2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I should be hopping on the dyno this weekend (As long as my brother doesn't blow up his 05 first) Couple of questions: Anyone have any thoughts on which level for a smarty only run? Any thoughts on which level for a smarty + TST run? And for the fun part! Guessing Give your guess for: Smarty only and smarty + TST My sig is up to date!

I'm planning on some 75hp or 100hp injectors for the future. Are there any upgrades for the HX35 that will make a difference or should I plan on replacing the turbo as well?

Ok guys. I know this one has been hit before but I am having a hard time finding the old threads on it. My question is this. What fluid should I use? Is a new gasket required when putting the cover back on? Do I need any additive do go with the fluid? I dont believe I have limited slip. One tire will spin freely on slick surfaces anyway. This is on my 01 ram 2500. Dana 80 rear end with 3.55's. Thanks for any tips!!

Last night, was driving around doing errands and suddenly a voice told me look at your fuel pressure. Pressure was at 12psi and kept an eye on it. Would stay steady at this pressure driving around but was ready to shut her down If needed. Guess the filter replacement didn't Fox my problem. Got home waited to clear the ecu and bump stated it. Pump sounded like it was dying! Guess I'm going to be calling airdog in the morning for a replacement! Shoot, first one went 9 months, this time almost 3 years...

My county currently does not require emission testing for renewals each year. But they are talking about it now. Should I be worried or has anyone had problems with the test.

Anyone running one of these?

I have a Fass ddrp 95 thats three years old and I know low pressure is a sign the lift pump is failing. What are other signs? Mine in the last three months has not come on upon start up 4 times and stopped once just after pulling onto street. I have turn it off and on a couple times to it to go. Filters are 2 -3 months old pressure is down a couple psi but it usually is in the winter when it is cold.

What's the skinny on BC? yea, nay?

Yeah I got a a weird one. I had a truck come to the shop with a dead injection pump (P1688 and P1689). It got a new Injection pump and lift pump from Vulcan Performance. After getting it running the WAIT TO START light is stuck ON even while driving. The grid heater are cycling as normal and canceling out either by time or by speed. I've done my AC noise check on the alternator and it was .260 at the highest. So the alternator was replaced and the new one is floating about .040 which is OK. But still got a stuck WAIT TO START. I check all the wiring for loose connection or pinched wires. I even call a local computer expert and they are stumped.

I have an appointment at the Dodge Dealership Saturday to get the high idle feature enabled. They said it will cost 55.00. The sound about right to you guys?

I know there are tidbits buried all through this site for 'doing this, doing that' to get the most out of the fuel dollar.. Is there a way to compile a trouble shoot- flow chart to guide a diy'er to systematically go through the entire system? especially when something has changed, or is getting worse.. Maybe start with the basics; from engine health, electronic health, driveline health (and of course driver mental health) ... which could have actual measurable values.. and where to start looking, measuring. Then go even further with member tried and true 'mods' that have helped. A…

As topic states, my fuel keeps gelling when temps dip below zero and I am already using super-tech two stroke @ 1oz/gal. What do I need to be checking???

Back in 07 I bought a PF100 for an 01 24v that I had. In less than a year I was on my 3rd pump, (all covered under warranty). The first one burnt its self out due to being restricted, the second one quit due to a cheap o-ring that shrunk in the cold weather allowing the pump to suck air. The 3rd pump seemed to work alright but by then the blue fuel lines had started to show dry rot cracks. I ended up selling the truck not to long after that so I wasnt able to really put the pump to the test. To those who have and are currently running an Airdog, have you experienced an issues? A few weeks ago I picked up a basically stock 02 24v and have been looking for lift pump rep…

What do your guys's trucks do when you stab the throttle from idle? Yes I know I shouldn't do this but I'm wondering if what mine is doing is normal. Does yours just ramp up without any sort of hickup??

Were these ON-OFF only, (Batt voltage) or did they put in a variable concession for different loads? *vp 44's*

With all of the talk about alternating current causing electrical damage has anyone researched or tried to purchase the diodes for the alternator and rebuild it themselves?

Morning All, I finial bit the bullet and picked up a gauge kit (trans, boost and pyro) and other goodies from http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ most of its straight forward, but i have a question about drilling the manifold for the pyro, who has drilled and tapped the hole with out removing the turbo? also, is there a standard paint number for matching the gray trim? thanks (truck is a 99 2500 auto)

Well, the Cardone unit I put in 18 months ago is leaking like a sieve. The output shaft is loose. I noticed it was pretty wet when dismantling the front end last week. After disconnecting the pitman arm link, I can wiggle the shaft about 1/4 inch, and fluid is pouring out. Anyone recommend a GOOD rebuilder? In the Rockauto site, the "Lares Corp" unit has a little 'heart', meaning it's popular. (cheapest too) Should I try that one? They offer ATSCO, Cardone, ACdelco, and Mopar rebuilt.

Pulling the trigger this week on my transmission build. I've been looking at valve bodies, and was wondering what the difference if any there is between ATS and BD? Also looking at rebuild kits, and looking for suggestions. I'm picking up a used 47re for the valve body core exchange and to build then swap to decrease truck down time, and while its on the bench figured I'd go through it so I know whats going back into the truck. Plan for the truck is right around 475 horse. Other parts I'm considering are a Mag Hytech tranny pan, ATS input shaft, and BD low stall torque converter. I only want to do this once. I'm open to suggestions.

Ive done dozens of them but decided to buy the gould kit to have the tooling and it actually comes with two seal kits. I actually learned a couple tricks from the dvd that i didnt know before. Any oil resistant rtv will work. Ive used grey, black, red and blue. Never had any leak