Mopar1973Man

Warmer air in the winter has helped my rig. I found that optimal is about 100-140*F IAT temperature. Filter performance is as good or better than any washable filter I can clear at least 100k miles out here on Idaho dirt roads. But that is my

Enuf Said...

He's not joking either... I know what he's talking about too... I might be lucky to be included in the design process too.

Typically the little blue puff of a smoke would be like valve seals leaking. So like a intake can drip a few times in the cylinder causing the blue puff.

Something isn't set up right. I would go back and check timing on the pump.

Even on a cold winter day I can hold 193-195*F worth of coolant temp and very steady.

Should never increase fuse size to over come a problem this will result most likely either in melted wires or a possible vehicle fire. If the fuse is blowing out there must be something causing a over-current condition. Pinched wires to ground, locked rotor in the fuel pump, internal issues to the pump motor. Etc. Should always use the same size fuse or smaller. This way you never end up with a vehicle fire or mess of melted wires.

Manual NV4500 hold 1 gallon and so does my rear diff. Yes I've extended my interval sometimes up wards to 40-45k miles if the fluid was not dark yet. Like on the 1996 I just extended them as well the fluid is still honey colored when I last sampled it. (Mobil Petroleum 80w-90 GL-5). I do tow but not right at GCWR of 20,000 pounds but 16,000 to 17,000 is pretty dang good pull when you start hauling up and down grade of 16% in the mountains here. My intervals are based between color, contamination, and mileage. If color and contamination but are good then push the mileage up another 5k miles. If the color or contamination is getting poor skip the mileage part and dump it now and change.

G107 is located behind the starter and bolted to the block of the engine you can't visually see this ground till you remove the starter.

From the end user perspective its a bit different. Most get the idea its synthetic I never have to inspect the fluid at all for 100k miles or even worry about it. This is one of the common down falls. So now the end user changes the differentials fluid tops it off good to go 100k. As long as its not leaking out the owner is happy. Opps... Bad thinking. So many times I've open up differentials around here found them overly contaminated in form or other. Just because its synthetic means you still have to do the inspections of the fluid level and color and check for contamination of the fluid.

Thank you for stepping forward. I'm sure there is others here as well that appreciate the leadership for spiritual matters.

Not sure. Thinking outside the box. I would have to say the CEL light is tripped and the instrument cluster was told the tach signal is faulty with the P0336 code and so the cluster is no longer reading the tach till the P0336 code is clear or dealt with. Remember the instrument panel has its own software like the ScanGauge II but also has its own rules it has to listen to as well so in the cause I would has to take a educated guess at the software holding the tach off.

Ok. So verify there is power here at the yellow/white and black/white connectors. You'll need need to bump the stater to get power flowing for this plug. The first key on pump bump doesn't matter nor does it mean anything. It after the ECM sees crank signal and what it does after that.

That's a old school scare... When you buy a oil pressure gauge it comes with the very same nylon tubing kit and your hooking up 0-80 PSI oil pressure line from the engine. There is never been threads or even a discussion on any of the diesel site of a direct plumbed oil pressure gauge blowing out in the cab. But now post about fuel leak in the cab its a major problem. "Oh my gawd the sky is falling"... But what about that direct plumbed oil pressure gauge its still direct plumbed to the engine? Now with mine its direct plumbed as well with the needle valve and barely cracked open if the line was to crack or open it would barely drip because of the needle being closed as far as it is. Also if there was a failure just close the valve problem contained. As for spraying out fuel you'd have huge issues with 80 PSI of unrestricted oil pressure! As for protecting your install just use 1/8" air brake line is burst rating is some where around 600-800 PSI and this is most commonly used on big rig truck for oil pressure gauges too. (Food for thought)

Right about HERE!

Yes. There is a limit to all flash programmers. They have to work within the fuel table of the ECM and its limits. Hence the 60-65 HP Limit because it doesn't expand the fuel table beyond 20 PSI of boost. It just uses the last known figure on the table. Here is a example of what I mean. So the red area typically would be your defueling and error code range. The Smarty converts these values into working map. But if the truck operates above these value the ECM just uses the last known value of the table because it can't see beyond that. It also has to play by all the rules of the ECM and VP44 software. This why boxes like Edge and Quadzilla are so popular. Because now when a Edge Product gets to the end of the ECM fueling table the module takes over and calculates its own fuel map above and beyond the ends of the ECM. Since the data would cause a error for sure on the normal CANBUS it fed into the VP44 by the wire tap. This way the module can module the timing and fuel pulse length by reshaping the pulse.

I normally use just plain old clear silicone in a caulking gun. (RTV) stands for Room Temperature Vulcanization...

I see Dripley took my clue. I ran till 30k miles and didn't even look dirty for fuel filters.

You could download a service manual and get the procedure on how to do it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/7157-file-downloads/?hl=downloads

Here is the brake pressure test gauge by Summit Racing. Here is the boiling point information http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

I say anytime you drop the transmission pan you should always adjust the bands and inspect the condition of them as well. Foolish not to adjustment them while the pan is down.

Yea... AH64ID is right. 14-20 PSI is optimal. 10-14 PSI is marginal. Then anything below 10 PSI is damaging. It's like saying the Cummins engine will function at 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle and 30 PSI at 2k RPM's. So how long do you expect the engine is going to last running at bare minimum oil pressures?

Personally I don't see any reason for synthetics lubes but use standard 80w-90 GL-5 gear lube for my standard open differential axles. If you have a Limited Slip then you have to consider lube with the friction modifier or get buy the friction modifier separately. Being that petroleum lubes have done a excellent job up to 224k miles and no failures and excellent MPG's (Highmark at 27.2 MPG last summer).

Remember if you using a exhaust brake on the stock turbo your going to be stuck there with the stock turbo unless you upgrade to a inline exhaust brake. With my +50HP Injectors and Edge Comp I'm pretty close to limits as well EGT's and boost wise. So I would say Wild and Free is close to the mark as well.

Like on the Edge Juice the setting is where full defuel is at. So if you set at 1,200*F then it start defueling at like 1,000*F and tapering off till it gets to 1,200*F and at full defuel. So just like a limit on boost set the boost limit like at 32 PSI its start defueling at say 22-25 PSI and works it way to full defuel. So now if you had both set up now you would have two separate defueling curves affecting the upper end power. Once again its best to just disable all limits and alarms.