Mopar1973Man

As for the over charging issues there is something grounding the green lead? If so then the alternator will be in full runaway mode. The blue wire is the power supply to excite the rotor in the alternator. So at the GEN SOURCE and the GEN FIELD of the PCM would be where you hook the External Voltage Regulator. As you can see you need the blue wire which is the 12V and the Green wire is going to be a variable ground. If its shorted to ground then you got a runaway alternator. So I would think the regulator is fried if so.

More times out of ten the suction line from the lift pump to the fuel tank is where the air leak starts at typically. When it does develop a air leak the fuel never leaks outwards and typically will have dry lines and no sign of problems. But now pressure the fuel system and now you'll see the wet spots form. What I suggest is get the truck running and pressure the fuel tank with 1-2 PSI of air through the filler neck and then have a partner crawl around looking for the wet spot. Reason I suggest having the truck running is if the fuel suction line is leaking air in that means if you pressure the fuel tank it may or may not run fuel back out. But if the fuel system is flow to and from the engine and you pressurize the system it should show quickly.

I didn't I just made sure the head and the area around the holes was clean and reused mine. But I do know there was a TSB for connector tube for the 98.5 and 99 year trucks because it was easy to deform the tubes tighten the lines up.

Something about the regulators on the Raptor pumps and the AD 165's that are goofy... I've seen this a bunch but never heard of what causes it nor the fix for it.

Smarty is one of the most safest programmers I know of. But still weird things can happen to disable ot hang the ECM from rebooting again. So Yeah I've tried a Smarty (Bob Wagner's) and was impressed with power gains but the clutch at the time didn't like it. So I return to stock and mailed it back. So not to discount the Smarty... But I tend to feel safer with wired in electronics than flashed in. But if the Smart UDC came out for the 24V's I would be interested then. Better way of tuning the timing tables that what I got now.

Do a instrument cluster test. If the cluster is getting a different reading its because I think the PCM is screwed up and mis-reporting the voltage of the system.

Personally... I would high suggest you take that K&N out and throw it in the trash. Not a good filter at all. I've seen way too many good Cummins ruin with blow by problems because the K&N filter just wore the ring off the pistons which in turn now push more oil out the breather tube. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter

No. Typically the WTS light should always come for a bulb check even for a few seconds. But I was wonder want the ECM was seeing or what???

Like over at CumminsForum there is a craze to install group 31 batteries right now. Everyone is in the CCA race now trying to get over 2000 CCA's in the truck. The rule of thumb is you need at least twice as many CCA's as your worse starting load. These truck typically measure out at 700 amps load at 0*F so all you need is 1400 CCA's worth of batteries. Like myself I've got two 810 CCA's for a total 1620 CCA's. Spending twice as much on a 31 batteries is not going to make the batteries last longer. That's all based on if you take care of the batteries properly in the first place.

My Nv4500 when I installed the shift tower seal up-side-down then mine leaked like no tomorrow I could add a quart every 100-200 miles easy. All it took was ordering a new seal and pay attention to which way it goes together.

There is a few things here to remember...Volt gauge is getting the information from the CCD network just like the ScanGauge II. Now the mechanical needle could be out of position. Or the Instrument cluster is not translating it accurately. :shrug:DVM at the batteries is the best bet. Yes. Even my ScanGauge II vs. Dash shows 2 different numbers as well. Worse on the 96 than the 02.

Correct.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=401FaKYvJ6c

Sorry for the lag. Something is wrong with the setup of the external voltage regulator. The first thing is the blue lead is suppose to be positive voltage +12. Typically you can tap the existing blue lead for this 12 volts. As for the green wire it should be only hooked between the alternator and the new regulator. The old green should be disconnected. P1682 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low P0622 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/205-p0622-generator-field-not-switching-properly p0500 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal p1765 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/388-p1765-trans-12-volt-supply-relay-cntrl-circuit p0501 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/191-p0501-vehicle-speed-signal-rationality The 1765 and P0622 worry me. You should look into those a bit deep and see if there is a blue wire supply problem.

Like both my RV and house batteries both have 3 stage chargers on them. Normal float chargeBulking chargeMaintenance / Equalizing ChargeNormal float charge is typically 13.0 to 13.2Bulking charge is 14.3 to 14.5Equalize is typically a over charge. My house system is 30 Volts (24 volt system) and RV is 14.8 to 15.0. Equalizing is important because this process causes the battery to boil slightly stirring the distilled water and acid back together. Being that truck batteries typically do see this I will pull my battery cables and throw a charger on for about 1-2 hours and high charger to reach 15 or so volts. This is a normal maintenance thing for wet cell batteries because the electrolyte will stratify or separate and rot the lower parts of the plates out. So this stirs the electrolyte back together and reclaims a small part of sulfation of the plates too.

If you going to use any battery maintainer make sure to check the electrolyte levels monthly. Even though most battery chargers tend to charge at a very low rate and very safe the battery will still vent moisture from the battery over time and dry out. Event the battery bank here at the house uses about 1-2 quarts of distilled water a month. My Rv uses about 4-8 ounces of distilled water a month and so does the truck. This is one reason why AGM and sealed batteries tend to fail at a shorter life span vs. wet cell batteries because no matter what you do or how slow you charge the battery it will vent moisture as the cells warm and expand. This will never change. Now once the plates are allowed to dry or partial dry then the cell is ruined permanently. Even if you re-load with distilled water and recharge it ruined it will never have the same capacity again. Batteries are a weird animal being they create large amount of current flow chemically between lead plates and acid/water mixture. As the battery discharges then the chemical changes occur to the plates and the electrolyte mixture. So yes. Its best to keep it on a charger. But remember to keep an eye on the electrolyte levels and you'll get long life from your batteries. My first set of OE batteries went 10 years and could of gone farther but didn't want to push.

I just use 100w fog lights instead of modding the stock headlights. I was kind of happy about that last night with the heavy snow storm and them being mounted below the front bumper. Very easy to see long distance compared to the factory head lights.

Your can't because too much torque is lost in the ... Your tires are too tall, too heavy and too wide.

Mom and I will send our prayer as well...

That's the ultimate stack set up. Myself I'm running Edge Comp and RV275's and got excellent power, Good MPG's, excellent street manners (little to no smoke at all), and enough power to break the tires loose in 2nd and 3rd gears.

Just because the alternator is new or even rebuilt I always suggest bench testing before you leave the store. Sure it bad o go through all the trouble and get it installed to find another bad diode. It just best to test before you leave the store.Split the case in half and the diodes are typically just bolted to the rear case. Few screws and wires and change yourself if you can buy the diodes. When I was a pup I use to rebuild the 73 Dodge Charger alternator myself because brushes where about 10-12 bucks and diodes where like 20 bucks. Cheaper than 110 for a new alternator.

Simple to fix...Downgrade your brakes to 2nd Gen rotors and grab a set of 16" rims and your good to go... Heck the more I keep playing with tires and rims the more I want to drop down to 215's. Even lighter yet.Since the turbo was installed I swapped back to the 235's and just bounced back to my 23 MPG on my trip down to Ontario, OR and 21 MPG fighting a snow storm home. Just doesn't get any better...

Well I use a lot of products or stuff that most never even heard of. But are typically found in big chain stores. Like Simple Green. If I just posted Zep Orange Degreaser most would be like Huh? No. I wish... Most of all the fund donated to the site is re-invested back in the site one way or another. There is a rare time or two when people send me gifts by snail mail solely for me.

Heck I just drove the last hour home from Ontario, OR in near white conditions. 235's held up fine. Mine are not even a mud / snow tire but a trailer tire with a Load Range G (3,750# 14 ply). Excellent tire for on-road use but don't stand up to the dirt roads to well.

235/85 R16's