2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Ok the last of the metal wire netting has popped under my driver seat and now I'm basically sitting in a lawn chair. Anyone have an ideal if theres a company making aftermarket seats? I've looked around but no one has is making a seat that will accommodatefor the built in seat belt. Has anyone delt with this proble yet?

Finally got the Spyntec free spin hub kit and Autometer pillar gauges installed. I’ve always hated the idea of all that hardware turning up there all the time. I rarely need 4 wheel drive . A lot of work, glad to finally check these off the list , I’ve had the parts for longer than I care to admit. It seems I’ve dislodged something in the process though. Cruise control quit working. The light comes on ,but no function

Does anyone have these that confirm they fit 2nd gens? http://www.weathertech.com/dodge/2002/ram-truck-1500/floorliner-digitalfit/bodystyle/quad-cab/drive/4-wheel-drive/transmission/automatic/ I've been waiting forever for weathertech to come out with the fitted mats, but they only list them as fitting the 2002 1500's. What's weird is if you change the year to 2001 1500, they're no longer as option so I'm wondering if they think a 2002 is actually a 3rd gen?

Is there anyway to stop that crap? I pull my cables off and thoroughly wire brush them but it comes back right away and makes me mad! Anyone have a cure?

Hey all, Looking at this pic, which do I need to adjust, the fender or the door? You can't see from this angle, but the fender also stick out past the door slightly. Yes I know I have rust that needs fixed lol debating wether to fix or replace the fender.

Hi, I'm in England and have a 98.5 24v 2500 4x4 It has a problem with the CTM, some plank had originally connected the drivers door lock wire the wrong way round so drivers unlocked, passengers locked and vises versa so put that right and noticed at the drivers door window switch someone had soldered resistors into the door lock wires ?? I have a 3500 5.9V8 of the same year so pulled the door panel off and checked it, no resistors so I removed them from the 2500, now both doors would only unlock so fitted both drivers and passenger switches from the 3500, it was still the same, I did notice that the passenger window motor now works from the drivers switch so proved …

I have been having some trouble getting any air to come out of the vents after atleast 20 miles have gone by. It blows nicely and then after 20 miles or so you can barely feel anything come out of the vent. I thought it might have been a vacuum issue but I don't feel anything out of the defrost vents when it is doing this either. The fan always sounds the same, making a ton of noise but something is cutting all the air flow off. Any ideas? :confused:

So yesterday I'm underneath the truck checking lower control arms and notice the hydroboost is leaking so onto R/A and no seal kits just unit for a "I don't think so price". Onto ebag and here in the UK there are maybe 20 listed with the 3 seals all saying "exact copy" and "3 weeks delivery" and seller in London...... yeah right.... doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out where they all are from. On ebag.com thinking I'm bound to find a seal kit made either here or the USA or anywhere other than ...... Found one ebag listing proudly saying made in the USA but he doesn't ship outside of the USA....... haven't these people heard of the GSP ebag runs, …

:banghead: well it's a 2001 2500 cummins with a 2" spring lift in the front otherwise stock. After 50,000. miles my Dueler AT's needed replaced. I bought some used rims and powder coated. well they offset out about 3-4" per side compared to oem rims. tires are a 285/70/16. I installed new tires on the diff. rims and had aligned. I can't even keep truck going down highway at 60 with out about crossing center line. it is all over the road. Is all this because of the wider offset? If i have to go back to original rims I will. The truck is not driveable like this, I look like a drunk going down the road, it will randomly go either left or right 2-3 feet. It droove lik…

The headlight on the passenger side is dim on both high and low beam. Driver side is fine. Tried several new bulbs and even switched them from side to side to double check. I've cleaned every ground I can find, even looked under the dash, but nothing seems to make a difference. This is a 2 headlight system, not the quad setup. Any thoughts on this? I can't afford to lose anymore hair.

OK, I had issues with alternator for awhile. The voltage would be at 10 volts when starting and slowly drop to 8 volts after running. Figured alternator because when when measure withm eter at battery, was only reading 12 volts and it would slowly drop. Tested alternator and tested bad. Replaced. Ran good for week, then same thing. Another bad alternator. Replaced. Checked codes, 1682, 0622,0500,1765,1693, 0501. Figured the pcm isn't seeing whati t needs to see to turn on alternator. I installed the external VR to the firewall, after sandig the paint off (good ground). Wired the blue wire to the Vr, top post, to a switched hot when key is on and added a wire to run to the…

So Friday night, we attempted to replace my ball joints. All week, I've been soaking the hub assembly and associated hardware with rust penetrate.Bottom line:Broke $1400 in Snap-On and Matco tools, and NEVER got the axle nut off, nor did we get the hub out. Afterward, we tried using the hub press tool thingy from Snap-On, where you use the hub bolts (backed out some) and use the power steering to press the hub out.. Yeah... DESTROYED the right-inner TRE; turned it into a horseshoe.. it's as if the spindle and hub are now one-piece, thanks to rust...So, I had to replace that. Never did get the hub out. I suppose next weekend, I'll just cut the ball joints , slid…

Ok. Everyone knows I just replaced my front two ABS sensors. Here is what happening now. Start up roll out slow speeds less than 40 MPH the ABS and BRAKE lights remains off. Once I exceed 40 MPH they pop back on. I can pull over shut off the truck start up again and start rolling out and the light reset again. Once over 40 MPH it trips again. My old sensors works fine but had been broken in the leads. I solder and shrink tube then a few times and always was able to get the light back out. As for the rear speed sensor it dead on with my Garmin GPS so I really doubt I got a bad rear sensor.

But I have vacuum Both cad 4x4 works as well as cruise control .... What to look at next ?

I touched on this a little in another thread a while back. Finally getting to it. My abs light flashes constantly. The red brake light on the dash is not on, only the flashing abs light. I have read through the abs article and it refers to the abs/brake light both being on. So that didn't really give me a definite answer to my problem Abs light flashing, no parking brake light on and the speedo is working fine, cruise control works, brake lights come on when brakes applied as they should and 4wd light comes on and engages as it should. I did replace one front wheel speed sensor yesterday, planning on doing the other side either today or tomorrow but I fee…

I am in need of a new exhaust from the turbo back to the tail pipe. I have been looking online at exhaust kits that appear to assemble with clamps. Or I could spend a little extra money and pay a muffler shop to put on a custom exhaust with not need of a segmented system. Are the do it yourself kits worth it? I worry that they may be more prone to coming apart and creating more problems. I like the idea of having an exhaust that is welded together, however, I don't have access to one. I wouldn't mind putting it on myself especially if it saved me money, but I don't want to be doing this every other year. Thoughts/Recommendations?

Since I got the dodge in the garage for it’s annual tune up I thought I would tackle the front drivers seat project. I was in desperate need of a new cushion and cover. I found a place on eBay that had the factory original copy of the covers, along with the new foam. I wish I could post links but my computer is having issues with that. The place is called autochampoftexas, Therr prices were comparable and when you place your order they have you send in your vin # and trim code # to make sure you get the right pattern and color, anyway it matched my original perfect. The old and disgusting And the new

Over the past couple weeks when I start up during a cold morning I'd happen to get the occasional P1291 code for the lack of intake heat. I'd clear the code and then it wouldn't happen again for a few days or so, depending on how many times I drove the truck. Strange part is when it would throw the code, I'd immediately shut down, check with a reader, clear the code, and start up again. All would be fine. I thought maybe I have a bad or sticky relay that just happened free up, so I checked around to see who has them. Thankfully they're readily available but they're not cheap either. Before I went and spent the money I thought I'd do a full diagnostic just to be …

My ac quite working. Clutch not engaging. Checked for a code. None found. Checked continuity through hi pressure switch and clutch circuit. OK Checked clutch physically with external 12 volts. Clutch engaged. Any suggestions?? Where can I find a schematic of the ac circuit?

Situation: Beginning a new job soon with 145 mile daily commute on hilly, curvy roads. Limited snow and ice. Truck still has play in steering, poor OEM lights, and mileage is sadly around 12mpg the last time I calculated it. Steering was some improved after addition of Luke's Link, but at highway speeds of 70mph the truck required me to keep 2 hands on the wheel to make sure I had control at all times. Truck: ’99 Quad Cab w/8 ft bed. Installed lower(?) balls joints on both sides a couple years ago, er...had installed. Installed Luke’s Link on OEM track bar Aug 2015 as I put on new tires and it could be aligned due to slop in the front end. Goal: 1st is safet…