2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

What a Bargin ! $138 complete ! Ok .... what is the deal with these? https://www.protuninglab.com/hidxe94doram11.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=140845616938

Here you go gang you all wanted pictures I got them tonight after aiming my PIAAs. The PIAAs are the 530 RF series LED driving lights. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx I'll admit the PIAAs are BRIGHTER than my HID's. For such a small lamp package and two small LEDs it really throws a bright patch of light out there. Here is just the PIAAs. Now the Morimoto HIDs on low beam with the PIAA 530 RF series. Look closely you see the step in the beam in the middle of the road. Nice flat cut off of the beam from the Morimoto HID's. The beam path is actaully very wide it will travel at least 2…

I am going to be ordeing new headlights soon and would aslo like to change the rest of my exterior lighting to LED's (excpet fogs). I just started researching the LED's and have a few questions I hope someone can answer. It appears you need to add a load resistor for the lights that blink. I aslo noticed that flasher relays are now made specifically for LED's. My question is is either one of the options viable for the blinkers, do you need both or just one or the other. Do the lights that are constant on need to have a load resistor added as well. Would the LED flasher relay work for towing? Thanks d

i have a 2001 Ram 2500. Over the summer i overhauled my motor. I had the a/c system discharged before i started. When i had it apart i had all of the open lines plugged or capped. I dont pretend o know a lot about a/c systems but I know enough to understand and talk about the system. After i got the truck back together i had it recharged and i had them pull and hold vacuum for 25 minutes and it held no problem. it worked great the remainder of the summer and fall. now im starting to notice issues, first thing i noticed was that the condenser get burning hot almost instantly. like so hot you cant touch it. I noticed that about 3 weeks ago. the other day i left my truck idl…

It's close to how I want it and yes the license plate recess is off center because I goofed lol. I will be able to have everything cut with a CNC laser thanks to a guy I met at Cola Warrior. Also what is this?

I just purchased my first trailer that will need a charge line ( my last two had solar and 110 ac charging) and I noticed that the charge line in my truck has no relay that I can find. This concerns me because if the grids turn on they will pull current from the batteries including the trailer when plugged in. Being that the grids pull 100 amps each and the alternator will not even supply what is needed for one grid at idle. I my have heard wrong but I heard that our trucks had one just for this reason and so you cant draw from the truck batteries when parked and draining them down. I found the relay for the clearance / running lights but none for the charge line. Has any…

I currently have the manual towing mirror and they are driving me crazy. I'm constantly having to adjust the passenger side. Good thing I live in Florida as I carry an unbrella everywhere and makes it easy to adjust the mirror. Anyway, I'd like to upgrade to power mirrors and am wondering if the wiring for them is included in the truck even if it is not used? That certainly wold be a lot easier than wirinig power for them. I would have to get the control for them which I've found online. Now for the heated part of the mirrows. Is that something that the wiring is there but not connected as well? If so I would have to get the HVAC control with the mirror…

I've been fighting a abs/brake light issue for awhile now. When I first start the truck all is fine until I drive for about 5 miles or so, apply the brakes and both lights come on. I can clear the lights by restarting the truck and drive another 5-6 miles and the same thing. First brake press the pedal seems to travel slightly further then the second or third, etc. Here's what I've done to try to fix it. Replaced the rear diff sensor, replaced brake master cylinder (twice), replaced combination/differential valve, replaced the brake switch under the dash, had the abs module repaired by shop in Austin, TX. I've bench bled the BMC's four or five times now, also rigged up lo…

so i finally found a use for my old electric lift pump. using it as an oil extractor for oil changes. works like a champ, tested it on the bmw. got all of it out (6.5qts) in about 5 minutes. so no more back breaking “get under things” to change oil.

so i scored a door on fecesbook marketplace, 2nd gen quad cab with zero rust. my current driver door has the bottom rusted out and will be swapping it out next week. ebay they run over $450-500 rust free.... i got it for $40 HAHAHAHA if anyone wants a mirror shoot me a price as i dont need it.

Just a quick question. Finally getting my gauges in. Going to get my boost reading from the block plug behind the filter housing. My local hardware has the 3/4 to 1/8 bushing but only in galvanized. Wanted to make sure that was okay or if I needed to get a steel fitting.

Well I finally bit the bullet and bought a 5th wheel. As most of you know our 4x4 trucks sit a little high and the rear of my bed is a little closer then I like. I did some research and found that dodge made at one time shorter spacer blocks that was 1 7/8 inches shorter then stock. I checked today and the local dealer said that they are not available and none are listed in stock in there system. Soooo I had a thought that I should be able to just have a set machined off and shorter u bolts installed.. The RV dealer that installed my hitch said that they send there rigs with this problem to a local welder (I have dealt with him and he does excellent work) to weld dropped …

Hello Everyone, One of my winter projects this year is to refresh some aspects of the truck and I would like to tackle the rear axle sway/wrap in an effort to improve traction & reduce the wear on the other drive-train items from the pinion shift. I have spent several hours searching and cannot find a traction / ladder bar setup for our trucks that has a front swing shackle as to not limit suspension travel. Prior to me fabricating something, does anyone have any links to a company that offers a front swing shackle type traction / ladder bar setup for our truck? Thanks in advance

I purchased the high idle kit from this website, i installed it and it idled up to 1200 for about a minute then went back to normal operating idle, i tried turning truck off an reatarting it and it wont high idle, on my edge jwa monitor it shows the correct intake temp, only thing i noticed is the throttle position flashes 1% then back to 0%, could this be affecting it? i activated the settings in the computer by using a smarty touch

Track Bar... This will be my second failure in a total of 324k miles. My last track bar lasted over 100k miles. I will admit I screwed up this time. Being I'm doing all the back and forth trips I opted to just at the local AutoZone and pick up a trackbar. $90 buck with a lifetime guarantee. Didn't realize it a sealed unit that has no grease zerk. I found this out after I've already pulled mine out and need my truck. My last Track Bar was a NAPA unit and it did very well to go 100k miles. Just times are tight for me and had to take what was available. I do plan on getting a Luke's Links and rebuilding my old bar since its got the small non-Moog head…

Well, my first day after selling one of the family businesses is dealing with a floor board leak on the passenger side. We just had a rain here in Oregon. (Imagine that!) and the carpet is drenched. It is not antifreeze, haven't been using the a/c either. I pulled the carpet up and don't see any visible places that the water is coming from. My best guess is that the tire rotation is slinging the water into wherever it is leaking from. I pulled the kick panel and don't see anything there either. Any one have any suggestions?

What size tires would y’all get? I have 17 inch stock wheels. I would like to have lower rpms if I can and I would like to get better fuel mileage. Suggestions?

I am tired of struggling to do repairs in that confined area between the front of the engine and the radiator shroud. I modified the top of my fan shroud and now the work area is very accessible - I should have done this a long time ago! The belt tensioner, water pump, and fan clutch are now very accessible, in fact I removed the belt and then the fan clutch assembly just so I could clean and inspect the fan blades. The work was very easy. I know that someone has probably already done this, but here are some photos anyway. I made the cut in a specific manner so there would not be any sharp corners when you reached into the work area. I used two zip ties…

Discovered black particles/flakes in my fuel tank. I assume this is from BIO fuel. Wiped what I could reach out of tank as well as residual diesel. Would like to wash it out in effort to reach crevices etc. Any suggestion on a cleaner I might use? Thanks. Leaky

I bought this truck from my brother in 2007 with 80,000 miles on it. It now has 138,500 It seems like lately every time I turn around I'm putting money into this truck. I use it mainly during hunting season and a handful of times throughout the year after that. I've flushed the radiator and changed the coolant twice while I've owned it. I haven't had it checked out yet but I have a coolant smell coming from it. I'm guessing it's the heater core so I called the dealer, OEM parts $950 and a local radiator shop unknown parts $750 It's got rust from living here in Michigan and I was thinking about getting rid of it 2 years ago but I was tol…