2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I keep getting intermittent "dead pedal" i just flap the pedal a few times and it comes back to life. Then engine light comes on and i get the code come up for it too when i do the "key thing". Lol Anyway it has been happening more frequently so I am going to buy a new APPS TPS sensor. I know all about the timbo apps as well the WELLS ve tps but I keep seeing these ones on eBay for $20 US free shipping. Read a few reviews and people are saying they're not having any problems with the new or updated version. The part number I'm looking at is GEGT7610-172 and the brand is ISUMO. Does anybody have any real world testing with these to prove whethe…

Had a head gasket go on the 99 cummins and trying to get a game plan. Haven't pulled the head yet but mechanic says these trucks are known to have issues with pitting from coolant. If this is the case to fix the problem involves pulling the motor. My thoughts are to just go back with a short block and have a fresh motor since all the work is done. Who out there is a reputable engine builder before and after the sale? Right now I'm already having issues with the builder of the new nv4500 I just put in the truck so I don't want to run into this again. So I'm looking at a worse case scenario with the new engine.

Got the Quadzilla in and working. On power level 4 (add timing) My EGTs have dropped 50 degrees. With the EGT defuel set at 1250 and driving with some restraint I can keep them under 1200 no load. Pulling my trailer on 2 lane roads I shut off the overdrive, run 55 mph at 2150 RPM and my EGTs stay right at 1000. Trailer on the highway I had to rely on my foot and defuel settings. I added an entry level H2O kit. Spray starts at 8 psi and keeps EGTs below 1200. Overall my EGT problem is MUCH better but I still fell like I am missing something? No boost leaks. EGT 960 at 74 mph, 1960 RPM, and 2 lbs boost, and 23% load NO TRAILER. Do these numbers look right?

I have a 2002 Dodge 2500 w/ approx 135000 mi. the injection pump was replaced by a dealer when the truck had 98000 mi. The truck sat idle for about three weeks and when I went to start it the batts were very weak, turned over twice and went dead. I charged the batts, cleaned the terminals, but the engine would just spin. The lift pump is working, and there is fuel in the tank. I also changed the fuel filter and drained the water separator. Still, no start! Help!!!

Hi Guys, I am new to this Forum and i hope you can help me. Thanks

Hi, I'm trying to select the correct range of gauge to monitor my 47RE with a 5" aftermarket pan. Choices are: 100 - 280 or 140 - 320 Any suggestions please? Thanks. Leaky

Well I have leak on my drivers side tank. Who makes a good radiator. Is the original a 2 row or 3

hey all. i dont usually have any question on working on these engines, but today im a little puzzled. i changed the stock lift pump on my 2001 with a raptor 100. i had this lift pump on my other 2001, but i just got that one an air dog 150. anyhow, ive changed lift pumps/filters on these trucks 20+ times and have done the bleeding procedure as anyone would. crack lines 1,3,4 bump a couple times till you get some fuel, crank until air is gone and fuel is clear, close lines, start. today after i got done finishing my lift pump install i did just as i stated and i was getting some fuel/air from all three. line 4 started to get good fuel and it was acting like it w…

First time posting on a forum so have mercy lol. Buddy of mine has an 01 dodge 5spd 2wd thats recently bin running hot when driven empty and short distances(he had to limp it home driving under 1500rpm), almost to the point of over heating. He also noticed it was low on coolant although he couldn't find any leaks anywhere. So he thinks it might be a possible head gasket problem, I was thinking the running hot might be a faulty thermostate but then again a thermostate not opening wouldn't explain coolant lost.....so maybe he just can't find the leak or.....not really sure lol. He didn't say anything about white smoke when driveing, there isn't any smoke or leaks that he ca…

I had a leaky hydroboost. Bought a rebuild kit and changed 2 o-rings. It was very simple and straightforward. Reassembled everything pumped the breaks. A little spongy, no big deal as I was planning on bleading them. Start the truck to look for ps leaks. The break pettle was sucked to the floor and will not return. Turn the truck off and pump the breaks. After 15 pumps the breaks start to come back up. I'm stumped. Any ideas?

im starting to get this problem and when it doesnt turn on an cycle its hard to start even if the engine is warm. its kinda like when i turn the key on its not turning on the power to it cause if i turn it off and turn it on then it will click on or if i bump start it and turn the key off then turn it on the WTS light turns on and as soon as it turn off the it fires right up. i can pull my ignition key out while the truck is running, it came that way when i bought it used. do you think the ignition switch needs to be replaced or a fuse or relay?

well its been awhile since i have had to come on her fro help. but here i am. i noticed about a month ago my truck was idling a little high every now and then when i would have it in park. yesterday it got worse. i came to a stop on the off ramp and it liked loped. it went from 700 down to like 300 rpm a couple times at stop. i looked at my fuel pressure gauge and it was steady so it was getting fuel . i put it in N and it was idling at 900 to 1000. i drove to my bank and tried resetting my throttle by turning it the engine off and turning the key back on and pushing the gas peddle down slow and letting it back up slow. it didn't lope anymore but it was still idling at 10…

I've been ignoring this project for a few months, but I recently made some progress. So I'll share some pictures. If you ever have a hankering to rebuild an engine harness, this is your future: After several failed attempts to untangle that mess, I kicked the Camry out of the garage and set up some tables. I finally got a chance to re-wrap the harness this weekend. The coiled wire is the "computer" ground that connects to the passenger-side battery. I will cut it to length and crimp-on the end after the harness is installed. This entire ground-wire node was rebuilt from scratch using new wire an…

For the first time my quadzilla was pegging my fuel temp over 160 and crept to 163 I was getting back to work so the truck is off. Is there any thing I can do about this? What could be the source? I haven't had gauges before now so who knows if this has happened before. Thoughts and ideas? Thanks!

Hi all, Started noticing a problem with my truck when it shifts into overdrive. Driving down the road, truck shifts through the gears normal kicks into overdrive and then starts acting differently. It will cruise fine under light throttle... as soon as I give it throttle, it responds very sluggishly, starts throwing consistent black smoke, the EGT's will jump up, and the truck is vibrating. It will continue to do this until it really gets up and going, or if I let off the throttle. It really is a pain because the truck drives in overdrive a lot on the 35-50mph roads around here. This has just started happening and seems to…

1998 24v 47re trans. 100k miles on the clock. Edge EZ, bhaf, and exhaust. I am having some slipping which which I notice when I roll on the throttle at highway speeds in overdrive with the TC locked up. I was convinced it was pushing through the lockup clutch and I was about ready to order a TC and valvebody. Now I’m not 100% convinced that will solve my issue and thinking maybe it’s my overdrive gear that’s slipping?? Is it common for overdrive to slip in these trans? I can turn off OD but then I have trouble even telling if and/or when the TC even locks up. Does anyone have any tips on how to really narrow it down?

Get on hard pull or pulling something out that's stuck it spits and slooperers. Consistent miss. 2000 dodge 3500 4x4. Thanks in advance.

Getting tired of spinning A wheel on slipery roads instead of ALL wheels. Got a 2001 2500 4x4 5.9. Looking to get some sort of traction device installed this fall. Who has what on their rig, and what do you recommend? Not looking to go rock crawling, just everyday driving, and pulling a trailer in the winter.

There's something under the hood of my truck that doesn't like the heat. During spring I never had any problems, as it started to warm up symptoms got more frequent, and now that the temps are nearing 100° I can only drive for about an hour and the ecm shuts off. If I wait for about a half hour it will come back on again. The ignition system is working because my volt gauge works, and the truck turns over, but the fuel pump and my trans cooler fan that is also controlled by ecm power doesn't run. Any ideas where to start?

Hello there I have a 2002 2nd gen automatic 4x4 alt 5.9 24valve with 50k miles. I have lightly modified it. 5in Exh, bd exhaust manifold, s&b intake, Quadzilla tuner, air dog 165 4g fuel pump. I don’t want to get crazy with it but it needs more power to pull my trailer. I do want the best of the best. I’m wondering what you would recommend for brand and size injectors/turbo. Anything else recommended for better solid pulling power. Also after getting these things should I go ahead to do arp studs with new head gasket. If so what brand head gasket would be best or go back with a new oem head gasket? Please enlighten me cause there are so much to choose from.