2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

In my search for a better alternator i came across a post by ilya5903 on Cumminsforum.com about using a 2001-03 5.9 Durango 160 amp alternator. Today i hit Pull-a-Part and lucked out. They had 2 Durangos and one was a clean 02 5.9 with the factory alternator. $22 + $7 core. Had it tested on the way home and it works. Swapped the pulley and 15 minutes later its on. Definitely puts out more at idle than the stock 136 amp as i can now have all 3 air compressors, a/c, high blower, headlights and stereo on with truck at 800rpm in drive and had 13.9 volts. 14.2 at idle in drive with everything off. Factory pn 56029915AA. https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-pow…

Has problems when it's heated up or sometimes out of no where throttle body sensor goes to zero voltage randomly but then picks back up after hitting the gas a couple times also shuts off driving down the road when it's warmed up but starts back up right away lift pump is new so are the lines and the tps sensor is new also.I checked the fuel pressure and it's stays the same when driving. The rpms start jumping from 0 back to how much rpms you have back down to 0 then the truck dies but starts back up but then starts happening again

Hello all, This year is not a good year for my 24v. I have been having some issues with the 47re in the truck. It would sometimes seem like it would skip 1st gear so this past weekend I changed out the Gov sensor and transducer, but now I have no 1st gear even if shifted manually. I adjusted both bands to spec and trans seems to just glide into other gears. The atf was dark and had dark sludge on the magnet, but nothing excessive. Have the clutches burnt out? I'm at the point I may trade it in on a 2008 Ram 2500 with 6.7 and g56.. What do you guys think? Tim

Any one got an Idea was this could be? I hoping it's not anti-freeze. The truck sat for about 60 days without being started, it starts to burn off at about 400*F hoping its oil from cylinders from sitting.

I was driving to work this morning and the truck just shut off and will crank but not start. Fuel pressure is reading 15-17psi on gauge. Any help would be appreciated. I changed the VP 44 probably 50k ago.

Anyone running a resonator and muffler on there truck? Can you post a sound video both outside and inside the cab? I've been told Donaldson 40 inch M085421 or a M085171 then a 51 inch Donaldson M090544 or a M101182, then a 51 inch Nelson and even a Walker 21471. Anyone running one of these? I've even heard of the MBRP Quiet tone.

Hey guys, so ive done several good wiring go overs and I can't get my truck to start. I suspect now it could be the neutral safety switch, but I'm not sure at this point since the reverse lights come on when the truck is in reverse. I'm out of ideas here. EDIT: I pulled codes with the scan gauge and got po602, and po1689 Also can anyone tell me what this plug is for? I believe there is a purple and white wire on it. I think it's the CCD, but I don't remember now.

Went to dealer had my 1998.5 Dodge Cummins auto transmission flashed for 3 cylinder idle. Doesn’t work. Plugged in diagnostic tester. Air temp 10f, coolant 10f, speed 0, TPS 0%. Only other things to check is to ensure pickup is in park or neutral and brake is not on. It’s in park and the brake light aren’t on. Anything to check with parking or brake? Is there anything else I can check? Also tried with parking brake on. Also did the APPS reset leaving batteries disconnected for an hour

Long time reader first time poster. This is most likely my last resort since I've searched all I could to find out the issue. My truck has never boosted correctly since I got it. I'm running a V2 tune from on this forum and it's been great until I get to 22psi. Then that's all she's got. My boost gauge just sits there. And that's with my foot to the floor. Clamped the wastegate line and still nothing. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

So I'm gonna be as thorough as I can, but sorry if I'm vauge.. Truck ran fine, had the Smarty on it, rolling coal...did some brakes and ball joints, let the truck down off the jack, cranked it and started white/blue smoking...dont really recall was kinda worried, shut it down, limped him home and parked. Later got it cranked, parked for months, drove it about 45 miles, lost compression in 3rd, downshifted and caught boost, got it where I was going, parked it again...didnt have the money to fool around with it... 8 months later....got batteries charged, oil filter, fuel filter, and air filter Was running and smoking...dash and all on, odometer reading 5…

New APPS sensor installed now random Dead peddle 5.9 C. Could it be ecm , alternator, or ground issue.?

Ok, so I was playing with quadzilla (going through settings and such), and decided to try my high idle again. Every time I've tried it in the past, it would shut the truck down, then the truck wouldn't start for about a minute. It would repeat this until I turned the setting off. I tried again today just to see,setting it at 10 seconds, and the truck started to idle up, but then died again. What's going on?

Hi all, My 2000 ram 2500 cranked, but would not start. I managed to get it started and it got me home, but the tachometer said 0 for the whole ride. I scanned it and got p0336 which is a crankshaft position sensor fault. I put a new one in (from rock auto), cleared the code, and when I went to start it, same problem- The starter cranks, but no start. The RPM's stayed at zero when it was cranking. I haven't had great luck with rock auto, so i bought a CKP sensor from advance auto with a lifetime warranty. Put it in, tried to start it and the same exact problem! it cranks but does not start. At this point, i figured it's an electrical issue…

My fuel pressure sporadically changes and considering all the prior investigating I have done, I am wondering if a weak Overflow Valve could be the culprit, or if the ECM is commanding full flow. Seems my fuel pressure will go up a little AFTER a long pull, like maybe the VP44 senses its brain is getting hot and needs more flow to help cool it. My fuel pressure sensor is at the inlet of the VP44, which is equipped with a big, long-sweep Vulcan-supplied fitting, not a banjo bolt. I see the procedure for testing the Overflow Valve regulator is on page 14-84 of the manual (1618 of 2939 in the PDF) and seems pretty easy. Has anyone found this item to be a pr…

Has anyone used a injector fuel cleaner does it work is it safe? How often do I need to change my BAAF? How long does it last?

My 24 valve seems to be struggling to build boost, I have an edge cs2, easy edge (position 1 -2 - 3) tuner and I cant get over 17psi on the gauge and only getting 800-900 degrees on my egt. It runs and drives just fine but I just don't have the power i should. I have a fass lift pump and it is at 12- 18 psi. It is a 5 speed and I cant hold 60 mph going up hills with a 2K pound trailer, I have checked all the intake boots and the turbo is tight? Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks KtmKarl the waste gate moves freely, forgot to add to question.

My 1999 24 valve at highways speeds seems to have no throttle response. Up hills truck can drop a bit below speed and when I give fuel nothing .. hit flat ground and away it goes .. truck pulls and shifts flawlessly at non highway speeds .. 23lbs boost, no lower then 10psi fuel, any ideas? It’s embarrassingly be able to be put pulled by a gasser you hill on the highway Check engine light not on

I want to begin to upgrade my fuel system, truck is stock for the most part (see sig) but does have a FASS ddrp lift pump. What I'd like to do is relocate the pump to the frame near the tank with a relocation kit and run a big line kit from the tank to pump, pump to filter housing and then filter to VP44. Can I do this in steps? Such as filter to VP first, then relocate pump and run the rest of the big lines at that time? Or should I just accumulate the parts and do it all at once? Will I also need a draw straw with this setup? Also, will the larger lines decrease pressure? I'm not a fluid expert but I would think larger lines would increase volume but possibly lower over…

Hey guys, quick question. I ordered a Nations 180A alternator for my 02 cummins. Is it a drop in/plug and play? Does anything need to be changed with it? I have the bosch 136A currently and am trying to reduce AC ripple.

Ordered both a Quad and Assassin last week, just waiting for them to arrive, it will be an ouch on the import duty and tax into the UK but thats life i'm afraid. Going to fit the Fuel transfer pump first, looking forward to getting shut of the electric thing. Not interested in getting on the more power bus with the quad just want to build a good mpg towing tune thats clean. One city 15 miles from me is going carbon neutral within the next few years which means a total ban on diesel vehicles, this can only get worse here so clean as me thinks. If that fails sell the cummins back into USA and spend the £ on my gas ram ☺