Mopar1973Man

You can prove it to yourself by unhooking the Alternator and taking a test drive if the problem goes away you found your issue. To do this remove the alternator fuse and the field lead from the back of the alternator.

Becareful of the sump idea. If you use your truck offroad you might yank that right off the bottom of your tank. Also you might check into local laws about bottom fed tanks.

That is the one and only 2002 I've heard of a KDP failure. It was suppose to be fairly rare by 2001.

From what I learned from a write up on another site. You can run just about anything for fluid in the trans but there is a catch. The Dodge Factory fluid is a GL-4 fluid and its rated for 100k miles between changes. But if you using any GL-5 fluids it does attack the syncro's over time so as the writeup suggested was to change GL-5 fluids at 30k miles and Dodge factory fluids every 100k miles. Being I'm at 224k miles and rolling with the Cummins and never had a 5th gear nut problem with all the heavy hauling, towing, etc. I say stick to the factory fluid. We know its design for it...

Eeekkk! Change both. Coolant doesn't matter on appearance what matters is the pH level. Fresh coolant will be right close to pH of 7.0. If you want to extend coolants I highly suggest you test the coolant with pH test strips made for coolant. Once coolant degrade it starts eating everything. By the time you see the rusty color its way too late. Coolant was still nice and green in my 96 and it was still factory coolant with 112k miles. Opps... Too late it already started. Power Steering fluid does break down with heat and pressure. So over time the fluid starts to fail then parts start to wear and BOOM. Now the steering box or htdro-booster is feeding everything else debris (metal particles). Since there is no filter it doesn't take very long for the debris to wipe out a system. Any fluid that is discolor including brake fluid it broke down...

Even on my 2002 rig I got 150k miles of washboard road use. I love the sealed bearing because less to go wrong but the price of them... Wow!

You might have to consider calling around to a local trailer shop and seeing what they have for plugs and such. Like myself if I've got to do it again I would head down to BigTex factory in Nampa, ID and just pickup a new cord for a trailer. All sealed connector and cord.

Nice. That's starting to look good. Q: Did you seal the ends of the tubing where the wires come out with silicone?

Nothing right now just odd shifting but get much more than 0.1 Volts AC then damage start occuring. I'm not absolute about this but more AC noise the more damage.

Other problem is once you get into a Smarty it tunes are more power up than smoke control either. So now on the Edge Comp there is 3 sublevel that are smoke control and 2 sublevels that are powered modes. Like daily driving I'm using 5x3. Gives my all the smoke control but excellent power as well. Now once winter and icy roads come on I got to flip down to 5x2 or or lower to lag the turbo from lighting up to keep traction going. Something Smarty can't do without stopping, plugging in, flash, OPPS! Flash just messed up and ate your ECM. Now you walking home. Just a risk I don't want being I have no cell service out here and walking several mile in blowing cold (-20*F) might become very deadly. If the Edge Comp dies I just unplug and keep rolling failures are modular and can be removed my way. So I go home with only +50HP injectors.The other problem I figured out is that Smarty and un-tapped modules play by the same rules. So they can't really math out fuel tables above 20 PSI this why they are flat power wise on top. ECM table is design for stock power all Smarty and other modules do is re-write the boost table not to throw codes and only the stock table there is no room for 20 and above PSI hence the 60 HP limit. So even modules like Diablo Power Puck is the same thing playing with stock ECM tables and just modifying the stock information.The only time you can math out timing and fueling above stock tables is with a wire tap. Hence the timing curves extend well over the 20 PSI boost limit, etc. Now you can modify electronically above the 20 PSI limit by cutting or extending the pulse to the fuel solenoid which the the wire tap goes too. As you can see my choice of module goes well beyond the HP/TQ it considers everything...

Still under 0.10 AC Voltage... I would unhook the field and the alternator fuse as well... Test drive.

Reason why I never go on with the Smarty or flash programmers because of the simple reason you need to shut down, run the programmer and start back up. Doesn't work for me because I would be changing flashes way too much with winter weather.Then no-tapped boxes are limited to 60-65 HP period because you have to play by the rules of the ECM. So that is a limiting factor.So now Edge Comp, Edge Juice, Quadzilla, etc. All these boxes have a tapped setup wider range of control of fuel and timing. Then on the fly adjustments without shutting down and flashing.

Kind of got you beat to the punch... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

No diode on mine. Either use the stick into reverse and get backup lights or click the switch and step out and get backup up lights.

Did you ever have your current ones pop tested?

I normally do like Wild & Free and seat everything good and snug and take off for a good long ride. Get it nice and hot come back mop the manifold and check. Then check it again the next day typically the fuel is gone and everything is dried up. But Wild & Free is right it's like there is a small pool of fuel behind the injector line nut that starts expanding and bleeding out over the manifold like a slow weep. Usually last 1 day and its gone.

No. Fuel wise in just straight even day ethanol fuel 87 Octane. (I copied it from the 02 MPG report over here and missed deleting that line - Line now deleted!) Other that that I've got low rolling resistance tire on this truck and cutting drag anywhere I can.

Normal its the grid heater hitting. The grid heater draw about 195 Amp which is more than the alternator can produce so hence the voltage falls while the grid heaters are on then creep back up when they turn off. Then after driving it over 20 MPH it cancels the grid heater software and turns the grid heaters off till next key cycle.

Ok... Now using my test run like the 2002 Dodge I'm running the same grocery trip to McCall, ID.Vitals I can give...1996 Dodge Ram 1500 - 5.9L Magnum V8 - 46RE Automatic Trans - Mopar Performance PCM - 3.55 Gear Ratio - Scaled 5,200# Fuel: 87 OctaneTrip: 108 Miles TraveledCargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (200#), 1/2 Tank of fuelHigh Temp Outside: 35*FSpeed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH.IAT: varied from 95-105*F.Coolant Temp: 191-193*F Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 43 PSI - Rear Axle: 29 PSIElevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx.Home: 2,800 Feet measured.Going up I used 3rd Gear all the way from home to McCall, ID then at select times that I could I would use 4th gear (OD) on the way down. Tmg - Total For the Tank - 19.4 MPGCmg - Today's MPG - 19.8 MPG

You might add a manual backup light switch. This becomes handy so you can flip the backup lights on for hitching trailers or just flood lights for what ever reason.

Or a out of balanced tire.

You could follow my lead. I'm +50HP injectors and Edge Comp...

Oh... Even those I just snug up a bit and not get carried away being its a hollow bolt. The copper washers are there for sealing not to be crushed to dust.

XGauge... All you got to do is read the manual under the XGauge setting and get the Current MPG for the Day and the Total MPG for the Tank as XGauges and then just select them as Gauge to display.

Bleed screws. I just seat the screws then choke way up on the wrench add a few inch/pound of force at most and call it good. Then cap the tips off so water doesn't rust out the screws. If you don't have caps make some out of vinyl tubing. Just heat the end with a cigarette lighter and then squeeze with a pair of pilers done.