2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

O.K. so I'm chasing a hard start issue and apparently a little air leak seems to be the kryptonite to the mighty Cummins. Everyone says replace sealing washers, connector tube O-rings and the return T. In my searching I've found many don't know where to get the parts and when they find out they come from Cummins they don't know the part numbers. I got on Cummins quick serve which I found difficult to navigate and finally found the parts and #'s, and added them to my cart. Trying to check out all I got was some Java bla,bla,bla message. I'm no IT guy and you should not have to be to use a website. I found out they have a central warehouse 50 mi. from me so I called them di…

I'm having a problem again with torque converter lockup I think. Symptoms are different though. I can be driving 70 and for a split second its like it misses then goes back to normal. Sometimes at 30-40 trans shifts back and forth. When this started I got an apps code cleared it and did the apps reset but didn't accomplish anything. The alternator I had rebuilt the first time was putting out 0.1v ac but now it jumps from 0.12 to 0.34 so I know that's a problem. I borrowed a snap-on verus to do some diag and I get a p1693 fault in companion module. There are no other codes showing up and I can't clear this one. I've cleaned all grounds and connections. Any ideas?

Is there a axle type identifier on the Dana axles? I need to order parts and want to know what I have. Not listed on my original sales invoice.

I was moving Hay Rolls yesterday and when on the freeway I could hear a rattle kind of like a gasser pinging under heavy throttle. When I reached the top of the hill the rattle stopped. I was running 55-6- mph. I am curious wondering about Injectors. I run 2 cycle oil from Wallmart @10z. per gallon but I filled up at the half tank mark but did not add the @ cycle oil. Could this be causing the pinging/ rattle? Or might I need to adjust the valves. Theres 202K on the clock.

This might seem like a stupid question but I would rather ask it than suffer a bad out come. I understand if you disconnect the batteries completely, you have to then reset the APPS when you connect the batteries back up… Yes, No??? If I want to clean the terminals, do I lose battery power if I only do one terminal at a time on one battery while leaving the other one hooked up?

Put my 2001, 47re with 2nd gear lock up to the test this past weekend. My rig with 5r weighs 17,600 lb. I navigated parts of the 6% Grapevine canyon on I-5. The trans worked flawlessly. On grades I would lock into 2nd push her up to 2000 rpm and flip the torque converter lockup switch. The oil would heat to 210f while pushing up to 2000rpm. After lockup trans oil cooled to 180, eng temp, and stay there. The grade and load took all the 235hp at 2700rpm I had with skinny pedal flat on the floor. Going down same grades decelerating, I had the same result. Just love that mod. Strongly endorse the 2nd gear lock up mod.-

I had my vp44 out and re-installed it. About 1k later, I developed a fuel leak from the bottom of the VP 44 where the #1 injection line is connected. I have tried to tighten it up, but it doesn't want to seal. I haven't lost prime and the truck runs good, but leaks quite a bit. Any suggestions on how to make this seal up?

I got a rusted one today thank got it went in my driveway in the morning before I went anyway Now did anyone do this ? the one went bad is right under the exhaust manifold and contacted the local cummisn dealer with an engine serial number etc and they said I must make sure I have three of the same size right under the exhaust manifold ? Can anyone help here ? I plan on taking the exhaust manifold off and replace all three if there is actually three but before I take anything off I like to have parts on hand.

My left front axle is leaking on my 4x4. Is this a fix for the faint of heart? As I understand the left is a lot harder than the right. Any idea what a shop would charge? Should I plan on other things while stuff is off?

my air dog and it will hold pressure but when on the throttle hard it losses a lot of psi and goes below 5 and sometimes 0. But when at 75mph it sits at 10 psi but hit the throttle it goes down. Could it be the ball and spring stuck slightly? Thinking it is taking a crap on me and was wondering what to buy next another air dog or go with fass or a mechanical pump? Money is not to tight right now but with it being my DD I don't want to be down this winter sitting on the side of the road when it goes out. If mechanical pump would I be able to use the air dog filters down on the frame still?

I just had my NV4500 rebuilt and installed it with the bell housing on, put on the slave cylinder, clutch felt a little loose go to put into gear and it will not go into gear Clutch goes almost to floor before I feel pressure What could have been misaligned ? I felt the splines go in, and the drive shay would turn, etc Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks

I just remembered I had a weird thing happen and can't explain nor has it occured again. While I was towing my traveel trailer this last trip I had my cruise set for 55 MPH cruising towards Emmett, ID. It was really strange it was like someone lifting and stomping the throttle in a really jerky up down random cycle. Now remember I'm a fly by wire system no vacuum motor cruise. As for error codes there is none I check while driving (Scan Gauge II). As for the APPS sensor it shows 0 while cruise is active there is no signal (Scan Gauge II). I tested my alternator noise once I got to Emmett, ID and it was a normal 0.023 to 0.027 AC volts. After being shut down for the night …

I am getting tired of listening to my squeaky clutch pedal Every time I depress the clutch it is like fingernails on a chalk board. A few months back I put some 3 in 1 oil around the pin that the pedal pivots on, but that was short lived. Do I have to disassemble the assembly to adequatly lube this? Someone has to have a trick to share.

Well again I lost my starter fuse at the worst time. Grrr! Ok don't panic we know the drill. I created a temp fuse from a aluminum twist tie. Got it start hitched up the RV and kept it running. On my way home I made a call to Lindy and let him know I'm going to pick up a starter. So on my way into McCall I picked up a starter and a fuse. So I kept it running and towed the RV home and unhitched. Still kept it running then bolted for Lindy's shop. So I grabbed the bay and proceeded to pull it out till I was getting burnt on the last bolt. Time to let it cool off. Long story short I got the starter out and the solenoid cover lost its 3 screw and the plunger was hanging out. …

I've been dealing with ever increasing gear searching. Cleaned both ends of my main battery cables and shazam, all is good. They were not that dirty. Kinda think the connections at the batteries were the problem. And they were not that bad. And so easy to access compared to the ones on the block. I'll probably start cleaning those more often and I'd done one at a time, no having to re-calibrate the TPS. If in doubt, clean your negative cables!

Hot summer day and the wife take the truck to the store, Her car was in my shop getting a hvac fan motor. She calls me up an hour later, "the truck wouldn't start". I drive over with the shops work van and put the scan tool on. Code p0230 transfer pump circuit out of range, running a Fuel Boss pump with back up electric pump so no big deal. I clear the code and try to start. The engine turns over not real fast and no start. O'k wife is hot could care less about doing diagnostics and wants to go home. I have it towed to the shop and put the wife back in her Volvo. An hour later I turn the key and it starts up with the check engine light on. It's the dreaded p1689 NO C…

Drove my truck off the end of my drive way, got it stuck and got out to see what I could do. It just cut off and will not start. It did loose a little oil from a cooler line. Any ideas? Is there a extreme angle cut off?

I have a 1999 dodge 3500 1 ton cummins. I would like to add an EGT gauge. The problem is that at one time the exhaust manifold cracked. The PO had it welded ( it apprears they did a good job). The weld is right through the center of where the recommended spot is to drill and tap for the probe. Is there an alternate location where the probe could be located? I really don't know if I want to take the chance of drilling where the crack was.

333K on truck, tyranny rebuilt by dodge at 70K; its starting to show its age. 1qt of fluid every 200 miles, shudders on the 2-3 up shift. I tow a 25' travel trailer and a 5 ton equipment trailer with mini excavator and a single car trailer with my RX2. Budget is the limiting factor, figure 3K max

I need to clean my connections in hopes of improved automatic transmission shifting. I am wondering about the use of dynalectric grease on connections followed by that red battery connection aerosol spray to keep connections sealed.