Mopar1973Man

I'd never run 1/2" line into the cab even for a gauge. Maybe tiny 1/8" line on a needle valve when it would most likely only drip if it broke open 1/2" would be like a flood. I'd highly reconsider that...

Depends on your computer skills and other skills you might have. Like myself I make a few bucks here and there doing web site management and computer repairs (remotely on Linux). Like after schooling myself up on the Linux side I found several ways of making a few bucks with odd jobs at least. Best part I don't have to drive anywhere now.Since the economy is so uncertain I don't rely on just one job possibility but constantly looking for other jobs. Mostly during the winter time I look more towards the computer end but come summer time I look towards truck and firewood more so. But I've been hired to much more than that like Branding cows, fencing, wildland fire fighting, etc. Like Sunday I installed a VP44 for a local gent and made a few bucks.

My thought are as long as you cooling system is closed and not leaking then the minerals don't count either. Since I've been using creek water and well water for the cooling system the amount of minerals are measured in PPM in amount. But if you have a leaking system where water is constantly added now you would have the distilling of the mineral on the block as well. Since my truck doesn't leak coolant the block is still clean from what I can see from different openings. As for the electrolysis depending on what you need to do you can either strip metals aways or add metals. same principal about chrome plating or rust removal.Some where on the site is a article about rust removal I think Flagmanruss posted it.

PM sent.

I lost... This is a few years ago passing through New Meadows, ID. I'm holding the low limit history.

The only thing I use distilled water in is my batteries. Never used distilled water in my cooling system on any vehicle including ATV's, motorcycles, etc. The only time I've ever seen mineral build up is when someone starts skipping flushes and allows the electrolysis to oxide the metals. Typically that when the coolant starts to change rusty color from oxidation that starts from a corrosive coolant. (hi or lo pH number) I actually agree with this. It could be possible...

I actually got about 1-2 inches of snow here and I fired up my ATV and plowed a few driveways in the neighborhood. The biggest thing is to turn up the gravel for the friends and neighbors because skiing your car down a steep driveway can be spooky. So I left my blade down on the ATV and stirred up the gravel for them. But man getting the last house done and my toes and ears were cold I mean COLD. Even at +10*F this morning and 30-40 MPH on a ATV it sure does blow right through you. Ugh!

I'm not even worried... :neutral:Too many miles between us and too many differences. Don't get me wrong I still think YabbaDoo is great gal but I've also had my fair share of bad relationships and even lost a step-son to unknown brain virus at the age of 7 year old. As for having friends of both male and female that fine with me. But as for marriage or deep relationship... Naw... Not happening you guys can beat that drum all you want but not me. As for the stove idea. I would love to see more of the beastly looking stove and different designs. As a matter of fact I've got a old stove in my basement but I would never want to put a fire into. The stove is not air tight but my Dad refurbished it and it looks nearly brand new.Excuse the dusty appearance...

Heat wave here +22*F with 79% humidity at 9:21 MST...

Well at 70 MPH it sure changes but when winter time is around we typically don't have highway conditions to drive 70 MPH. Let be realistic here too can 70 MPH be done on snow covered roads or icy conditions safely? Not to mention the only place I know in the entire state of Idaho that is 75 MPH are the interstates and they are not around here. But cold weather won't degrade city driving or rural driving very much. I think it going to be mostly fluid drag. (Gear lubes etc.)Everything from 55 MPH changes very drastic... Most all site I've been across all state the same thing that regardless drag is exponential and climbs a steep curve after 55 MPH.

Mostly plugged passages. As for me I can't say its the mineral in the water since I'm using tap water and creek water in my truck and still never had a issue with a cooling system or heater core. I will admit I had to change my heater core because of a cracked tube (vibration / movement damage) not a plugged heater core or rotten heater core. So I really can't base my heater core as a good test bed but the radiator is spotless internally yet.

I've seen this a few times where people claim that cold weather will produce more drag on a vehicle just the cold dense air. So just for the fun of it I went and did the calculation on just the air drag part of it. Not factoring in other loses like fluid thickening... Here is the formulas I used Drag http://www.thefintels.com/aer/dragcalc.htm Air Density http://www.denysschen.com/catalogue/density.aspx Dodge Ram Specs including Drag Coefficient http://www.pickuptrucks.com/html/ram_specs.html So using local information and building a test bed on this. Vehicle - 2nd Generation Dodge Ram 2500 truck Test #1 Winter (Column C) Stats [*]+10*F Temperature [*]90% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]45 MPH (Road conditions locally) Test #2 Summer (Column B) Stats [*]+100*F Temperature [*]10% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]65 MPH Test #3 Comparing both using both summer and winter conditions. (Columns E & F) Which this shows roughly 4.659 MPH difference between winter and summer condition will be nearly equal in drag. Just for fun compare 55 and 65 MPH...

Created a write rather late but here it is... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8814-Heater-Core-Performance

Opps... My bad I was looking at both the 200w and 100w series.I wonder what the total temp will be at the VP44? 200*F is a bit excessive...

That's part of the E-brake cable assembly.Funny part looking at all the cables on RockAuto.com none of them have that spring. I know what your talking about. But strange not to see it on the new cables.

I wonder how hot these get being a 100w (16.6 Amp load @ 12 V DC)?

Even up here in Idaho I've been close to the minus numbers for the week and because of my location of the filters I'm much more immune to the gelling problem. Sad thing is short bed brackets are no longer sold.

https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vj9n5Ee88U

Another crazy thought do you have a small pin hole that is spraying coolant from a heater hose towards that fender and causing that?

Well technically this is not my primary truck for driving typical it just that fuel prices are wacky again so I'm using the gas powered truck more so why gasoline is cheap. But Since I rarely ever use the 4WD and notice it was violent about releasing I'm not expecting to to major overhaul of the engagement system since it still engages just fine. It just the release is violent and doesn't want to release in a timely fashion so it keeps the axle locked excessive period of time and with a loud THUNK! you hear the axle release and all is good. I guess I'll have to get off my rear end tomorrow and get the shop heated up and get it looked at so I can finish this thread out. It seem the vacuum lines are hooked up but I'll check to see if the vacuum is actually there or not.

With the key ON but engine not running check your tapped wire for +12V.

Right near +10*F as of tonight and still fuel is flowing in the truck by morning it will be -5*F roughly here. In all the years and nasty winter with temps down to -20*F to -25*F never had a gelling issues yet but I'm extremely picky about where I buy fuel and quiz the fuel station owners about PPD (Pour Point Depressants) and there usage in there fuels.How else do you think I got this picture?

I'm suppose to get mine here in the near future Ed Grafton is suppose to send it out ASAP so I can post up pictures and articles. The gauge pod unit is suppose to slide in like a normal gauge pod. I wish I could help out more but I'm still waiting for my units so I can complete the write up, articles, instructions and diagnostics. I wish I could help more.

Well Gang. I've been seen these goofy threads about people trying to figure out if a heater core is functional or plugged up. So since I took my truck to town for a job I figure I do the bench testing for the heater core to let you know what a good functional heater core will do. So measuring the vent temperature from the center vents with Bi-Level setting I measured...Fan Lo - 160*F roughlyFan Hi - 150*F roughlyOutside temperature - +10*FEngine Coolant Temperature - 193-195*FAs for the heater hoses they should not both be equally hot. I checked mine after driving about 6 miles from town stopped at a rest area and left the blower on Hi and felt both hoses. The hose from the head is very hot and you can only hold it for a short period before the heat burns your hand. As for the other hose that routes under the turbo in the steel tube that hose is warm but you can hold on to it for a very long time without even letting go. I see several threads where people say that if both hoses are hot the heater core is functional. This is wrong there should be a exchange of heat/cold with the heater core so one hose should always be cooler which is the return line from the heater core. If both hoses are equally hot then the heater core is not exchanging heat/cold and not flowing optimally. So I figure I'd throw this tidbit out there for everyone and hopefully help others diagnose heater core performance issue.

Out here the roads are spotted black ice might have a 100 yards or 1 mile stretch of ice. Instead of in and out of 4WD I gotten used to just backing down the speed travel the slick areas cautiously and then when in the clear pick up the speed to what I'm comfortable with. Thanks to ISX. Black vacuum line is to engage and the red to disengage. Posi-lock is way over the top. Once again this is a low budget truck that has zero value where something like my Cummins still holding excellent value I can and would do something like that if I had a CAD axle. But this 96 Dodge the blue book... Well look for yourself it's not worth the effort.