Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

7 hours ago, dripley said:

I like the idea of painting them and then changing to the bed liner if you dont like it. Gun metal gray would be a nice color.

Should be at the store tomorrow and I'll be able to take a look. Only downside to paint is the tires are going to throw some rocks against them and cause them to chip. Meh, I'll figure something out. 

Mine are not so pretty anymore. I am pretty harsh on them. The whole truck actually. Always scratching up the bed getting things in and out. Time to spend a little money on some cosmetics, soon I hope. 

c

Can-bus fueling only. Torque number is a tad low, but that's to be expected with an unloaded dyno. 

Edited October 28, 20168 yr by TFaoro

Ugh dang photobucket. Finally got my other dyno run loaded up. I think it has a lot more in it, but drive pressures are way through the roof with a tight secondary. 

 

Fast Coolers new filter. Wonder how well it actually works

 

http://www.fastcoolers.com/shop

Looks a lot like a fleetguard fuel filter lol

3 hours ago, leathermaneod said:

Looks a lot like a fleetguard fuel filter lol

Yeah it does! Interesting, if you look at the picture, the plate actually goes toward the transmission and the oil goes in through the lip, then comes out the hole in the filter. How good is it without a pump??? Who knows. I'd like to hear what @AH64ID thinks though. He's very knowledgeable on the subject of filters and oil. 

 

I wonder what holds the filter on.....

I don't understand how that could do anything without pressure.

 

It would be like tossing an oil filter in the oil pan and calling it good.

I got something similar on my truck now, just waiting to get few more miles on there, then I'll remove the filter and take some pictures and post them here somewhere . 

This is how @Me78569.

Goes in the top, oozes out the filter.... maybe lmao IDK. I've been chatting with them on FB.

 

 

Also, I bought something today.... Couldn't pass it up. Got a SMOKIN deal, and I'll be putting it on tomorrow.

Triples?

8 hours ago, Me78569 said:

I don't understand how that could do anything without pressure.

 

It would be like tossing an oil filter in the oil pan and calling it good.

 

 

 

 

I've still got my reservations about the whole cooler idea. Sensor place on the coldest place and nothing to really circulate the oil. Hence the sensor will of course, see cooler temp being farther away from the hot spot being the gear teeth. After doing some testing of oil temps with a digital thermometer I find the oil is the hottest near the gears and gets cooler the closer to the case. Since heat rises even in oil the best spot is high as possible on the case and close as possible to the gears themselves with your temperature gauge sensor. Again there is no pump to move the cool oil back into the case near the gears themselves. 

 

Kind of like a candle. The flame heat the wax and melts. The air is cooling the wax round the rim and it doesn't flow back to the hot spot near the flame. So putting the sensor at the rim of the candle is not measuring the wax temperature where the wax is molten but where the wax is already cooled given the illusion of the coolers doing there job when the gears (wax near the flame) are still hotter.

 

As winter is coming I'm having hard and hard time get the temp gauge to even rise off of 100*F for any length of time so now it becomes a problem because you can never heat the oil enough to remove moisture. Even with my runs down the interstate I'm lucky to see 120*F on my last trip at 80 MPH. Even towing the most I see now is 130*F hauling 4 ton of hay.

 

I'd be more of believer if there was a plate with hydraulic pump and cooler mounted to the front of the truck like the industrial transmissions like Eaton Fuller.

Edited November 5, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

IMHO non pressurized filters are a waste. I actually think it would decrease the coolers ability as it will hinder fluid movement. 

 

Think about how long a coffee filter takes to drain, and that's with gravity. 

 

 

As for the candle comparrison, the same can be said for fluid temp sender locations. The difference in a candle and a transmission is that the trans has rotating gears. They aren't a pump but they do splash/move fluid that isn't obstructed. 

Edited November 5, 20168 yr by AH64ID

@Mopar1973Man I do plan to move my sensor to the passenger side soon enough to see if it's hotter not being in the Fast cooler.

Hooking a pump up to one of these transmissions would be a piece of cake. Just need the pump, a cooler, and some fab skills. Run a switch in the cab to turn the pump on when the trans starts to heat up. You could also run an inline filter to take out the contaminants.  

 

@AH64ID Thanks for the reply. Always like to hear your insight on oil related ideas. 

 

Got the big turbo in today. What a difference! Spool of the small turbo and overall low end grunt haven't changed much, if any at all. What I do notice is the primary comes in later and smoother instead of a WHAM of power, you feel it start to pull then gets stronger and stronger as you pour it more fuel. I'm sure drive pressure is down a bunch with this freer flowing housing as well. 

 

Doing some testing driving home, I spiked boost at 72psi before the gate could open and settle the pressure back down to 60 or so. EGTs on the big end have come down a bunch... like 200-250 degrees.

 

Took the truck to a 9 mile 6% grade to see how it was in the hills. At 25psi egts were right around 850 and holding steady. If anyone knows why my coolant likes to climb to 197+ with 850* egts I'm all ears... Then the POS dying fan clutch kicks on.... ugh. 

 

Anyway, I'm very pleased with the way it's running now. Don't get me wrong, the other turbo would be excellent for smaller injectors & towing, but it didn't work well for all out power. 

What size turbo was in before and what size now?!

Here is a tidbit today. I rolled into New Meadows transmission temperature never rose off 100*F. Had to stop by a friend's place to check on some stuff. Even at 19*F the transmission temperature rose to 130*F. Ok. So I took back of heading south. I thought to test this theory I could roll down a grade to cool the exhaust off good the stop and see. The exhaust was cooled way down no real heat. Transmission was at 100*F when I stopped and shut down. Walked the dog for few minutes. Bam! Back to 130*F. So this shows the stock transmission has heat near the gears but the case cools just fine. Being the sensor is high and close to the gears I can see the heat after a short stop with the engine off. Also this shows that the oil doesn't flow or circulate as much as we thought. This is very repeatable.

3 hours ago, notlimah said:

What size turbo was in before and what size now?!

I went from a 75/83/1.1 to a 75/96/1.32

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Here is a tidbit today. I rolled into New Meadows transmission temperature never rose off 100*F. Had to stop by a friend's place to check on some stuff. Even at 19*F the transmission temperature rose to 130*F. Ok. So I took back of heading south. I thought to test this theory I could roll down a grade to cool the exhaust off good the stop and see. The exhaust was cooled way down no real heat. Transmission was at 100*F when I stopped and shut down. Walked the dog for few minutes. Bam! Back to 130*F. So this shows the stock transmission has heat near the gears but the case cools just fine. Being the sensor is high and close to the gears I can see the heat after a short stop with the engine off. Also this shows that the oil doesn't flow or circulate as much as we thought. This is very repeatable.

I'll get some data off of mine. I don't think I'm getting the same results you are. 

Jesus H! 

 

You're getting greedy!

 

The biggest source of coolant heat is the head, which is also where EGTs are the hottest.  

 

If I am above 200° on coolant boost makes a big difference in coolant temp too as the intercooler is putting much hotter air onto the radiator. 

 

I also see a direct and very quick correlation to pre-turbo IATs and boost. My only theory is the heat being rejected by the intercooler. 

 

 

I realize that higher boost is from fuel and every temperature is thus rising, but with all the gauges I have started to notice order of correlation. 

2 hours ago, AH64ID said:

The biggest source of coolant heat is the head, which is also where EGTs are the hottest.  

 

If I am above 200° on coolant boost makes a big difference in coolant temp too as the intercooler is putting much hotter air onto the radiator. 

 

I also see a direct and very quick correlation to pre-turbo IATs and boost. My only theory is the heat being rejected by the intercooler. 

 

 

I realize that higher boost is from fuel and every temperature is thus rising, but with all the gauges I have started to notice order of correlation. 

I guess that makes sense. My intercooler is much bigger than the stock one. I was messing around last night and blew the intake horn boot off at 65psi. Pulled over and felt the intercooler. The inlet was so hot you couldn't keep your hand on it (IR gun got stolen so I don't have actual temps) but the outlet side was literally cold. It was 60* out and I wouldn't be surprised if the outlet was 65 tops. Thus it's not allowing a big enough heat transfer through the radiator. Guess it's something I'll just have to live with.

 

As for pre-turbo, I guess I could build a shield to make the filter suck more from the fender instead of the hot air that comes through the intercooler and radiator.