Mopar1973Man

Here is a older vid...

Normal not to hold boost. As soon as your foot leaves the pedal the drive pressure is gone so the turbo stops building and consumes the pressure instantly.

Not the pulley or bearing just the tensioner.

231k miles and still factory OE tensioner.

Ugly? It's the beer can special. It might be ugly but its true canopy does improve numbers rather quickly. Even my tonneau cover on the 96 improve it a bunch. Hey if I had more colors to chose from I would of used it.

With cruise set at 60 MPH in 5th gear 21.x MPG. Running around Sandpoint I got 23.x MPG. Then on my trip home 55 MPH in 4th Gear I got 24.x MPG. Let me know I'm sure I can make something happen. Turn back the sublevels till you get rid of most of your smoke. Like I told you the 5x3 isn't bad but 5x2 seems to lag more and 5x1 lags the worse. Time to shed your drag and get your efficiency up.

Needle valve on the fuel pressure gauge should be seated shut then cracked open barely so you have a 1-2 delay of the needle going from 0 to pressure. As for the regulator in in the AirDog pull it completely out and inspect the plunger and/seats for damage.

The offer is on the table... But I understand.

Don't sweat it. Do what you can we'll catch up later... I know. But as you get older you learn to work smarter not harder. I thought the wisdom is suppose to kick in?

The load of watts will remain the same but as you choke the cable size down the voltage drop occurs like joecool mentions then the amps must go up. Hence the heat. I know these are just calculated values but it shows how everything has to remain balanced. So if you cut volts then amps must rise to meet the watt load. Always best to have overly large cables and cut the loss. 12.6 Volts x 700 Amp = 8,820 Watts = 10.5 Volts x 840 Amp

Hmmm... You could drive another 12 hours and see me...

More I keep studying the EGT's are a sign of lost efficiency. Brake drag, transmission loss, oversized tires, excessive speed, etc. Even towing the RV 750-800*F at 55 MPH and keeping below 1,200*F on 7% grades. Like I said it not the turbo but the drag. Why is it I can do so well with 3" exhaust, +50HP injectors, no cold air intake, etc... Keep you thinking...

Sorry but no... The mighty Cummins can draw upwards of 700-800 Amp in the dead of winter where a mere 100-200 amp on a gasoline engine. Huge difference. If you did cheat the system and use gasoline cables you would find your cables most likely get hot and melting away from the huge current draw in the winter time. I would suggest welding cable and solder on copper ring terminals then using top post with marine studs. Much easier to maintain.

Think again. If I ever meet you you'll wonder about that statement.

Disconnect the batteries. Remove the starter. Unplug the crank sensor. Remove the one bolt holding the sensor. Remove sensor. Clean and lube the sensor hole. Install new sensor. Install starter. Hook up batteries. Relearn your APPS sensor. Still I would check error codes first before doing all this to find out the sensor is not the cause.

Just pressurize and listen you can miss a leaking air system boots or other wise.

Man I wish I would of known of this stuff back with my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon.

http://tax.idaho.gov/i-1119.cfm Now at half your tax rate but still more expensive think again... The lowest I see fuel on my trip was 3.849 and highest was 4.129 even back home in Riggins, ID was only 3.969...

Might be a good time to just pull it off the truck inspect it properly and then you could dip the tensioner into a small container of diesel fuel or waste engine oil to lube it up and see if that stops that problem.

Secret... I used Zep Orange Degreaser on my silcone boots and the degreaser made the boots ultra slick and only lasts till the degreaser dries. Once dry those boots won't move a bit. I fight to pull them loose later one.

I would pull the regulator out and inspect the regulator for wore parts and/or damaged springs. Don't forget the seats of the regulator...

Air leaks are tough to find sometimes. Like crossover tube o-rings, maybe a mis-seated injector, bad lift pump suction line allowing the low pressure system to drain back. I typically suggest driving the truck to fill the fuel system with fuel and get all the air out. Then pressure the fuel tank with about 1-2 PSI at the filler neck. Have a friend crawl around under the truck looking for wet fittings or dripping fuel.

Since the P1689 code is present I would lean on that for the reason for the stalling right now. If communication with the VP44 fails then it most likely stalls out. On of the reasons for P1689 code is a fuel pump relay issue in the PDC. Don't confuse this with the AirDog relay or think this relay in the PDC is for the lift pump. It controls the VP44 power supply. So start easy. also the ground for PCM, ECM, and VP44 are all on the battery cable none of them go to body grounds. Most of the body grounds are lighting and aux stuff...

How about error codes? Get a code reader and check for error codes even though there is no MIL light doesn't mean there isn't any error codes.

I'm going to bet either a boost boot or a intake manifold gasket is blown. I've heard that kind of whistle before. Time to build a test cap for the turbo and check for boost leaks.