2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hi guys.. I'm am having a problem with my truck shifting from first to second.. only on slow acceleration. It seems like it kicks in out of second very quickly a couple to few times. If I accelerate quicker.. no problem. Can TPS cause this or do I have another problem? Thanks in advance! All other gears are fine...

I'm working on diagnosing a P0237 code. I installed a fuel boss and primed the system by cracking the injectors resulting in fuel down the side of the block. Wondering if that could have caused it or I bumped something out of place. I removed the MAP sensor and cleaned it, appeared in good condition. Attempting to follow the steps : Though, my OBDlink mx is unable to read MAP voltage. I'm getting Mass air pressure readings, could the boost on the Quad be at fault? Going to disconnect the harness and see if I can get a voltage reading off the plug with the multimeter tomorrow.

Ecm went bad and I bought a used one from a guy thinking that any or all ecms can be used. My truck is a 2001 6 speed and when I went to the dealer to have them flash the new one they're saying it's from a 1998. Stupid me I didnt ask what year truck it came off of when I bought it. So the technican tells me I need a 2000 or newer ecm and that there's no need to flash anything it will work. I've spent alot of time reading about this issue and that's the first I've heard that. So I guess my question is what years work with what and does auto/manual tranny make a difference. Thanks for any help.

It sounds just like wind in a tunnel. Goes right alongside turbo boost. Stops when letting off the throttle and starts when getting into it consistently. IC boots look fine. Very little shaft play. What could cuase this? Thanks!

I know this has been talked about a 1000s times but I just want to clarify a couple things. The truck is a 2001 with a manual trans. Hot wired the pump and it started right up. Good possibility that the ecm is going to be my problem correct?

Hi all, pardon me for what may turn out to be a stupid question. 1999 Dodge 2500 Cummins with an embarrassing amount of money dumped into it. I used to have an Edge Juice tuner but had to switch to Quadzilla so I could change timing. Edge won't change timing. The Edge tuner does, however, connect to the ODB2 port so you can set read and reset engine codes. Very Handy. Quadzilla does not. I bought a $100 bluetooth ODB2 scanner and hooked that up. I get RPM, temperature, TPS etc from it but NEVER any engine codes. About a month ago my PCM and transmission fulfilled a long planned suicide pact and that set me back a serious amount …

Vulcan performance no longer includes a FP test ports or Schrader valves with their big line kits and no longer wants to deal with customers as per our last fridays conversation with Eric. Even though Eric said he will make up an invoice for me to pay for one on pay pal...... he did not do it. I am very disappointed and the conversation we had was not like the good old days of dealing with him that started 10 years ago. In that time I have bought injectors, two big line kits, two lift pumps, draw straw, BHAF and an injection pump over the years. He obviously disappointed with dealing with the public, but still his word should be good as gold. Does anyone know …

Strapped for cash so I pulled a VP44 off a spare engine. It is a Magnum 24-4015. But when I spin the shaft it sounds like a ball bearing clicking. Kind of like a valve opening and closing when it hits each injector line port. It's been rebuilt at sometime because the pump is much cleaner than the engine is. Not sure if that is normal or if it shouldn't make any noises when spun over. Also would it be worth while to send it out to be bench tested.

This has been going on for a long time now. My cold starts are perfect no hesitation fires right off. When I start the truck after work in the evening or whatever when it has been warm I fire it up and have a rough idle for like 10 or 12 seconds. Also accompanied by blue smoke. WhT the heck is the deal? Iv been putting up with it for a while but I worked on a 24 valve at the shop the other day that started and ran way smoother than mine.

I’m throwing around the idea of swapping 4:10s for 3:73s to grab lower rpms and higher mpgs. Anyone here ever done it? Is it something that could be done myself or need to be taken to a shop? At that ratio difference is a new carrier necessary? Easiest way seems to swap entire front and rear end but it’s hard to find someone near me with what I want lol.

I installed a new set of injectors and bled the lines. It'll fire up. Running rough though. When I hit the gas pedal I get zero. Check engine light is on 3 key turn read offers me these clues. PCU P0122 + P1693 ECU P0222 + P1693 Update got the throttle back, fixed itself, let it idol and now it seems to be running smooth. Error codes still in play.

Thinking about throwing my old injectors back in my truck. The 75s are plenty laggy and I don’t foresee any tuning in the near future to alleviate the problem. My old stock injectors have 128k on them. Any idea on how long they will last? I’ll clean them thoroughly before reinstalling.

I got this P1757 GOV PRESS ABOVE 3 PSI IN GEAR WITH 0 MPH also got P0622 and P1693 the last two for some reason come on at times when I activate my exhaust brake. I have a DTT built transmission and it has some sort of electronic device that substitutes for the transmission shift control under the drivers seat. I am on vacation and just have a bag of tools so lets not scare me I still have to hall the 5th wheel home. I cleared it and all seems good and this happen both time while I was not pulling the trailer just at a stop sign or light. thanks ps I only have internet a couple of time a day at the campsite.

I know the oil pressure sending units and readout are not the best in the 99 dodge rams. Mine is fine when running but drops to 0 at idle. The engine sounds perfect so I assume it's the sensor / sending unit. My question, does using fully synthetic affect this at all? I wouldn't think so but thought I'd ask.

Just cleaning up my rewire job of W-T's genius redo and now I can't find the info on the way to redo the passenger side PCM ground wire coming out of the harness below the PCM going to the passenger side negative battery. It's the one with another of those suspect grey plugs and it use to splice into the cable that included the poor design ground wire coming in from of the engine and over the top of the alt from the 4 wire splice of PCM/ECU/VP44/PDC. What was his recommendation on fixing that other PCM ground? I've looked everywhere and can't find it now. Thanks. I'll be so glad when this is all done.

Any benefit to keep volt meter hooked up and drive around, to test if anything going on in different RPM's and speeds/gears? Read alot people that trans govenor seems to come into play with a/c leakage. When using cruise control my actual mph gains on flat stretches. I can set it at 65 and 3 or 4 miles later I'm going over 70. Haven't tested anything yet but think it might be a/c leakage, reason why I'm wondering about higher speeds/RPM's. Thanks

I am currently experiencing fuel pressure drops when letting off of the throttle, however when under normal throttle my PSI is running between 15 and 20 PSI. I have the Fuel Boss that has a check valve on the return line and a month ago I cleaned this out and installed a new ISSPRO mechanical gauge with a snubber as I was having similar issues. My fuel pressure was good for a length of time, fluctuated from 18 to 20. Right now it will be at 19 under normal throttle, but when idling it drops all the way down to 8 and my engine begins to stumble as it is starving for fuel. Obviously an issue. My question is, can the return line banjo with the check valve on the VP44 fail an…

Is there any oil that flows through the head under pressure? Doesnt ALL the oil in the head come through the push rods?

Hey so the truck I have is a 1999 ram 2500 5.9l cummins. lately ive been having this problem where when I come to a stop and go to take off, the truck will stay in first gear until I get rev to 2500+rpm and it will shift by itself or I can keep feathering the pedal to try and shift it. recently replaced gov pressure solenoid, speed sensor, apps sensor, I checked TV cable there is no slack in it. Ive noticed if I shut the truck off and start it back up and drive the first few stops the truck shifts perfectly fine through the gears but once I come to a few stops and try taking off it will start to stick in gears more often. Also no codes are present, any Idea of what else I…

Everyone knows I just did a coolant flush not to long ago and change my thermostat for the 190*F from NAPA. Come to find out the new thermostat tend to lean on the high side of the 190's. No problem. MPG numbers seemed good. I started to wonder about if I changed the thermostat from 190*F to 180*F if the IAT would follow? Guess what it does. Instead of the constant +40*F offset the 180*F makes roughly a +30*F offset with 80*F outside temp the IAT floated 105-110*F. If your looking for colder IAT temps then the thermostat will give you at least -10*F drop. This was only a 30 mile round trip to town. I'll leave it in and watch the IAT and ECT closely for the next few days. …