2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hey guys I bought a 24 a few months ago as an investment for work. A lot of the guys I work with have tricked out trucks one thing I like a lot is the loud whistle of the turbo I pulled my silencer off but it didn't make a very much of a difference does anyone know of a way to make to make it more noticeable but not spend a fortune

Looking at geno's and LMC replacement dash's and dash covers (cheaper!) I'm contemplating which route to go. Has anyone tried the dash cover and is it worth doing or should I bite the bullet and replace the dash? I am not talking about the carpet dash cover.

Got Out of the truck and went in the house. Had to come back Out to grab some firewood. Noticed the brake lights were on. The front marker lights are as well. Checked the selector switch and changed nothing. Can't turn them off! Wtf, what's going on....

Hi all with greater knowledge than I: I pulled the plug on the left side of the firewall, the one with the big bundle of wires coming out by the steering and going to the battery, and inserted my wire for my my new fuel pressure guage. Long story short, I can't get the rubber plug back on the firewall. There is a lip on the firewall and a grove in the plug and I can't get them to "hook" together. It makes the cab a bit noiser. Any thoughts? On another note, my fuel pressure sits at 13 idling and 9.5 WOT. I bought the DDRP by FASS but I think I'll sit tight until it gets worse. The borgeson box didnt solve my wandering problems nor did my caster adjustment but its now…

This is my 1st 2nd gen with heated seats. The drivers seat doesnt work. I notice the drivers switch in the dash doesnt light up like the working one on passengers side. If i recall when you try to push it it flashs but dont quote me only tried that once lol. Is it simply the switch fubar ? Or could the switch be ok but something deeper ? I don't have access to a switch to try so id be buying a switch. Thought I'd ask before pulling the trigger on a switch. Thanks

I got tired of my second failing Glowshift fuel pressure gauge and put in an ISSPRO EV-2 that matches my pyro. It's so nice to have a gauge that reads correctly that I can trust. I still have a liquid filled mechanical under the hood for back-up and this ISSPRO agrees with it 100%. Glowshift from new only read 5psi when the mechanical read 18psi . Did I mention I like ISSPRO?

So, I have a condensate drip in the passenger footwell. I cant tell where it is coming from. Condensate does come out of the drain in the firewal (engine compartment) but will drip into the cab. Ideas? Note: its quite a bit of water after an hour or so of driving. Cant find any cracks etc. :confused: Thanks!Ken

Got email! My order for my fuel pressure gauge has been shipped.Ordered a pillar pod to put it in so it will be to my left side on the pillar.I have everything to connect it after I receive it. Will be interesting to see my fuel pressure as I drive.I will keep up on my posting after I get the job done. I will snap a picture and send it after it is in and working.

On my 2002 2500 there's a couple things I can't seem to figure out what there for. First is under the cowl piece where the wipers fasten on, on the passenger side there is a black rectangular shape box with what appears to be some type of very small hose coming off it, like a vacuum hose. Mines never been hooked to anything and i'm wondering what it's for :shrug:Second, on the headlight wiring harness I have a plug for my headlight bulb, a plug socket for my signal turn bulb and there's another plug connector there not being used...anyone poosibly know what that's for

Hey guys, the ABS light has been on on my '96 2wd for most of the summer. It has just RWAL. I pulled the sensor on the rear end and made sure it was clean (it was). I also made sure the connector was on good. Where else should I look?

Anyone running dynamite 50 hp injectors or know anything about them.

Now that I'm getting the OBDLink dialed in and closer and closer to accurate for data logs, trip computer and anything else. I figure I needed a nice cradle to hold the tablet. Now I'll admit that it not exactly viewable while driving which is good, there is less chances of me mess with the tablet while driving or watch the gauges too much. I rigged the important gauges to have high markers so I can capture a screenshot when I stop somewhere. Now my cradle barely clears the transmission stick and I've got to be careful throwing 5th not to cram it in. The tablet barely fits with all cables hooked up including audio back to my stereo. I can see the tablet clearly in 2nd an…

Have my multimeter on com (black wire) and 10A (red wire) Reading off negative terminal I get 0.55 ... how bad a draw is that ? Dial is set to AMP 10

I try and keep a close eye on my oil level, checking it often. All of my oil changes I haven't seen any drop really in oil level. However this time I am 4,000 some miles in and I am about half way on the safe zone on the dipstick. I did pull heavy a few times and I was on some steep land. I am planning on doing the vent tube mod that moparman came up with as I have the oil build up on the front of my motor. I Dont have any drips, no more than a slight haze for blow by and the truck runs great. Truck has 202,000 miles. Is this normal oil consumption? Will the vent mod help?

I recently purchased an 01 6 speed single cab Cummins. I’ve noticed that while driving at slow speeds and turning the steering wheel the truck makes an aggressive power steering whine type noise and vibrates the truck like it wolf off the pump was low on fluid or something. Only while driving at slower speeds, making turns in town and such. Here’s the interesting part, if I’m mid turn and it’s whining, and I press the clutch in it goes away and won’t make any noise. If the truck has either the clutch pedal depressed or if it’s not in gear at all it doesn’t make a sound while turning but If it’s in gear, it makes the noise. Doesn’t seem to matter if I am on the accelerator…

I was just about to replace my sway bar bushings and read on another forum some guys removed the sway bar all together. The front bar that is... Anyone here try it?? I know it's better for off roading etc and i'm certainly no stranger to using swaybar disconnects, but just wondering if people leave them off even for the highway. maybe the Suspension is stiff enough that it will not make too much of a difference?? anyway for the amount of time it takes I'm going to remove it and take it for a little spin and see what I find...stay tuned. P.S- I did have the rear sway bar disconnected, actually I bought the truck with the links bro…

I notice I seem to be missing the 2 bolts that connect my transfer case to the rubber bumper/frame cross member. There are 2 Nuts welded on to the rubber bumper bracket. Any help figuring out the size of these bolts so I could just get something at the hardware store? Thanks (PS, starting new threads for this kind of questions is fine? just put in correct area i figure?)

The truck belongs to my brother-in-law in Crescent City, Ca. The truck is a 2002 Quad Cab, 4x4, automatic transmission with approximately 170,000 miles on the truck. Every thing is stock. The problem: After about every 20 or 30 brake applications the brake pedal gets hard and there is no power assist. As soon as he releases the pedal, everything is back to normal. He took the truck to a shop. The guy who runs the shop is a very knowledgeable man and his business has an excellent reputation.. He asked if the power steering worked when the event occurred. My brother-in-law said that he didn't notice anything with the steering, but his focus was on stopp…

I need to cut out and replace the coil spring buckets due to rust. I remember reading here that a spring compresser isn't needed if you remove this and that and support the frame while dropping the axle. As I prepare to do this I'd like a refresher. What all gets removed? Can I do both at one time or one then the other? Any other tricks or tips on replacing the buckets? TIA

A friend passed me on freeway the other day and called to say my trucks dog tracking. Said passenger front was sticking out 6"more than drivers side. I've never thought I got track bar adjusted perfect so I pulled it in. I'm getting 1/2" off is all. To the passenger side. I just moved it 1/2" to drivers side. A few years ago I got in and accident that ripped the axle off the leaf springs. Wondering if I didnt get the rear axle back to straight. I dunno Reset steering now tighten track bar. Possible that crown in the rd pulls front axle to right I was in the slow lane. Control arm bushings are poly but no way track bar allows it …