2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hello all. New to the site and thankful for finding a bunch of likeminded people. This is my 5th Cummins it’s a 2002 6spd 2500 longbox 4wd. About to turn over 500,000 kms (Canada). Love it and it does everything I need it to but recently I’ve been noticing what feels like an awful lot of axle wrap while towing. I got to tearing into it yesterday and found a couple loose u bolts but worse is that the factory lift blocks under the leaf packs seem to be walking off the axle perch.  It it must have been happening for a bit because both the block and the perch are misformed now. My question is do I buy a new lift block and hope for the bes…

Well, gang, I've been getting a rear end clank for some time typically as a released the clutch. Then the last trip to Ontario, OR I detected small vibration. I figured its just got to be a U-joint. While I was in Ontario, OR I picked up two U joints since not too long ago I did the post about changing the rearmost u-joint without dropping the driveshaft. Now after replacing the middle and forward u-joint I did find that both u-joints were in a serviceable condition somewhat. I did find the middle u-joint had roller bearing wear marks in the trunion and created just enough slack that I could detect the vibration. Sad but true I still had the clank. Now after checking agai…

Is anyone running a heater in/on there fuel tank? i would like to find a heater that I could use but since these trucks have plastic fuel tanks this is proving to be a pain! I found this but it is only for a steel tank and the seller tells me that it will not work and they are working on one for a plastic tank but it will be 10-12 months before it will be available. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-tank-heater-Diesel-Bio-fuel-heater-120v-500-watt-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a0d254ec8QQitemZ180609175240QQptZOtherQ5fVehicleQ5fParts

The LED readout on the radio stays lit only sometimes. If I push the LED screen it sometimes stays lit or if I hit the dash/radio with my hand it stays on for a pretty good time before it goes off again.It's kinda annoying. Anyone have this trouble with before.

So I was wanting to get new leather seats for my truck. The katzkin leather I heard is popular, it's a kit that just pulls over the seat i believe, a dealer would install it for 1600 buck, that's material cost and labor . Anybody done this to there truck before? Does it seem to good to be true, maybe cheap product or something else? Also leatherseats.com has some nice looking seats you can make for 1300bucks, not including install.

Hi All, I found a column from a 67,000 mile Steering Column on Criagslist, while looking for a Driver seat, tailgate, Bumpers... Parting out. So I found a column out of 98-01 Truck Gas 5.9 . So I assume that I have to swap the ignition switch and move the Overdrive off button over. Anything else I should know going into this? I have replaced the Clock spring with an OEM in my truck and it still makes noises while turning, at 320,000 nothing surprises me. I've read where there is a Bearing replacement at the bottom of the column, with a bushing, so I'll eyeball that prior to replacement. How robust is the intermediate shaft? No complaints I've added a Steering …

So i get to tackle the balljoints, i am getting some dry ice and gonna do them saturday. gonna rent a press from advance, i got the $75 moog uppers and lowers all with grease nips!wish me luck :banghead:

is there a kit to lift the rear 2".I did the 2" level kit ,the front seams higher than the rear now

Any ideas on good places to buy ? Best so far http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310197315794&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_3957wt_1167 this if it fits http://www.lowes.com/pd_183130-76354-73014003_0_?productId=1052305&Ntt=truck+toolbox&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=truck%20toolbox$y=0$x=0

the info on my 2001 ram 2500 are in the glove box,the# are faded,the only thing I have is the serial #1B7KF23651J555993 is there any way I can find the right paint color # in the s/n,by the way my truck is 2 tone black & silver:(

so i was power washing under my truck 95 12V yesterday, trying to find where the oil is leaking from, it's more like wheres it NOT leaking from... wow... it leaks alot, anyhow. on the exhaust, saw an interesting little something.. can anyone tell me what it was once used for?

I think with a reader I can get feedback on my laptop but I don't know exactly how it would work. I would think I could see the exact numbers for all of my guages along with IAT info. I am not sure though. The 1997+ all had OBDII on them I just don't know what I can monitor, anyone got an idea? I was thinking of getting this http://www.laplogger.com/products.shtml?fily=wired_usb

So last week I was in town with the a/c going, I parked and went into the feed store to get some stuff. When I came out the vent was blowing warm air. I checked the fuse, relay and the pressure and all where good. I took off and pretty quick the a/c started blowing cold again. It did it one more time while I was parked and started working again when I started moving. The other day I went into town and the a/c did not work at all. Parked or driving, nothing but hot air out the vents. I have been told that the switch in the cab could be bad, but when I switch from the vents to the floor it changes just like it should. Just wondering if I am missing something?

Since putting bigger tires on the 3 tons of fun, I don’t have the clearance for over the spring bags, So the hunt began. I went with firestone F2220 bags, they go inside the frame and and ment for a 2001 dodge 3500 cab and chassis. according to firestone, etrailer, and a few other company’s they shouldn’t work. But they do with minor modification. ended up elongating the airbag mounting holes by 1/4” and they you can clear the lip on the frame that is bent downward. If you wanted to you could grind out this one spot where the inward nut sits (which is the reason to modify) but to each there own. I didn’t want to cut the frame. Once up t…

Trying to figure out the best tire pressure to run in BFG 265/75R16. I have a 2001 quad cab short bed 4WD. My daily drive is about 30 miles round trip with about 60% highway. Trying to balance ride quality with tread wear. Truck has hard tonneau cover, rear bumper that weighs about 140-150, and about 150 lbs of stereo equipment, and Bilstein shocks. Otherwise pretty much stock as far as weight goes. Please let me know what you think.

From what I'm reading a BHAF really doesn't give any advantage unless your truck has mods to support it, i.e. more fuel, etc. My plan was to go with a turbo back, 4'" exhaust and a BHAF. I mean it just makes good sense to me that it would be advantageoiuos for the truck to breathe better. Other than hearing the turbo whine (which I really don't care anything about) is there really no reason to do it if I don't have any mods?

I’ve just about got all the pieces to put an he351ve in my 98. I’m gonna be using a banshee controller that will take care of the exhaust brake functions. I need a momentary switch to activate the brake. It will need to be wired up and have some kind of contact with the fuel pedal. I’m thinking a surface mount momentary switch will be best because I don’t want to drill a huge hole in the floor board. I want the switch to be closed when the button is not pressed instead of open when it’s not pressed. Is that just determined by which way I wire it? Anyone have a wiring for dummies book I can borrow?

Backing out of Dear Daughter's over Christmas... noticed lack of back up lights. (Driver's side out, passenger's came on... though it was still pretty dark backing out of her driveway.) I have a whole bin of bulbs... nope, not the right type. Off to the store I go. I buy # 3156... thinking single function backup lamps would be single filament. The lamps that came out are dual filament # 3157s. Well, I'd grabbed some spare # 3157s at the store, off the next peg, so I stuck them in... but I'm still scratching my head... Are these normally # 3157s or # 3156s? I'm trying to test the removed bulbs... look good... but it's like trying to hang onto a greased eel. …

I've read about the upgrade you can do with changing out the rear wheel cylinder to a chevy 1 ton. On Michael's article, it says to buy NAPA Part#37337. On the NAPA website, it says its a M10x1 for the mounting bolt size. Well I don't have a NAPA close by, so I crossed it over to Autozone and Oriellys and found the wheel cylinder there. But the Autozone and Oreilly cylinder says it has a 3/8 x 24 thread size. Has anybody done this that know exactly what mounting bolt size they are? Or can I just buy new 3/8 bolts, or will the 3/8th bolt have to much play in the mounting holes on the back plate? Thanks.

My passenger e brake started dragging so I got under there and at some point I bent the cable where it goes in the bracket. So I went to order a new one and no one can get them, so I go to Dodge and they tell me both brake cables are discontinued. I hate going to the wrecking yard for parts. Anyone else experience this?