2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well found out the hard way on my way in to work this morning that when the fuel gauge says 1/4 tank it really means empty?. Never ran it down much past half always keep it topped up but was running late so I figured I'd stop for fuel tonight on my way home. No such luck. I was literally 4 blocks from my shop when it just shut off. Was like what the?? Tried restarting, bumping the key to check if lift pump runs. Check sooo made the embarrassing call to the shop had a tech come with some fuel to get me to the shop. I ain't gonna hear the end of this from my guys for awhile lol.

Ok guys, I'm lost with this issue. Every now and then (very, very random issue) the truck will die when I push the clutch in and give me codes P1691, P0121, and P1693. Here's where it gets weird. Sometimes, the truck will rev up to 2k rpm by itself and die, giving me all three codes listed above. Other times, it will just die, and only give me the P1691 and P1693 codes. And then, it has been known to rev up by itself when I am shifting, but when I complete the shift, it starts acting normally again. Every time this happens, after about 1-3 minutes max with the key off, the truck will reset itself and start right up. Until then, you can turn it over but it wil…

So I'm installing a new exhaust manifold (you'd be surprised how many issues you can run into doing this simple job) and this is what I find. Is this enough oil for me to be concerned?

01 24v would loose throttle and surge going down road so checked ac voltage and no issues there so put scanner on it and watched the graph and it was freaking out for Tps. So checked temp and it also freaks out on the graph on scanner when throttle cuts out. Went to install new apps and either no voltage at pin or reads 4.6 v on new sensor started truck and goes wide open

Does anyone know what that's about and what to do? It goes back to normal for a short while after a battery disconnect. Thanks in advance

I'd like to hear some thoughts on parts i'm going to be ordering soon. My exhaust manifold is cracked and my muffler has a good rattle and I'd like an exhaust brake for towing and to a lesser extent service brake life. Truck is a 1999 24v 5speed longbox. 1) I would prefer the the turbo mount exhaust brake but I may do a small turbo upgrade in the future which from my reading means I'll need to have the remote mount brake. So i'm thinking the BD remote brake. 2) I'm leaning towards this exhaust manifold. Price seems good and I've heard good things. DAP T3 with EGT probe bung and comes with gaskets and hardware. https://dieselautopower.com/diesel-au…

Hi, I'm new and wanted to say I'm grateful for such knowledge that I have been reading on here. So I have a weird issue I need help with.. I have an 01 with a stage 5 trans and it is out of warranty but still functioning fine. I recently replaced my trans cooler and ever since I have been have a issue with the truck downshifting from 3rd gear to 1st when I come to a stop light or sign. I have the upgraded GM gov pressure solenoid and have replaced it along with the transducer and no change. Changed fluid and filter no change. Pulled my alternator fuse, no change. The only other symptom is the truck will want to start out in 3rd gear until trans fluid is warm. Also replac…

My Dana 70 has no build tag wanting to have right rebuild parts Can anyone give me info on where I can find my info. The tag on the clove box says Dana 70/2

Truck will not start. Turn the ignition switch and nothing. Have power to everything else. New starter, batteries, no codes checked fuses, changed starter relay in PDC. Happened last week and had the starter retested and put it back in and it started right up! I have gremlins. Looking for suggestions. Thanks!

Becareful who you let build your nv5600 sence mine failed I've manage to get it pulled out, had metal in the oil, pulled the tail housing and found that unit was built with worn out parts, the main shaft nut was put on with a chisel and almost broked and not tight, this unit came from cummins performance parts i got took dont let this happen to you

Howdy guys, Paps truck is down and I'm currently 1600 Miles from either him or the truck. So we could use y'alls assistance. Rig specs: 1999 Dodge 3500 NV4500 4x4 with 3 year old Timbos APPS Truck was running fine, then it started to high idle on startup to about 1100 RPM (He doesn't have a high idle kit) no delay, it just went straight to 1100. Then a day or two later he started it up to find it also had dead pedal stuck at 1100RPM (in a Walmart parking lot lol (Thank heavens for Torque!!!)) He did some research on the issue, and decided to try and reset the apps doing the 30 minute battery disconnect thing and then pumping the thro…

Ok guys as y'all know I'm looking to ditch my nv 5600 and go to a nv4500 I've been looking for a build able 4500 but ain't had no luck yet, so I if I was to have to buy a re man where the best place, of course cpp is a deff no, ats I will never be able to afford, and I'm reading lots of bad reviews on all state gear, standard trans Blumenthal, Midwest trans and just about every one of them

My radiator cap has green sludge around it. Any ideas? Oil is normal

This is my first post to this forum. I have 98 24valve that had a fuel leak on top of the fuel filter heater. I fixed the fuel leak, reprimed the filter and fired for two seconds then died. I cracked the injector lines to get the air out of the lines and have fuel to all of the injectors. The truck will still not fire, acts like it wants to start but won't. I have good fuel pressure to the pump and no codes until switching relays. Codes 1688 and 1689 came up only after playing with relays. Any help would be appreciated.

What size is the TORX bit to pull that cover? I replaced my VP44 last year and have yet to put the stealth cover back on. I would like to, but I lost the TORX bit that came with the plate. I need to go out and procure one, I understand that the pumps come with the TORX heads that have the "security" piece in the center.

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two…

How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the dr…

So I bought the filter kit for the fast coolers buddy has the other style of filter the yarn filter. Is there any problems with running two filters or is that wrong.

Yeap... The old VP44 gave up. Timing is stuck in full advancement rattle very hard and very little power. P0216 code is present. I pulled the Quadzilla and still present so I know the problem it's not Quadzilla related. It hits a state of limp mode won't power more than 40 MPH. At times it will clear up and run well then the timing goes back to full advancement pull the power way down. I did make it home but very slow ride. I can say without a doubt the Quadzilla only reports commanded timing, not actual timing. Time to make some calls to DAP in the morning...

I installed a new fuel system i.e. Erics full Big Line kit but when attempting to bleed the air it took all my strength with a 19 mm wrench (big wrench) and I could not get any of them to loosen. I had to bleed the main feed to the injection pump and it fired right up. Now if/ when I need to loosen an injection line in the future it seems the 19mm nut will strip before loosening. It had to be the dealer that installed the in tank pump and new VP44 that over tightened them. Any tricks out there before I strip a nut or ruin a high pressure line? Thanks in advance.