Mopar1973Man

There is only 2 thing to make a diesel engine fire. Compression and fuel. So if the compression is weak or the fuel spray is poor then the poor performance will be noted at cold operation. It actually a 56K ohm resistor is what I use. But anything between 56k ohm and 100k ohm will trigger it. But the biggest thing I keep think about is the serve timing rattle.

What is this term I see using more and more "Tuning: MY03 pistons and BBi Stage 1's in a MY05 truck." MY is that a term for a model or actually "My Truck"?

Any flash work done by the dealer make sure to unhook the Edge Comp (or any enhancements) before the DRBIII is used.

Ummm... No that's not normal. Any enhancement boxes, programmers or both used? Excessive timing is that hard knock as the engine switched over to 3 cylinder mode and the cold intake the timing advanced hard. I also noticed you had a un-even idling speed even on normal idle I would like to ask what injectors you have and have they been pop tested?

Write will be on hook up and diagnostics. But no design for do-it-yourself... As for connections there is none that will affect the Edge Comp It hooks to the IAT sensor and the ECT sensor which neither sensor the Edge Comp even uses. No. The dealer flash and a smarty flash are exactly the same its just dealer charges for their time where a Smarty is free. All the MPG part does is fool the manifold temperature upwards to 143*F this aids in bringing the timing back to a usable level most have reported at least 1-2 MPG gain with it in cold weather Winter fronts and BHAF help even more so.

As far as what I remember both DAP and Vulcan telling me they get there pumps from Industrial Injection. I just did a VP44 pump and forgot to look at the box it came in.

I have the rare chance to get to use them but I've never had any issues other than the spit back it can do. Lot of time the fuel is flowing so fast and foams up the tank pretty good and when it rushes back out the filler neck it can make a huge mess. Then if you trying to top off it tend to be really hard to flow slowly to top off the tank. BURP! Again down the side of your truck.

Another picture of the faces and mounting options... Cubby hole, Gauge Pod or Flat mount to a drilled hole...

That's for the LED function. If you want you can hook it up to keyed power or +12V for the LED to remind you that MPG mode is on...

I just found the gauge pod version... Buried in the box...

No Demo... Actual product...

Here is the link on the DAP... http://www.dieselautopower.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=high+idle

Best I can say is contact DAP and find out...

Update 10/15/15! The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High idle switches are for sale again in the Forum store

Had one of those excellent stoves till it cracked around the damper control. Mine was fireplace insert slightly different. Hard to explain that fire call here.

No grease... No corrosion... Just a bit dirty.

#1 Diesel is normally found in Northern states and up into Canada... Good catch W&F...

You'll catch me for sure now. Mine's been parked for about 1 month now and only gotten fuel once in the month time. But I might catch you with the 1996 Doge Ram 1500 now...

Just for fun... I snapped a pic of all 3 wood burners... Guest House Shop Stove Main House Then the wood piles... Dry wood... Approx 4 cords left Semi-dry wood about 3 cords Wet unsplit wood about 3 cords.

Sound like a Internet myth. APPS sensor codes or dead pedal would be cause from APPS signal out of functional range. Heat should have nothing to do with it being the truck is in baking summer heat without a issue. So why would summer heat be fine and winter front heat be bad? Make you think?

No block off plate. But the chimney is sealed up top and insulated pipe all the way down. So heat can't fly up the chimney. I've got a magnetic Pipe gauge but its out on the shop stove being I use it more right now. Ugh... Glass doors... I've got one on the shop stove and hate it. Always soot covers and have to be careful of that log sticking out just a bit and breaking the glass. With both of the steel doored stove I can stuff wood in no biggy if some thing is in the way of the door just kick it shut. Do that with a glass door (BOOM!) the glass is gone and a now a new problem happens with how do you keep the fire in the box? Also this was brought up at the last fire call. (Chimney fire). With a steel box you can spray a short burst of water in a steel box and slam the door shut and the steam will go up the chimney and put out the chimney fire. Do that with a glass door stove you now blow the glass out and have a house fire to boot! So in this case we had to unload the stove into a steel pan because the air damper was broke and defunct on this call. So carrying live fire in a pan outside was very smoky and PITA!

Last time I seen the specs on Chevron Fuel in Idaho it was good for temps down to -20*F (winterized).

Here is what is in the guest house... Stainless steel stack all the way up. The chimney guy (Heartland Chimney) broke out the damper of the old fireplace and routed a fresh stainless steel stack in.

I grab a video next time I do it... Just got done doing a buddies Kia by myself bleeding the system out and flushing the lines. No running back and forth just crack, hook, pump, close, fill and done.

Well you should base you fuel on what you expect for climate. If your expecting really cold temps in the minus then I would be looking towards getting #1 Diesel. If your mild kind of like myself you can run Winterized #2 Diesel. If its summer time and cold weather is less likely I would opt for the BioDiesel. If you had for facts on the BioDiesel being sold and its cloud and pour point temps then I would consider its use for colder weather.