Mopar1973Man

Now you know why I did it. Being that even Eric was suggesting that I remote mount the fuel pressure sender off the engine. Might as well do both senders (boost pressure and fuel pressure).

This isn't caused from the coolant but the lack of changing the coolant. Over time the coolant becomes corrosive and starts eating metals in the cooling system. All the coolant does is prevent boiling and freezing. As for pH level that can only be resolved will system flushing. The coolant becomes corrosive from every time you crank the start your passing a high current through the block and charging the cooling which like a battery more the charge the more acidic and more dead the battery the more like distilled water.

Nope... Not happening. I'll find a dash cover or cap one way or another.

I've installed lots of clutches but never seen any of this kind of damage. I never measure and on rare time I've been known to install clutches without a alignment tool. But I always look to see if the transmission mates up with the bellhousing normally and fully before putting bolts in. I've seen people with over 2 inches to go and get longer bolts and pull the transmission in binding or not.

Geez... I'm not getting break here. Well just finished my gauge project and now found my first crack in my dash on the passenger side of the truck. I was doing a bit of surfing the forum and links of dash providers seem to of gotten old so I'm going to ask all you what you used for dash replacement, caps, etc.

Sometimes you got to diagnose things on the fly. Like I'm suggesting to another Dodge owner to hook a fuse line to the alternator BATT post and bring it in the cab. Then hook up your digital meter and watch the AC noise level in flight and see if the noise comes and goes like the transmission does.

Finally... I got all my wiring, bracket, and other little things done. What I'm loving is both senders are not on the engine at all. I've installed the snubber just after the needle valve. Boost sensor is also relocated on the bracket. Used all push-lock fittings and 1/8" air brake line again. I love the daisy chain electrical plugs awesome idea. All electrical securely connected and tied down. Once again Thank You Eric @ Vulcan Performance for the wonder gauges and the custom bracket.

Possibly. But I doubt it though...

I typically stay away from HOAT (Orange coolant). I tend to gravitate to the Yellow Universal or Green that was original to the truck. Yellow will mix with both and very very common out here locally. Green is a bit less common and can only be mixed with yellow. Orange (HOAT) is very rare and expensive also can be mixed with yellow but prefer to keep the coolant changed so the pH level stay closer to 7.

By chance do you have more of these?

No different that my 5 mile round trip of plowing driveways with my ATV in the winter time. It's only cold till you say, "Snowmobile" then its no longer cold.

Personally I coat everything in engine oil. Grease is absolutely messy next time you lean your arm on the battery or your chest. (Yuck!) As for the boil over you need to verify the voltage of the batteries and make sure they are not over charging. Might check for error codes (battery temp sensor). Might pull the driver side battery out and check the battery temperature sensor for damage. This is what controls the charge rate of the alternator. The colder the battery the more voltage and the warmer the battery the lower the voltage. This prevents the alternator from over-charging the batteries causing the boil over.

Time to do some alternator bench testing. That would be my first thing. Second I would check the blue wire for matching positive voltage of the battery. The green wire is the variable ground from the the PCM controlling the field. Then I would do a voltage drop on the charge lead to verify the lead not damaged or weak. How about battery terminals and main cables? I've seen butt load of vehicles with absolutely mutilated terminals and wires corroded.

Any error codes?

The Brown Truck came! Well I managed to rough my gauges in tonight and I'll get them finished up at work in the morning. They are functional and appear to react with some delay. But I notice in the program software there is a value for adjusting the update delay. I also love the red warning lights I will be getting a USB program cord very very soon. As for getting the old DiPricols out that was a feat of magic. Got all the old plumbing, tubing and electrical out. Then started stringing wires. Like I said I roughed in every thing tonight I'll get my bracket mounted in and then get all the wiring tied up neatly. But I got to admit the EV2's are worlds over the old school DiPricol's I had. Now lets see if all my design work pan out for another 10 years of gauge service.

Hell no. I still argue with my boss about selling K&N filters. (Gag! ) Mopar1973Man -> <-TexasCTD

From what I know... You could contact Bob Wagner with Smarty and tell him what you need for ECM software, he can load up a Smarty with the needed software and mail it to you. http://shop.wagnerandassociates.biz/main.sc

Fuel system not air system. I've seen a few older Ford 7.3L now that have the ability to hold prime just fine be pull a continuous air stream into the injection pump causing it to run rough and skip. Depending on load and fuel flows.

Rancher do the same up here leaving the hood propped out half way. Same issues here with mice eat anything under the hood. As for RV's I find that it best NOT to bait ot trap inside the RV but outside the RV. Last thing you want to do is make the mice work harder to find the bait in it a trap or poison box. If your patient enough you'll be able to find all the holes the mice are coming through and be able to fill them with hardware mesh and expanding foam.

Here you go... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boxelder_bug

Well at 55-65 MPH it showing 200*F some days it normal other days its half. Connections are all tight. Thermocouple is still in one piece. But the gauges are 10 years old now and time to upgrade. I've repair the boost gauge twice. I've had to carefully remove the front glass and re-tighten 2 screws holding the face on. Yes. these gauges have served me well for 10 years...

Possible air leak? Thinking out loud...

Bummer... Email from UPS... Scheduled for... Friday, 10/10/2014

Bingo. Eric was advising me to relocate the fuel pressure sensor away from the engine but I wanted a nice bracket for bottom sensors. This was a solution for more than just EV2's but all electric gauges that get ground from the body. So after talking to him about it Eric produced the beta bracket and we'll see how it does. I didn't want to zip tie the sensor to the cowl (lame...).

According to UPS its suppose to be here today. As for the beta test bracket.