2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Ok, this is embarrassing but maybe y'all will have an answer.I've caught, in regular wood/spring mouse traps, a few mice in the cab over the years. Never understood how they got in.When I replaced the A/C evaporator and heater core, they were full of shredded paper napkins and signs of mice. I cleaned it all up and glued (5-minute epoxy) aluminum screen over the air inlet to the box, where it meets the cab sheetmetal under the windshield. And everywhere else that anything could get into the box. I guess they could chew through the screen but there is nothing in the cab so attractive to prompt that, except it is warm and out of the weather.I caught another mouse in a t…

Trying to find doors for these things is about damn impossible where I am without rust. I found a 1999 1500 ext cab with manual doors. Would these work in my 02 ext cab. I have my old panels and wiring still. Would the mirrors mountains be the same aswell?

2 fenders, both driver side doors, bed and tailgate back from the paint shop. Got the bed and most of the driver fender done today. Its coming together. Interior is coming next with a rewiring of everything and a dash rebuild.

Since it was 10F this morning and going to be the same or colder tomorrow morning I figured I will get some statistics on how well a winter front works. I want to get mileage and time as to how long it takes to hit 190F. I will do a constant 55mph for these tests and be on the road within a minute of starting. Today was without a winter front going straight into 20-30mph headwinds at 10F. Although synthetic oil seemed to not do anything at 20+F, you will notice that it cranks slower now that the conventional oil I am running starts to get really thick, you can even see how long it takes for it to get oil pressure. So synthetic does have it's place in the colder…

My front axle is way off center as in at least 1.5 or more inches too the drivers side of he truck. I just replaced track bar a month ago and it wasn’t like that. How do I resented the axle? I’m planning to rebuild the entire front end with the axle swap that is coming soon. New everything. Tie rods, ends, sway bar, stabilizer, etc.

I realized the other day that I haven't heard my fan kick in lately. When the truck was cooled off I grabbed the fan blade and the was quite a bit of resistance. Wouldn't spin freely at all. I haven't had any heating issues, but was wondering if there was any other way to test it. Bob

On my 2002 I made some Plexiglas fronts for the top two openings. Do you think that I should have made them for the bottom ones and covered them also.

My ABS brake light is staying on, Need help figuring it out....1999 4x4 cummins, 160k miles. RWAL (rear wheel anti lock) I read up in my Repair manual. CAB(controler antilock breakes),, RWAL,,, Reat axle speed sensor Brakes work great, pretty fresh pads front and rear, fluid level good I fiddled with the plugs on the rear axle speed sensor, CAB , etc. Everything looks good. Its a Clean truck, western desert area no rust Is there any way to clear the memory in the RWAL C.A.B. Any ideas what the problem is that keeps the ABS light on in the dash. PS my '99 only has rear ABS , No front

If anyone is interested, here is the size for the 3 bolts holding the gear box to the frame: Metric: M14 x 2 x 110 10.9 Class Roughly 4-3/8" from inside of head to tip I decided it was a good time to replace them because I cross threaded one of the bolts last time I replaced the gear box. I got 4 bolts and 2 washers for each bolt at Fastenal for under $20.

Hey guys. Think I'll start a new thread in my current issue. I'm chasing down my dragging calipers issue. I thought my initial problem was from my 5th wheel, but it's obviously not. That thread is here So here is the problem I'm experiencing. My front brakes drag hard. To the point where I can spit on my rotors and have the spit sizzle off. This is just under normal driving with very light brake application. Mostly highway. I thought I had siezed calipers so I serviced the truck this weekend only to find problem still there. Here's what I replaced. Bought new front calipers and pads, new rotors, and new brake lines, and on the rear I got new cylinders. …

It it possible to wire in a 9007 pigtail to the oem wiring to obtain brighter light? i believe theyre is somewhere in the range of an added 700 lumens when swapping from 9004 to 9007. Seems it could be a worthwhile upgrade for those of us that cant afford a projector retrofit or fancy leds.

Hey y'all, I have been doing research into what to do about the steering issue on my truck. I have found the Y to T 98-99 Mod and another steering kit 7/8" with high misalignment spacers. My question is will either of/ or both of be an option for a 2wd? I see all pics of 4wd trucks using both setups. After all the reading I have done I lean towards the Ballistic Fabrication kit http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-78-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1337.html I have been reading stories about MOOG not being so good these days so I am looking for the kit that will last and fit. I have also read about going to the 09-10 T set up instea…

Today I was inspecting my spare tire and noticed this rod with one end attached to the drivers side rear axle but nothing was hooked to the other side. I looked it up online and found out it is a rear height sensing valve that proportions the rear brakes according to the load in the bed. I read that some people buy a bypass hose or zip tie it in an upright position to increase rear braking power. What position should I put it in? It has been hanging straight down for who knows how long. Should I just secure it to the rod and keep it in that position? Straight up? Parallel to the frame?

We have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe at the fire department as a spare vehicle. The other day on shift I had to drive to a class. Well low and behold i get in realise the front bucket seats have the seatbelts built into them like our 2nd gens. So now we have another option for seats. I'm sure brackets can be fabbed. Heres a pic of 05 Tahoe front seat.

I have a 01 dodge cummins 4wd, it has synergy steering, BD track bar, EMF ball joints and Redhead steering box. I recently had it aligned and I'm still getting tire noise and wear(getting choppy) and the truck still wonders back and forth. I'll attach my alignment specs the shop set everything to. I need some help with what is correct? Because I went from the Y style to the T style steering and I think it not correct now.

I've always pondered why the AC dryer/accumulator hanging on the firewall is so close to the exhaust. Logic tells me that this wouldn't be a great design when you're asking the condenser to cool the freon down so it can return into the evaporator...only to have it pass right next to a 800-900* exhaust along its way. Seems kinda counter productive... Anyways, I had some extra heat insulation material for protecting things from direct heat and thought, why not wrap it around the dryer/accumulator to better protect it from the hot exhaust. Is there something I'm missing? Would this be a problem I'm unaware of? Would this even help? I've heard of people wra…

So was crawling around under the truck and saw this... Drivers side Passenger side Dont know how they got this out of whack but how to I adjust them? And where should I adjust them too?

I have a 2001 ram 5.9 Cummins 24v, in 2016 I had both from calipers replaced along with rotors and pads, I had a fluid flush, I replaced my booster on my own, the drums and shoes were replaced as well. I noticed upon replacing pads due to grinding that on my passenger side the inner pad was worn based while the others were in decent shape. It feels as if the truck has a rough time stopping too. Upon replacement of the booster, the abs and brake light kept coming on for a week even though everything was working as it should. Eventually those lights went away. When I replaced pads the brakes were pumped hard then started and pumped again to ensure i had contact before…

Well I have finally have the PDC and harness installed in the truck .If you remember the old PDC burnt up at Joint connection 2.I was checking for dead shorts with the pos connected to the battery and using my test light on the neg post of the battery and on the disconnected neg cable.the test light lit so i know there is a short and started to pull fuses.When I pulled the 50amp battery fuse the light dimmed and the next fuse was no change.Pulled the 20amp engine control 2 fuse the light dimmed more. Pulled all the rest of the fuses and the light stayed on but was dim.I am at a loss as to whats going on and am looking for advice. Thanks Dale

I am losing brake fluid on my 99 Ram 3500 Dually and I noticed there is brake fluid running down the side of the fuel tank. Is there a hard line in the frame rail there? Do I have to drop the tank to fix it? Can it be routed a different way? The tank is plum full, so I hope I don't have to drop it!