for a build able 4500 but ain't had no luck yet, so I if I was to have to buy a re man where the best place, of course cpp is a deff no, ats I will never be able to afford, and I'm reading lots of bad reviews on all state gear, standard trans Blumenthal, Midwest trans and just about every one of them

My radiator cap has green sludge around it. Any ideas? Oil is normal

This is my first post to this forum. I have 98 24valve that had a fuel leak on top of the fuel filter heater. I fixed the fuel leak, reprimed the filter and fired for two seconds then died. I cracked the injector lines to get the air out of the lines and have fuel to all of the injectors. The truck will still not fire, acts like it wants to start but won't. I have good fuel pressure to the pump and no codes until switching relays. Codes 1688 and 1689 came up only after playing with relays. Any help would be appreciated.

What size is the TORX bit to pull that cover? I replaced my VP44 last year and have yet to put the stealth cover back on. I would like to, but I lost the TORX bit that came with the plate. I need to go out and procure one, I understand that the pumps come with the TORX heads that have the "security" piece in the center.

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two…

How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the dr…

So I bought the filter kit for the fast coolers buddy has the other style of filter the yarn filter. Is there any problems with running two filters or is that wrong.

Yeap... The old VP44 gave up. Timing is stuck in full advancement rattle very hard and very little power. P0216 code is present. I pulled the Quadzilla and still present so I know the problem it's not Quadzilla related. It hits a state of limp mode won't power more than 40 MPH. At times it will clear up and run well then the timing goes back to full advancement pull the power way down. I did make it home but very slow ride. I can say without a doubt the Quadzilla only reports commanded timing, not actual timing. Time to make some calls to DAP in the morning...

I installed a new fuel system i.e. Erics full Big Line kit but when attempting to bleed the air it took all my strength with a 19 mm wrench (big wrench) and I could not get any of them to loosen. I had to bleed the main feed to the injection pump and it fired right up. Now if/ when I need to loosen an injection line in the future it seems the 19mm nut will strip before loosening. It had to be the dealer that installed the in tank pump and new VP44 that over tightened them. Any tricks out there before I strip a nut or ruin a high pressure line? Thanks in advance.

Gents and ladies, This is my first post on any forum ever but I figured mopar mans forum would be the best. I'm really stuck on what's happening with my truck and it's so annoying because I just got it running beautifully not too long ago. I will start off with some back ground of the truck and the problem. Its a 2001 with about 210k miles, 2wd, automatic trans, bhaf air filter, 4 inch straight pipe, and until recently (I took it off thinking maybe it was causing my issues) an old quadzilla adrenaline that replaced my super chips (I say old because it is one of the first boxes made and I got it used, had the big power resistor replaced, then tested at qua…

I'm placing a filter on the frame but have two choices, one is 60 gallon per hour and other is 90 gph pre filters to remove sediment and water before entering a new Raptor 150. Being that the 60 gph filter is shorter I need to know if that is adequate on a stock truck. There is conflicting information on the 5.9's requirements all over the net. Sorry Mike, I know you said 90gph before but, I'm just hoping for any degree of clearance under there and with info on the net the way it is, well.... Update: I just ran my other truck without the 60 GPH filter it has always had, its a 12 valve, to see how much effect it has on restriction (fuel pressure). T…

Simple question...are exhaust brakes hard on head gaskets or other downsides to them?

I've got to say Thank You to a member sending my his damaged ECM for study purpose. I know you'll come forward to acknowledge this. I figured for the sake of knowledge of the ECM why not document as much as I can for other to learn. I can say without a doubt the circuit board is mylar and securely glued to the aluminum case. It's a single sided solder setup but it double sided tracers. MEMORY - Toshiba TC55257DFI-70L (256k CMOS SRAM 32k X 8) FLASH MEMORY- Intel AB28F400BR-B80 (4-Mbit (256K X 16, 512K X 8) Smartvoltage Boot Block Flash Memory. Access Speed 80 NS) PROCESSOR - Motorola SC416652GMFT20 - 68336 Family - 20 Mhz Frequency …

'01 2500 Buddy bought the truck from our company. He thought it had a leaky pan gasket. It threw down a good puddle last night in the shop. It's coming from the vicinity of the oil line on the vacuum pump where it goes into the block. I replaced the seal in the pump 2 years ago and it doesn't seem to be leaking from there. I didn't have time to put a wrench on it so I'm hoping it's just a loose fitting- but it doesn't look it's coming from the fitting or the hose. You can see a nice clean strip down the block underneath it. Anyone else run into a leak in this area? He just had the head gasket done but it was leaking before …

Hi this is my first post on this site so please bare with me I have a 2002 Dodge Ram Cummins 1 ton 6 speed manual it idles at 1000-1200 rpm with the engine hot or cold the only mods are a banks big hoss tuner and banks air intake I just replaced all six injectors, the lift pump, the cam sensor i've also checked the apps sensor with a multi meter and a scan tool the truck is not showing any codes other than a faulty air intake heater relay I'm not sure what to try next

I'll be working alone with full tank on this new to me truck I just bought. It has an in tank pump that I need change to frame mounted Raptor 150, also changing to 1/2'' draw and fuel lines. I want to tilt the bed to get at everything. Is it best to raise the driver side or raise the front like a dump bed? If I raise the front it looks like it might hit the cab before it goes high enough so should I tilt bed sideways instead? Thanks in advance.

Excuse my haphazard post if this has already by discussed, but I felt that it would be something us guys with older trucks would care about. That being the introduction of CK-4 oil replacing CJ-4. Apparently its an issue for Ford whereby they claim accelerated wear in their engines with this new oil. Anyone have any experience or knowledge of what this new CK-4 classification is all about.....or why it was introduced? I dont care other than I dont want my "older" engine to wear out for sake of environmentalism.

So I installed a tc lockup switch last night, and I'm not sure where I went wrong. I followed the tst website link but it doesn't seem to work. My truck junction box looks a little different than the one in his schematic but I'm pretty sure I did it right. Here is what the truck is doing. First, with overdrive off, I'll get the truck to second gear, and flip the switch on, and nothing different happens. It'll shift up to next gear as I increase speed. Then I can come to a full stop and the truck doesn't want to stall or anything. Or I can be cruising at 35, and punch it and he truck will downshift. The only thing that seems to be different is if switch is off, …

My truck is due for emissions so I removed my edge comp. When I started the truck the CEL came on and I have a P0237 code. It will not clear. I plugged the factory MAP sensor plug into the sensor and no change. I drove it around and it it runs and drives fine, no smoke. After driving it a bit the CEL went out but the code is still there (both pending and confirmed). I pulled up the "Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure" pid on my scan tool and that value seems accurate and responds to driving. I am going to go out and see if I can determine the voltage...maybe pull the MAP sensor. Any other ideas?