2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I got some codes that keep coming up P0238,P0234, and P0236 so i decided to remove the map sensor and try to clean it but the map sensor turns but its not unthreading now im not sure how to remove it

Pop pressure of Injectors When you look at a 24V Cummins fuel injector and look at how it's designed and how it functions. The injector pintle is held shut by spring pressure. For stock injector, you need 310 bar (4,500 PSI) to make the injector open and release fuel into the cylinder. Now the bottom limit is 293 bar (4,250 PSI) below this point the automation gets poor and there is more smoke because the fuel can't be heated enough to get vapor to go BANG! As injectors start getting lower pop pressure they do flow more fuel but the droplets start getting larger. This typically creates more black smoke as well as increased fuel flow. Net problem is daily drivers end u…

1998.5 24V Automatic tranny 4x4 2500. Hi folks. I have a considerable amount of turbo end shaft play. 208,800 miles. I have not checked boost pressure however I see oil is dripping off exit hose & clamp at ATAAC. I suspect I am pushing oil though the ATAAC as the turbo shaft seals and bearings are failing. Looking at stock turbo replacement options. I am planning to stick with stock size. Looking at replacement turbo options for a 1998 year I see a few choices. Some state "For Engine Vin code D". I assume that means diesel? Other turbo options read for "Engine VIN 6". I am unsure what that means, My engine tag is below. I don't see anythi…

I just finished installing the quadzilla this evening and man am i happy with that choice. Brought the ole dually back to life and then some. I’m planning on installing my new Fass 95 signature series at some point this weekend. My truck has the pump on the block, per the instructions from Fass my fuel suction will be utilizing the factory setup. Now I’ve read about 1/4 tank issues and updating to a better draw straw..but what if I never run my fuel that low..do I still need to make this upgrade? Or am gonna need to go a different route?

ASD Relay Controlled Lift Pump If the ECM is no longer powering the electric lift pump and you’re using a manual switch wired directly to the fuel pump relay for control there is a danger of the fuel pump feeding a fire in the event of an accident even if the engine stalls. The automatic shutdown relay is an alternative that will turn the fuel lift pump off if the engine stops and still be able to prime the VP44 if needed. The automatic shutdown relay (ASD) in the power distribution center (PDC) is energized by the powertrain control module (PCM) by grounding pin 85 of the relay when the engine is started. This closes the contacts and battery voltage i…

Is their an article on how to install a draw straw tube, I am deleting the in basket straw and installing it out side the basket, I know @Mopar1973Man had some post for one but cant seem to find anything

Gents, I have done some searching online and have not been able to solve my problem. Under acceleration I can hear a squeaking noise while accelerating however when I am decelerating in gear I can also hear the noise I believe my needle bearings have worn out on the u joint it’s self. Granted the 20 to 80 mile an hour pulls don’t help much??‍♂️. Any help with the sizing would be greatly appreciated. Spicer sizes preferred!

So I want going to start putting my case back together today, and I thought I should check out the low roller clutch cam (race) pressed into the case. I noticed some discoloration on the it. Looks like heat, but also pretty localized to a small area. I put my hand in it and noticed it wiggled a little... Not good. So I pounded it out, and I can see it spun off its teeth. Now what? I've read about bolt-in replacements. I'm over 1000 lbft of torque. What are my options? I'm going to do some more research on this but I'd like to know if there's any first hand knowledge around here for this problem. Pictures below. Thanks in advance!

So both front axle u-joints had about 250,000 on them one blew near civilization got that one fixed didn't think about the other side at the time since I found a shop in the town I was staying at to fix it that day they slipped me in and got it done a half hour before they closed so then the other side blew coming through a mountain pass and now I'm in a hotel with no options for repair and wondering if I could do this in a parking lot with no press. Otherwise for the first time in 15+ years of owning the truck I will have to abandon it until Monday when shops in this town (Boscobel WI) open. Any suggestions? Sorry if I put this in the wrong section

I'm having torque convertor locking/unlockin problems. It happens between 40-55mph. At first unlocking was very fast, maybe one second. Next day unlocking lasted couple of second at time. I know something about ac noise, can it really cause that or is there something else wrong?? Any ideas where to start?? Brake light switch, output shaft speed sensor?? Thanks in advance!

Tried to start truck last week,(no codes) not getting enough fuel pressure through to some lines, I talked to local Bosch shop, told me pump is probably gummed up from setting for 8 yrs, I thought I drained most of the fuel out, but I'm sure some residual fuel remained. Anyway thinking of a way to un-gum it, thought of pulling pump and running brakecleen (suggestion from Bosch shop) through it while hand turning the pump. Welcome any suggestions, I already know if I can't get this cleaned I'll have to fork out the 1K for a reman pump.

First of all, I hope this is the right category and I do all of this right, this is my first time on this website. I have recently bought a 2001 24 valve with 193000 miles on it. The dealer that I bought it from did not have any decrcription if the truck other than that it was a clean truck. I am completely uneducated in diesel trucks and honestly mechanics in general. This is my first diesel truck and my first vehicle in general. the truck is an automatic, and although I’ve hear manuals are more fun, more reliable, and all around better tranny’s, an automatic was the only one that I could find that didn’t cost an arm and a leg, wasn’t rusted out, and didn’t have tons of …

As the title states. My 47re actually shifts a lot smoother when it’s cold. The shifts can be quite hard once its warmed up especially in light throttle conditions. I’ve tried google but can’t find anyone with a similar issue.. I have a suncoast triple disk, dynamic VB, and all the billet stuff. Other than the trans everything else on the truck is stock.

Send my ecm off to auto computer specialist and got the email this morning the found shorts in my lift pump circuit, app pedal & cpu. Truck has a fass 100 on it which seems to be working fine( it's running and it's pushing fuel to the vp) & I'm replacing the apps With one from genos garage(I stuck a junky Amazon knock off on it to try to get me by, didn't work so don't waste your time) anyone think there's any thing to worry about with the lift pump circuit? 98.5 24v

Looks like I hashed my engine. I'm not finding many good used ones, so considering a reman unit. Are there any decent reman companies out there? Checked Jasper and their prices are pretty high. I really can't justify $10k to put an engine in a 20 year old truck that's only worth about $10k......

Bout time to reset valve lash and I haven't found anyone's previous post about what they recommend. I am setting the lash for my new stock motor for my 99 at .10 and .20, but is there any recommendations for durations of a motor with 100hp injectors and a quad with wiretap? Anything helps, thank you!

Hey i am new here i am in the middle of swapping my injectors from 7x.012 to stock injectors since i dont think i need that big of injectors on a stock engine and its been having hard start issues the truck has 205k miles and 1,3,4, and 6 Connector tubes look like this and i havnt seen any pictures of them that look this bad just wondering if this is normal? Truck is 01 2500 6spd HO

Hi guys, had a bit of a weird experience with my grid heater this past winter thought Id share incase someone else is having trouble. The intake heater wasn't working, the wait to start light would come on and cycle like it should but the volt meter never showed a drop. Checked the hot side of the relay, it showed 12 volts. Cycle the heater on no voltage at the heater terminals. Must be the relay. Replaced with new, same outcome. Took the leads off at the heater to check resistance, checked ok. Cycled the heater again and the leads showed 12v when they were not connected to anything. Long story short I needed to clean the lead at the battery terminal. Apparently it…

I installed some coolers from Genos garage. Now days there are a couple options, one is Fast Cooler that is a spacer that uses your original PTO cover, and the other is by Trans Cooler that is one piece and has fins inside. The fast cooler gives you 2 quarts extra when you install both and the Trans Cool only gives you 1 extra quart because of the fins inside taking up space that could be oil. I choose the Trans-cool version for 2 reason: 1: only one gasket to leak from instead of 2 per cooler. And 2: I thought the concept of having heat sinks inside may pull more heat to the outside. Who knows if it will and I might have burned myself out of an extra quart of cooling. Be…

Hello all, this is my first post here on the forum. I've scoured this forum as well as a few others for existing diagnosis and can't seem to find a sure answer for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 Dodge 2500 24V that has had a NV4500 swapped in. Everything, but the cruise control, functions as it should, however, the check engine light is on due to the PCM still searching for the Auto tranny. Being that it won't pass CA emissions testing with the engine light I could greatly use help determining the simplest solution to my problem. I do have a Smarty programmer for the truck and the PO tried their "manual recovery" software to no avail...apparently he was told this onl…