Mopar1973Man

Don't even have a damper...

Opps my bad... Trailer rating is 13,400 and 20,000 for GCW.

Very very rare we stay in RV parks. If we do its for a short period of maybe 2 days tops. The rest of the time the RV used solely out in the forest of Idaho so I'm really not to worried about filters and such. Typically 50 gallons of water will cover us for 3 days tops. That getting a least 1 shower a piece between MoparMom and myself. On my truck I've got a trailer rating of 13,600# or GCWR of 20,000#. I tend to watch that more so. I'm finally getting the RV setup the way I like it. She bit heavy but I'm liking it. I'll go back through the cabinets and clean up a bit more.

Hua?? DAP $995 NEW PSG - http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/sovp44.htm Vulcan $999 NEW PSG - http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm BC better knock the prices down lot more to even come close. Also why would I buy a used PSG unit when I can buy NEW PSG unit for less! BC - USED PSG $1196 ??? http://bluechipdiesel.com/products.html

DAP sells "tapped" injection pump warranties...

Also check for proper gaps. I've seen some GM products with gaps as large as .065 inch. Even the 96 Dodge I think is .040 IIRC.

Jasper's page I think is way out of date. The diaphragm is no long rubber and its a harden steel plate. Bosch requires all electronics to be replaced now. I know that DAP and Vulcan Performance both sell only new PSG's. So most of these things are now nothing more than Internet myths and tales.

5th on flats. 4th on grades.

I would ditch the Smarty at that point tap the pump. Smarty it bound by the limits of the ECM and can't exceed that. But tapping the pump with a external module it can calculate fuel table beyond the limits of the ECM and continue well above. 100HP injectors I bet you could run a good 3x3 or 4x3 without much problems which would still be just about the same level of power I'm producing. Might have to tweak the sublevel for best smoke versus lag. That's another thing the Smarty can't do is smoke control very well.

Add my 2 cents... 1. Boost under 5 PSI and EGT under 600*F. (At least 24V's) 2. Find a travel path that less stop and go even if its slightly longer. I'll go a couple blocks over knowing I have less stop signs or stop lights. 3. Correctly air up your tire using the formula. You get the best of both worlds good tire wear and good MPG's. 4. Something about that 2k mark when your just slightly below it you'll do better. 5. Absolutely! Don't add more rotational mass or rolling resistance. Like another gent told me for every 10 pound of tire is like adding 100 pounds to the frame. 6. Most modules and programmers do help being CR's are very retarded in timing. 7. Dragging brakes should be checked every tire rotation which should be done while doing your oil change. 8. Levelling, lifts, etc. Measuring out your frontal area is the area of drag the your vehicle will produce so the more it stands up in the wind the slower you have to go to cut wind drag.

Most laptops have sensors to report heat, fan and other things it just that Microsoft doesn't use these sensors much at all. You can buy external software under Windows to do to read some of these sensors but still limited in what the software can do. Under Linux is a different story the ACPI and APM and used highly and all sensors are used as well. After a bit of studying I managed to increase battery life and reduce CPU temps while on battery use.

I don't think so. You don't even have injectors listed in your signature so assuming stock injectors you'll be fine with the Edge Tapped and cranked up to 5x5 it will be just fine. Even my last trip out with 16,820# of GCW I was still a manageable EGT's without any problem 55-60 MPH on average. Climbing 6-7% grade still well below 1,200*F with stock HX35W turbo and straight piped 3" exhaust.

Well there is one company... https://www.system76.com/ But like me I bought a laptop from Staples which came with Windows 7 on it and formatted the hard drive and installed Ubuntu directly to the hard drive. I've got a thread started over on Tractor Farm and Family trying to help others convert to Ubuntu... http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/showthread.php?t=15556 If you get the software installed I'll gladly hop on the phone and the internet and remotely configure and tweak and teach you Ubuntu Linux.

Sound like it needs some adjusting...

I'm trying to break the 30 MPG numbers empty. Already high marked at 27.2 MPG.

Yes I did something for you. www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HxhL_fF9Fg&feature=share_email Should be trimmed down to... www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HxhL_fF9Fg Then the site will automatically render the video on page. But if there is any optional stuff like "share email" feature added then it just converts to a link. So I just trimmed the URL, tested on YouTube and copay and pasted to your post for you.

High idle and MPG fooler is a good step in the right direction it will aid in MPG's. I'm finding out now with the Version 2 fooler which makes it easy to check performance on the fooler or stock setting. Give you a feel I can reach as low as 650-700*F EGT's and about 7 PSI of boost hauling my RV at 55 MPH (GCW 16,820#) but seeing between 13-14 MPG on flat ground.

Nothing was dumped. Started out with 50 gallons of water came home with the 50 gallons of water just no longer in the fresh water tank but split up among 3 holding tanks (2 grey water and 1 black water). 99.9% of the time I travel with a full water tank because MoparMom and myself can't drink city water at all it makes us sick.

That's wicked...

Transmission will build a small amount of pressure from the heat expanding gases inside. But no fluid should be venting from the dipstick tube just a small amount of vapor and gases as the fluid heats and cools.

Welcome to the family... Make sure you accepting cookies and also you click the "Remember Me" check box to tell the forum to remember your cookie. If you don't the cookie with timeout over a period of time and drop your login. If your still having issue let me know and we'll work it out.

This is a common issues that people don't check the piston to bore clearance. It will cause the piston to bind up and stick.

I would take a step farther and test the fuel pressure of the rail and see where it sits too. Too much or too little fuel pressure can create mixture issues. Some vehicles use a vacuum regulator to regulate fuel pressure in the rail might want to check. Spark plug gap would cause more of a misfire code P0300 to P0308 codes. Maybe you should get them a ScanGauge II and calibrate it for them...

Look nice but, I thought I spend a bunch of money at $1,100 for my rims and tires. I'm really curious of the long term use of the tire and performance. If the tire wears longer and handles snow and ice with good characteristics I would be all for converting to 19.5 tires. I'm like AH64ID in a lot of ways because of my constant on and off roads and travelling dirt roads tend to chew tires up rather quickly.

Dang, Ed... That's no fun giving away the secret.