2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have been restoring a flood truck since last December, the water line was a couple inches into the cab. The vehicle runs and drives, I have since gotten a salvage restored title and it is my daily driver. Through all the many fixes on my vehicle I have had some creeping intermittent boost drop/dead pedal/bucking surging mostly when moving from lower speeds. When I am heavy on the accelerator it seems to be much less apparent. I have put at least 200 hours into the truck this year and have had many components taken out and reattached so anything is fair game when it comes to explaining the issues I am dealing with. The main question I ha…

Well onto the next item to fix...what appears to be a head gasket problem . I'm extremely certain that my issue is in fact a bad H.G. but I took a short video so you all can see what I see. The video was taken right after shutdown on a hot engine. What caught my attention, initially, was the upper radiator hose becoming quite firm upon squeezing it at operating temperature. For what it's worth, I had gotten some air into the system (changed the thermostat and radiator cap/went on a short drive up to operating temperature). I cant imagine these bubbles have anything to do with air being bled out on its' own? I did park the truck nose up and burped the system the best…

Like title says, I have about 4-5 psi at idle and 0 at WOT. I used a gauge that I connected at the VP44. Does this mean new lift pump? Injection pump?

Ok guys im building my nv4500 and the updated mainshaft uses the split 3 piece washer on the fifth gear but when i put the nut on the outer ring of the washer stays loose is this normal or is there a spacific nut i need

Hello I have a 2001 that is cutting power at random. When it looses power it is off and on real quick. The rpms tps and speed stay constant. The only way I’ve got it to stop is to unplug the speed sensor on the rear end and since I’ve done that hasn’t happened since. I replaced that sensor. When it’s plugged in the problem comes back. I have a IQuad V2. On the I quad the speed is all over the place the factory speed seems to read correctly. When the truck cuts out the IQuad speed reads 140+ when in reality I’m going 30 mph according to the dash. I’ve seen it jump up to over 70 when the truck is idling in 1st gear. I’ve also completely disconnected the IQuad and the truck …

I’m new to the forums and would appreciate any help. Just purchased a 2001 Ram 2500. It has a mild case of previous owner syndrome that I’m trying to correct. Most of the wiring issues have been pretty straightforward but there’s one in the engine bay that I need some advise on. It appears that the Org\Blk leaving the ECM has been tied directly to ground, effectively eliminating intake air heater relay 2. Anyone venture a guess on why someone would do this? here’s a pic of the wire. https://imgur.com/BtAmNmw

Hello everyone I have a question that hopefully you all know the answer to. I recently got my trans rebuilt by a shop with a full manual valve body extra clutches and a upgraded front band apply lever. It also got a new TC. After that it made a trip 800 miles pulling a 78 f150 and all seemed fine (I know it was stupid on my part to do that). Long story short I got back home and stupid me stalled it in 1st gear TC locked. I dident think anything of it at the time but after that it felt like whenever the TC was locked no load and driving it would rapidly engage and disengage. It had enough of it about 100 miles later and while just driving in normal conditions (not beating …

Ok looking for some advice. Ok, so I bought a 99 dodge several months ago. The engine has been swapped out for an 02 engine and computer. The internal tone wheel had been retrofitted to the front of the balancer. For several months the truck had a p1690 code. I did all the checks on this page and everything checked out fine. I finally got it to go away by rotating the tone wheel 180 degrees on the balancer and the code is no more. Worked good for about an hour, than I got a code for p0216 accompanied by the dead pedal. Truck has always had a lopey inconsistent miss at idle. Even after the p1690 code was fixed. I can Ho…

2002 24V w/Auto Trans. All Stock. The past 2 weeks have been riddled with an intermittent Check Engine Light, Erratic shifting and a Voltage gauge going from just over 14V down to nothing, triggering a Check Gauges warning light, then within seconds the gauge climbs to 12-13V and the Check Gauges light goes out. The intermittently flashing CEL usually coincides with erratic shifting and hunting of the lockup converter or what feels like clutch/band slippage in auto tranny. Started with checking the batteries (Good), checked the Field wires from PCM to Alernator and the PCM was not sending signal (Dark Blue wire). Continuity test of the dark blue and the green wir…

1999 ram 3500 24v auto low miles 4x4 long bed ext cab has issues shift out of foray into second I can rev up the truck all the way but struggled to shift into 2nd truck also has very low acceleration turbo spools but almost seems like there’s no boost no big leaks or blockages need help

Anyone ever used or heard of these? Was looking for a cummins 180 Thermostat down here in Vegas for creeping around slow in the desert. Ebay link

Seems like after a drive I tend to trigger a po1690. I have no noticable issues. I changed out my cam position sensor in case my old one was bad it didnt seem to change anything. New one still popping a cell light. I have a 2001 24v so no crank position sensor on my truck. Truck runs fine with or without the cel just not sure what to do to get it to go away. Fuel pressure is 16psi with an air dog.

Hey guys, recently while I’m in traffic I’ve been having a voltage Drop and temperature spike. I’m in Las Vegas and daily temps are 100°+. I just fixed a vacuum leak on my 4x4 actuator which was causing excessive oil to come out of the crank case breather. Do y’all think this might be related because of oil getting on the pulleys and I just need to clean them up and swap the belt or should I start looking in a different direction?

Well i'm back again with more issues, I've been away from the internet recently as the truck has kept me very busy reinstalling the interior and finishing up the turbo/exhaust install. However my truck has been doing very good the last few days with no major issues (still leaking oil somewhere that I have not discovered yet, or possibly PS fluid). On the way home today my truck began to stutter like it was being starved of fuel and then it kick back on, if I get back into the pedal it happens again like it wants to die. No trouble codes and my fuel press read 15+psi under all conditions. I've replaced literally every sensor I can think of at this point (MAP, O…

Afternoon while replacing my head studs today to some ARPs I noticed some water in the head stud wells. It doesn't look like coolant as it's clear vs green and hardly mixed with oil. Of the 8 studs I've done two of them had this water in the hole. There is no real smell and is does have a slight viscosity but dries up like water would vs that "oily" feeling from coolant or oil. See the video of me using a clear straw to extract the liquid. I've read that our studs do not go into any water jackets, I've also read about finding condensation/some water while doing head studs but this seems a little much. The obvious answer is a head gasket but I'm not seeing any …

Hi everyone I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 and I am at a loss. This all started as a simple lift pump install and I put a fass 150 on and it went south from there and replaced the pcm and checked all the pdc fuses and relays. The only code i get is the p0232 and I’ve checked the voltage on the fuel shut off and I got nothing. I’ve replaced the fuel relay and I’ve noticed if you barely even touch it it starts clicking there and at the vp44. I bypassed the lift pump and the vp before and it ran fine so I don’t think it’s my vp. I’m just tired of running from one thing to another. Anything helps thanks in advance. Also got the p0230 code once but hasn’t came back

First of all thanks for taking the time to read this. I'm a long time lurker who has found a ton of useful info here. This may be a bit of a long post as I have a lot of info to relay. Truck: 98.5 24v with nv5600 manual trans. Replaced just about everything by now except the engine it self. To start with, several weeks ago my truck started charging slower and never showing more than about 13v. I replaced the alternator with no improvement then discovered the voltage regulator was not working. So I installed an external voltage regulator and everything worked great again. I have not seen any voltages over 14.3V even at full throttle. I did not insta…

Looking at some Bosch 0 432 193 635 injectors. They are in what appear to be Bosch boxes and sealed in yellow plastic bags. The numbers are stenciled (inked) on them. They are packed individually. Are the numbers supposed to be engraved or inked on these?. I am attaching 3 pictures.

Hi Guys. I have a ton of mechanical experience but very weak in electrical. I hate it. Bought a 1999 Cummins for my daughter that will be turning 16 in Sept ( she will be paying me back for the truck, lol ) and even with new batteries, if it sits for a week or more, the batteries drain to the point it will not start. I have tried to research this problem & have eliminated the seat belt modules are not the problem. What else could it be ? Any help would be much appreciated. On a side not, it also does what I think is a weird thing. Sometimes when you turn the key to the on position, the wait to start light doesn't come on & no matter how long…

Alright ladies and gentlemen just got done replacing my APPs or TPS sensor (whichever you go by) and I'm having WOT when touching the fuel pedal.... This is what I've done so far, when installing the new TPS I back probed the #3 pin (green wire) set the voltage to 0.55 at idle and 3.8 at WOT. After finishing under the hood I went inside the truck and calibrated the ECM by turning the key on (not starting) and slowly pressed the pedal to the floor and let the pedal back up slowly. Then hook up my scan tool up and made sure no codes were set, which there is none. Then I started the truck and as soon as I touch the pedal it goes to WOT. Double checked my calibrat…