2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

My friend Tony went out of town on a hunting trip so I had to take my 12v to another shop he mentioned for the oil and filter to be changed and fuel filter to be changed. I dropped it off last Thursday and picked it up a couple of hours ago. Left my phone number in case they couldn't get it started because of fuel filter change. They never called and that was the issue for taking 6 days to complete. Everything except the fuel gauge worked fine prior to leaving it with this shop. I get in to crank it and it acts like it is in 20* below zero, A/C only comes out the wind shield vents and cruise doesn't work either. More crap to deal with. I don't have a clue where to start l…

Well I haven't posted here in a while, mostly because I was super busy and hadn't had time to play with the truck. But I did put some used 19.5's on it a couple of weeks ago, and I couldn't find many pictures of these on 2nd gens so I thought I post a couple here. I have to say that I have vibration and the centramatics didn't help that at all. So I'm thinking either the tires are worn unevenly, or I have other issues I'm not aware of. Going to start working on that soon. Anyway, I hope you enjoy the photos. The top is the "before" with 4th gen 17" 235/80, and the bottom is "after" with the 245/70/19.5.

So I was having a fair bit of steering slip so I replaced my steering gear with a Napa reman box. It is now 2 times worse. My front end is literally falling apart. I can barely keep the truck on the road. Dry parked the truck at the shop and I need new tie rods, tie rod ends, track bar, etc. I can’t afford anything to high end such as Synergy but I’m thinking maybe Napa parts? https://www.1aauto.com/2000-02-dodge-steering-and-suspension-kit/i/1asfk03897?f=1084240&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIicKHjd2h3gIVxR6GCh35qw-yEAQYBiABEgJgxfD_BwE Also found ths kit from 1A Auto. Seems earful cheap though. Likely trashy parts? Here is a list of the parts…

I did the truck coolant flush on my truck. I don't know why but I got a 190 temp replacement thermostat. The one I took out was a 180. Anyway, Will the 190 be ok to run in the summer in Mississippi. I did notice the temperature got hotter quicker on my trip to work this morning. The one in the truck was the original one. Still worked like it should. It was 38 degrees this morning....Yahoo,fall has fell. My truck only held 5 gallons instead of 6.

Ok so we all know that our trucks have horrible steering slop and play. Well mine was all normal and crappy then the other day my steering wheel popped when turning out of my drive away and now my steering is so bad I cant drive. If i hit a bump it shoots my truck into the other lane and j have to turn my wheel almost 180 degrees to correct it. I noticed that the shaft at the steering box where the steering shaft bolts to is almost like its stripped out in the steering shaft. Does anyone know if the steering shaft collar or the spline on the gear box are aluminum? I should probably replace both of them but money is tight right now.

Anyone ever have their factory wheels powder coated?

Looking over the truck for our annual safety inspection I noticed my Spicer ball joints have enough play to make me want to replace them after a hard 12,000 yes 12,000 miles. I thought I was doing well by replacing with the originals with the same thing that served me well. Like some have said over the years Spicer is not what it used to be, or there are different grades. These where in Spicer boxes and looked to be as original as could be. I will never use or recommend another Spicer joint again . I'm going with either NAPA or AC Delco this time. Just an FYI for those who are looking at ball joints

I am positive beyond a doubt that I am not alone dealing with a broken up dash core frame from a wreck or break-in or the famous familiar quote I hate to hear “What Ever” , it explains everything. Something happened to cause your plastic Dash Frame Core Assembly to break. Age could be the biggest factor or a combination of age and all of the above. Hopefully somebody has done this and would share the how to results on the Forum. My 1998 12 valve Dash Frame Core Assembly is in pitiful shape. Cracked from door to door in several key places like the A/C controls that had screws or a screw in the bottom plate but the top plate was completely gone so the Bezel was holding…

On my 02 I have constant power to my 12v power plug. The cigarette lighter comes on with the key. Can I some how take the two out swap power wires or just wire to a different keyed power source? Or is it possible to make my lighter plug where a charger will fit. Because nothing but the lighter will plug in to it now.

I pulled my dash to get the old cover off, drop pieces on the floor they shatter like glass,want to order an new one, this looks like a nightmare, dash is down ( not fully detached) but there is several screws that looks like hold down the cover way up under the backside by vents,etc Is this the nightmare I envision?

Shopping for parts for my 01 3500 24valve 2WD 6spd Qcab that will be pulling a 40' flatbed. The front end refirb is what parts i'm looking for starting with polyurethane bushings, are they worth the extra exspence? Will they last longer from normal wear, chemical attack and are they more prone to squeak an make noise? Also looking at part drawings the ball joints are pressed into a hole or boss in the control arms, my ball joints are bolted onto the arms and the boss is msg. I've noticed some of the bolt holes going thru the control arms are elongated, is this control arm/bj a factory mod? is this a model differrance? I prefer the bolt on style but the elongated bolt hole…

Noticed today that I have an almost screeching sound coming from the back of my truck, but the weird thing is it only does it consistently when I back up, only rarely when I go forward and it doesn't do it but for a split second. I notice though when reversing, it only does it under a load. Like if I am in the process of fully engaging the clutch, or when I'm in reverse and using the gas to go faster backwards, BUT if I hit the clutch while doing any of these it seems to stop, even if I'm still moving. I thought it was the pilot bearing but I jumped out to check and see if it was warm and it wasn't warm at all. I'm stumped here and its a horrific sound and I'd like to get…

Does anyone regularly use a power bleeder here? Whether vacuum or pressure? Pro's/Cons? I am thinking I want a vacuum style as I have multiple cars and a pressure style would require many caps. I don't always have a helper when working on the cars and its time for fluid flush on the truck and my car. Thank you

Ok gang... I've got a good one. My interior light in the center of the cab is out and so is my power mirrors. Now everyone is going to jump and say to check fuses. Been there and done that the IOD fuse for that circuit is fine because the glovebox light and the overhead console (map lights) and cargo bed lights work. When I pulled C203 all the light went out. So power is good to that point. Now I'm trying to find S310 but the FSM lists S310 as N/S (not seen). What is weird the Cargo light in the top of the cab work. So the only thing I can figure is the S310 splice has broke loose and dropped the dome light and the power mirror on me. Is it possible there is this G304 in…

I want to see pics of your trucks with running boards and hear your experiences with them? Thinking about getting a set to add ease of entry and protection from rock chips. I want chrome style and I want them to look good.

To start off it off I will say I just replaced both my batteries with Interstate green top batteries about 7 months ago that have higher CA and CCAs than the last set of walmart batteries I had. Problem is that I got a new(er) truck to drive around for better fuel economy and comfort so now my truck in sig, 2001 ram 2500, is losing charge after sitting for a little while. I actually started to notice prior to getting my new truck about 3 weeks ago that even after it sat over a 2 day weekend it seemed like it took a few more turns to get it to start. This time it sat for about 2 weeks and it was completely dead when I tried to drive it this past Sunday. Any gue…

There is a Tech Service Bulletin TBS 05-04-98 easily found once I saw a forum about it and wanted to share it here. http://dodgeram. info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm Essentially it proportions the fluid pressure based on height/ load. Not the perfect scenario. So the Rod was Rotted off this valve when I got the Truck. Here is the info I found and I am going to Eliminate it because I wil not load anything extreme or do any road racing..... Here are the important snipits from the TBS I hope this corrects the link there was a space in the address http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm

I have most of the makings for a gauge to check if EB is adjusted where it's supposed to be. The gauge, then to a grease line then to "something" that won't melt then into testing hole in EB A metal tube or hose of some sorts to fitting on eb. Thinking about using short brake line or water supply line. Just need something that won't melt. Any ideas? And anybody know if brake line fittings are NPT thread? Is household plumbing NPT?

First post! Did the search and couldn't find the answer. I have a slow fuel leak around the rubber fuel heater seal on top of fuel filter canister. Can I seal it with something or just yank it out and replace it? No diagram in my Haynes manual. Developed same time my raptor pump jumped up about 5 psi. I adjusted it back, but the leak has not slowed. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I have an issue that you small electronics guys may have a solution for. When I turn off my car stereo, there is a delay for the screen to shut down. Once the stereo turns off there is a loud thud from the subwoofers connected to an amp. I have reduced the remote turn on wire from 12v to 5v via (2) 1k ohm resistors and still does it. My thinking is that there it a voltage spike when the radio turns off causing the problem. What would I use to catch this or how would I "filter" this spike?