2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Wonder if anyone else has had this problem before I fire the parts cannon. Heat was selected to full hot, went to turn it to mix cooler and felt no change till it was halfway into the cold range. Then only felt cold air from vents. Turned back to heat slowly and again, didn't feel any change till halfway into the hot range then only felt full hot. Checked fuses, checked the plastic piece between the blend motor and door, pulled control panel and all connections are good. Everything else works normal such as fan speeds and vent selections, even max cold. Im assuming the temperature select part of the panel has failed but it could be s…

I try and keep a close eye on my oil level, checking it often. All of my oil changes I haven't seen any drop really in oil level. However this time I am 4,000 some miles in and I am about half way on the safe zone on the dipstick. I did pull heavy a few times and I was on some steep land. I am planning on doing the vent tube mod that moparman came up with as I have the oil build up on the front of my motor. I Dont have any drips, no more than a slight haze for blow by and the truck runs great. Truck has 202,000 miles. Is this normal oil consumption? Will the vent mod help?

Ill start by saying i cant wait to have my 3:54s and smaller tires next year. I have barely touched the front end of my truck since i bought it but lately i have found a lot of worn parts. The latest deal is a clunk from the front when returning the wheel to center after a sharp turn. I also noticed while fixing my frame brace that my sway bar end links were brittle and sloppy. Also noticed that when inside the cab i can pick the steering wheel up and down a 1/2 inch. Im thinking that may be part of the clunk noise? I have a feeling the 2 bolts that hold the column up that i pulled for the heater core job are the culprits but we will find out later.

I was making a 4 hour drive in my truck and the brake light and abs light came on truck is a 97 2wd 5speed

Not sure if this is actually my fault but upon my steering gear install one of the frame brace/ Sway bar bracket bolts stripped out. Turn out theyre is a nut inside the frame rail that is stripped and spinning out. Now what the heck do I do? I can see know possible way of getting another but in without cutting into the frame and that’s not what I want to do? Any suggestions? I’m worried about the sway bar flying off at some point becuase of only one bolt on the drivers side holding it up.

so i was power washing under my truck 95 12V yesterday, trying to find where the oil is leaking from, it's more like wheres it NOT leaking from... wow... it leaks alot, anyhow. on the exhaust, saw an interesting little something.. can anyone tell me what it was once used for?

Wacky Sudden out of control truck and camper on the freeway the other night, was a front hub bearing. It threw me into the fast lane, scared the hell out of me and finally got it off the road in a very squirrilly fashion . $340 towing bill and spent the night in Les Schwab for morning repairs. At least I had a place to sleep. I got repaired before noon and got home but the ABS lite is still on... pain. My question is has anyone figured out a way to lube those factory hub/ bearings? I heard they last an average of 100,000 but longer if you lube them by removing the ABS bolt and squirt grease down in there? They can be a pain getting them off too unless you lube…

Hello, I have the moparman Hi idle switch. It is an older model (fits in the cubby and has etched backing plate). The issue I am having is once I turn the switch on regardless of position is that CEL comes on and Temp gauge goes full over into red zone. Truck does not idle up or go into 3cyl mode. I did not have a chance to check what code it throws as result and just wondering if anyone has had this issue or knows what the problem is. Help would be appreciated as winter is pretty here in Canada and it is super nice to have the switch working. Thanks, Jon

I have a issue while turning, feels like the truck is possibly in 4 wheel drive, and it’s definetely in the front end. From what I have read it could possibly be front axle u joints. Since these are not terribly expensive what brand is suggested? Rock auto has quite a few brands.

Hey guys, I lost my high beam function on the passenger side of my truck. I know it's not the bulb because I already replaced it with a new one. What color wires should I be tracing to repair this issue or what might the problem be? The high beam function works perfectly on the driver's side. Thanks

I think I've got some electrical issues. My main problem is the apps. It probably needs to be replaced..but I'm trying to properly diagnose it, or if it's something bigger. Back story. The truck at all speeds has what I think is "dead pedal". 47re. When I'm taking off, the truck seems to go, then cut, then go..like it's not certain where the pedal is, even though I haven't moved my foot. The biggest problem for me is highway driving. I can't maintain speed with cruise control. If I reset the apps by unplug, key on reset, it'll work for a while, then fall off. If I set cruise control, at say, 65mph..rather than keeping a steady engine load of say,…

Since I have finished my heater core I have an intermittent gurgle from the heater core area after shutdown. Its got to be air in the cooling system but surely it would be gone now? Is theyre a way to bleed the air out of the cooling system?

I need a new floor jack for the garage. I will use it on the fleet of cars we have but want to be sure I have enough capacity for the truck.

So I have a spare set of seats and Console/Armrest. I don't want to change the whole seat portion, am hoping I can just pull the armrest/console off and swap them. DOes anyone know if the two big phillips screws where the armrest pivots will allow me to just pop that piece out and switch them?

Just noticed my hitch had developed a crack where it bolts to frame towards back, about 1.5" long. So I wasn't going to take any changes welding it and got a new one coming. I've read some reviews about curt class 5 hitches and that's what I went with. Rockauto has them but with shipping it came up to way more then what u found on eBay. Here is a link https://www.ebay.com/itm/CURT-Manufacturing-Receiver-Hitch-15318/332832960399?hash=item4d7e63ef8f:g:INQAAOSwWlFbuoKQ:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!60067!US!-1 This is for short bed curt15318, if you have long bed 15319 is what you want, but on reading more it seems that ether one can work but 318 has more holes for sho…

Got my new heater core in good heat and much nicer but now I have a wind noise that I hear loudly when the fan is off. It increases and decreases with speed. Feels like maybe cool air is entering then as well. Blend door broken?

I have been getting an intermittent no bus message since July or so. It had went away until my hunting trip last week. When it happens I of course lose all my gauges, but I can pick them up on my ScanGage2 through the OBD port. It seemed to happen on rough road so out of curiousity I tapped, or more like punched the cluster and everything came back up. This happened a few times. Since I can read speed, tach, etc. through the OBD port when the dash goes blank is it safe to assume that the problem is a loose cluster? Just trying to narrow it down before I start the long drawn out testing process.

Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944…

I am getting a 0-60 boost gauge. Is the below location a good location to put my boost gauge feed? Or is the boost bolt a better setup?

Good morning guys, Recently my "check guages" light has been coming on and the dash DC Volt meter would spike all the way over to the high side. When I stop the vehicle to check the voltage with my VOM the error goes away. What do you guys think this probably might be?