Mopar1973Man

It always helps to remove the electronics from the engine first before changing sensors. All so often I find Edge modules throwing weird code but with the module gone the problems are gone.You might talk to Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) about your Quadzilla he might be able to fix it for you.

I gather its a electric gauge if so the sender failed you while ago. Neither are normal. I would verify with a mechanical gauge. Electrical gauge are prone to failure without the owner knowing as the sender takes on water hammer pulses it starts to either drift higher or lower in pressure or stick. Even my truck I see 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT and also see pressure changes with fuel temperature colder is lower and hotter is higher.

Dribbling line is not pumping. When a VP44 is actually pumping it will create at least 4,500 PSI at idle so dribbling doesn't count. As for the P1689... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 [h=2]Possible Causes[/h] [*] Wiring & Connectors [*] Fuel Injection Pump Relay Output Circuit Open [*] Ground Circuit Open Or High Resistance [*] Datalink (+) Circuit Open [*] Datalink (+) Circuit Shorted To Ground [*] Datalink (-) Open [*] Datalink (-) Shorted To Ground [*] ECM Might still have a bad ECM and have to call warranty on it.

I would just have the injector pulled and tested. Then you'll know exactly where you stand with the injectors. If one is bad you might well replace the other 5 injectors.

If a pump has signs of being opened the pump core is denied. So if you send me a pump you not going to be able to use for a core.

I've heard rumors that a 12V tappet cover fits on a 24V engine and you could do that and plug the front cover then.

Hot battery is a sign of a internal short and the battery should be replaced. To verify disconnect both battery in the evening and leave stand over night and measure both batteries in the morning the hot battery will most likely be near dead.

Absolutely correct!

The problem with yours is be careful of the angle issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather If you happen to be on downgrade and panic stop it will flood out your catch can and spill huge amount of oil. I've seen losses of up to 1 gallon before I made my version. Just from traveling down hill with a load of firewood and avoid hitting a deer or other vehicle stomp on the brakes and just make a huge mess of the front of the truck as the oil rushes forward and drain out the vent. But like said above each their own...

Here is the guts of a VP44. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view

I mounted mine rear of the transfer case to keep the filters guarded from debris and also block as much cold wind from blowing across the filter. I typically see -20*F to -30*F for cold temps here in Idaho. Then I kept my stock filter housing for the added heat. Even through the heater is after the AirDog the fuel returned to the fuel tank is heated from the block and fuel heater some more so the returned fuel will warm the tank up. No there is no problems with plumbing a 150 GPH pump through the stock filter I only see 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT.

I'm going to get him to rule out the injectors next before pulling the engine open. Bearing/rod doesn't create white smoke issues from the exhaust. That's what got me stumped is the smoke is combined with the knock.

I heard of this before. There is a few ECM from 98.5 to 99 that are not Smarty capable and tend to take on flash damage. Your delay to the WAIT TO START is because of the ECM is not booting up in a timely matter so the ECM software isn't functional till the WAIT TO START even gets lit up. The only way to fix it is to replace the ECM. If the WAIT TO START light was blown or damaged there would be a P0381 code.

Roughly 400-450 PSI across the board. Pepsi has been trying to pin down a smoke and knock problem.

I think the tool..

Another one to talk to is Dave Goerends... http://www.goerend.com/

I'm also running the Southbend Con OFE clutch and its very solid clutch works very well for towing and heavy applications.

That's kick story. It nice to see good folks are still out there... Tell your uncle that we all "Thank" him for his service as well!

Ughh...Riggins, ID - GAS - 3.329 - Diesel - 4.069New Meadows, ID GAS - 3.429 - Diesel 4.229McCall, ID - GAS - 3.409 - Diesel 4.209

When you look at the tight tolerances pf the CR injectors I would be picky about filters. Kind of like half the battle for a VP44 pump too is keeping the fuel clean as it enters the pump. For you guys with CR injectors I would opt for quality filters than common place filter that might lessen the life span...

Like AH64ID has pointed out that average life span of the CR injectors it might be a good idea to have them tested to be sure they are not lets say borderline functional. It would be a nice piece of mind knowing that the injectors are still serviceable.

PCM's aren't exactly cheap. But I would quiz the provider about warranties and what about returning if there is any issues.

Even 24V's are 300-310 bar for pop pressure. 400 bar is just excessive...

Be careful of the garden hose idea. I've had one report of a heater hose mod that kinked closed over time and blew the tappet cover gasket out and losing large amount of oil when it did blow out. Truck required to be towed for repairs..