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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Started by Mopar1973Man,

    Happen to be walking by the truck parked in the shop and noticed a small puddle of green coolant. It where its at which is strange. Back at the bellhousing. I know the only freeze plug back there is the block freeze plug but as far as I can see right now there is no coolant coming from that freeze plug but I fear the worst.... Possible head gasket.

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    • 155 replies
    • 25.1k views
  2. Started by keithb7,

    Hi folks, I have a 1998.5 24 valve Cummins 2500 RAM. I have inspected the diff covers and their respective tags. I think I have Dana 60 front and rear diffs. I am not 100% sure though. Front diff cover reads Dana 43600 3 007 Rev Q. 05 30 94. The front diff tag reads 52070148 610719 1 3.54 Yet in my 1998 Factory service manual the axle options are: 216 And 248 RBI Axles (is this 1500 half ton?) 248 and 267 RBI Axles (is this 2500 3/4 ton) 286 RBI Axle. (s this posi-locking rear type?) 9 1/4" Rear axle. (is this 3500 1 Ton size?) How can I determine which ones I have? My guesses are in brackets. Thanks, Keith

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    • 5 replies
    • 5.8k views
  3. Started by Mopar1973Man,

    I got to say Thank You to @dripley ... He's taught me something today which I've got to pass along to all you. The 2002 Dodge Ram truck have only a 1 wire oil pressure sensor. The wiring diagram is incorrect for the 2002 trucks and does NOT have the Orange or the Black/Light Blue wires. Now looking at the 2001 and 2000 model years are 3 wire oil pressure sensors. I've even gone down to my truck and checked and sure enough only one wire the black/light grey.

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    • 7 replies
    • 4.6k views
  4. Vp44 guys. Im doing alot of work on my truck, cutting weight etc...my plan is to completely gut the cab, pull everything out and leave just the column, seats, shifter, and guages...gonna use my tablet/quadzilla for tach and speedo. My question is, Is there anything in the cab that is a "must have" to complete circuits or anything that if removed would cause the truck not to run? Besides the obvious **** like ignition wires. Id also be open to wiring a push button start. Any info would be much appreciated.

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    • 21 replies
    • 6.7k views
  5. Started by Dieselsmoke24v,

    Ok so this problem just started but when I’m at about 55mph the rpms are usually 1800 but then they drop to about 1400 an jump right back in a spot second, no idea what’s going on

  6. Started by IBMobile,

    I've been starting the engine with the grid heaters disconnected for 6 weeks with morning temps ranging from 28°-55°F with just a little white smoke and a loping idle for about 30 seconds. This afternoon, after my wife drove it this morning, the check engine light was on. I scanned the system with an OBD code reader and fond this, P1291 No temp rise from intake heaters. Monitor & Set Conditions Temperature rise from intake air heaters is monitored for first 15 seconds of engine operation. DTC may be stored if initial Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor reading is 0-66°F (-17.8 to 18.8°C), Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) and IAT sensor are within 10°F of …

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    • 13 replies
    • 2.5k views
  7. Started by Roadking07,

    Morning guys and gals, over the weekend my brother and I put a new head gasket and arp studs on my truck everything went smooth while I was bleeding the cooling system I noticed that a screeching sound coming from the drivers side of the the engine couldn’t really pin point the noise. Double checked over head and it was good. Did some searching on the forum and found another member that posted a video of the same issue after new injectors but never posted a fix. Also have the hinkling my vp is on its way out, truck cranks a good bit before it fires and it’s been getting worse over the past few weeks, raptor took a dump on me about a month ago on a trip and I …

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    • 5 replies
    • 1.1k views
  8. Hi everyone Ive got a list of parts im installing when they arrive from over the pond. The parts ive ordered are: Shift kit tfod Rear band anchor Front band anchor Band strut Superhold billet servo piston Billet accumulator piston kit GM solenoid upgrade kit including transducer. Any tips on the install mainly the shift kit Thanks

  9. Hi folks I own a 1998.5 24 valve 2500. I am currently replacing the stock Carter fuel lift pump, (Right rear side of block) with an equivalent new replacement. This is a preventative maintenance measure as pump on there now is seven years old and making 8 psi under full load. I an interested to see what pressure a new pump will make. New pump is just being bolted down now. Is it ok to install this dry? Will it prime itself once I hook everything up and turn on the power? I know about the upgrades for these lift pumps. I do plan to upgrade to a more reliable pump with better flow rate, in the future. For now just going with stock until I decide on an upgrade s…

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    • 13 replies
    • 1.8k views
  10. Started by Marcus2000monster,

    Curious if I would get much power gain from putting a He351Cw on with my 75s?

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    • 4 replies
    • 1.4k views
  11. Started by SSIRMAN,

    Okay so i bought this truck and drove it with no problems except for having to rebuild the weak auto trans , but i was driving it for about 15 minutes and got it good and hot then i stopped at a store and when i came back outside to leave, when i started my truck back up the engine started revving uncontrollably up and down like i was stomping on the pedal really fast on and off. I turned it off and caught a ride from somebody else and when i came back later, it started up just fine and i drove it home. Ever since, this has happened maybe 4 times and once it happened while i was driving. I got to a red light and the truck shut off, when i tried to start it back up same th…

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    • 10 replies
    • 1.9k views
  12. Started by Ronniemx3,

    Got in my truck today and noticed immediately that my shifts had gotten softer (47re). Especially the 4-3/3-4 shift anyone know what could cause this?? Thanks

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    • 4 replies
    • 1.3k views
  13. Hi everyone Ive got a list of parts im installing when they arrive from over the pond. The parts ive ordered are: Shift kit tfod Rear band anchor Front band anchor Band strut Superhold billet servo piston Billet accumulator piston kit GM solenoid upgrade kit including transducer. Any tips on the install mainly the shift kit Thanks

    • 0 replies
    • 849 views
  14. Started by Stanley,

    So after I rebuilt my t case I rebuilt my 5600.....Whew what a job but its back together but Im having trouble finding the correct way to measure endplay on main shaft and counter shaft etc. Its all together minus the middle cover inside the bell housing. and I have new shim packs for both shafts. I might have went to far and might need to remove the tail housing to obtain correct measurement... Can anyone shed light on this method. I know what needs to happen, just not sure how to go about it lol. And I know specs are .002-.006 endplay. Thanks.

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    • 5 replies
    • 4.7k views
  15. TUNE PARAMETERS Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/ Number of Power Levels Range of Values: 6 to 15 Default Value: 11 First off let me state there are fixed levels on the Quadzilla Adrenaline that you cannot change. This is levels 0 to 3 which are listed below. Stock - Quadzilla Adrenline is disabled and Stock ECM tune is used. Valet Mode - Explained below. CAN Bus limited to 100% - Quadzilla CAN Bus fuel is used until it reaches your 100% mark, then stops and holds 100% up from …

    • 0 replies
    • 2.5k views
  16. Started by Dylanhigh24v,

    Wanting to build my truck to 600hp it has a s366 quadzilla air dog 150 arp head studs what else I’m I gonna need to hit 600

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    • 7 replies
    • 1.3k views
  17. So this started just after I got the truck home. I moved from one driveway to an other and the engine stopped. Restarted moved and stopped. Then ran fine. Week later and 1,000 miles into my get to know each other trip and the truck starts hick upping on the freeway going through Portland after 3 hours of driving. Did it for 7 - 8 times, not in conjunction of the bumps in the road or anything. So we are a week later and it starts hic-cuping on the way to Ace. Engine just dies then runs again. 17 PSI on the FASS to the VP. No Water in the Water Trap. Does it for 8-10 times. Just like you bumped the switch off then on again. I've seen things about dat…

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    • 44 replies
    • 9.9k views
  18. Hi, In process of servicing Cooling System, hoses, etc. I Need to replace seal on a GOOD Thermostat. Found one (1), a with Cummins rebrand for nearly $10. It's an O-Ring with grooved ID. Cummins # 3942454 Seal, D-Ring Anyone know of a better deal? Or a X-Reference. Thanks. Leaky

  19. Started by Towrigdually,

    Needed new injectors recently so I went with a good company, they didn't disappoint. Ordered 75hp 7x.0085 vco like I've been wanting and after I got the new ones in they are great, even though the test drive was short. Got home to fill out the core return and realized I was upgraded! just wanted to say thanks @dieselautopower for the parts, I'll be happy to keep doing business with y'all.

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    • 4 replies
    • 1.2k views
  20. Started by Bafazane,

    Unfortunately, while removing my injection pump, I dropped the keyway into the gear case. I'm going to fish around a bit more to see if I can get it out easily, but I know I'm likely looking at timing gear cover removal. The two things I'm wondering about are: - Whether or not it's necessary to replace the crank seal while you're in there - What gasket maker people prefer to use when reinstalling the timing cover I've searched quite a bit but have not found any solid answers. What do you guys think?

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    • 49 replies
    • 11.1k views

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