Mopar1973Man

No. That's a friend's kid...

Hmmm...Fuel supply pressure? 6-10 PSI is typical.Air Filter?Timing is possible but special tools are needed to set the timing.Injectors are dirty and carboned up?AFC diaphragm has a hole or tear?Boost leak?

It not based on how cold your winters are. It based on what temperatures do you see in the summer time for IAT? So what your average summer temp +40*F would be a close guess to the size of resistor you want. Like myself I see 110-115*F in Riggins, ID quite often so 110 + 40 = 150*F. That would be my high mark temp. So typically IAT range 100-140*F for most people in the summer.

Not for me... There still here.

I'll have to draw up the schematic in my head on how to include the MPG fooler with the high idle setup.

Wow! I must a Redneck then with my saw sticking up out of the pile would in the back of the truck. Yes. No one I mean no one touches my saw for tuning or repairs... I will be the only one to sharpen my chain! As for me I like long wood... Also the Cummins has a second life of being a Cummins Skidder.

Easier to pick out a resistor and stuff it in the plug. But remember this will disable the grid heaters. [TABLE][TR][TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

I'm not absolutely sure but I would say start at 4.00 volts and work your way up slowly 0.1 at a time till the code trips then you'd know the limit. When you do find this limit post back here for future reference.

Go big or go home... I went home big!Take notice to the 7 year kid standing behind the tree...

All for EPA and CARB reasons...

When forest fires are a good thing... Lots of firewood now!

Ouch...

That's call a FPCM (Fuel Pump Control Module).

Different animal again. Because it first off naturally aspirated and number two the fuel doesn't require activate heat energy to fire the fuel it uses a spark plug to ignite the fuel. Then on top of that gasoline flash point is seriously low so its easy to ignite regardless of outside temperature. So now looking back at diesels you need glow plugs or grid heater to warm the air enough to even start it. Then your trying to fire the fuel on the active heat energy created by the cylinder compression. Then the fuel itself has to be ignited by autoignition temperature (compression) and not flash point (spark plug). So the colder the air gets the harder it is to ignite the fuel. So to compensate for this is why the manifold is pre-heated by coolant, grid heaters, and hotter thermostats compared to previous years since the 24V SO engine has the LOWEST compression ratio to all other Cummins engines at 16.3:1 (HO is 17.0:1) so the heated air is a welcomed sight. The autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will ignite decreases as the pressure increases or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture. The flash point of a volatile material is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air. Measuring a flash point requires an ignition source. At the flash point, the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed. The flash point is not to be confused with the autoignition temperature, which does not require an ignition source, or the fire point, the temperature at which the vapor continues to burn after being ignited. Neither the flash point nor the fire point is dependent on the temperature of the ignition source, which is much higher. The flash point is often used as a descriptive characteristic of liquid fuel, and it is also used to help characterize the fire hazards of liquids. “Flash point” refers to both flammable liquids and combustible liquids. There are various standards for defining each term. Liquids with a flash point less than 60.5 °C (140.9 °F) or 37.8 °C (100.0 °F)—depending upon the standard being applied—are considered flammable, while liquids with a flash point above those temperatures are considered combustible.[1]

Very close to completion of the error code listing but most of the engine codes are present I'm only short a few of the transmission codes.

What would be wrong with carefully prying up slowly on a warm body (inside a shop with heat or using hair drier) and putting a shot of silicone under each one?

Naw... Just makes me think hard in explaining my point a bit better.

ECM is on the driver side of the blockPCM is on the passenger side firewall

When you use a propane weed torch to light you fire. (Lazy man way)When you install a pyrometer on your stove stack to monitor EGT's.When the firewood get parked in the shop...... and the truck is left outside.

Feel the love... Still funny as hell seeing this...Well I hate to say it but I was a Computer Nerd back in 1984 written machine language code for Atari 400 and Atari 800 computers back in the day. I even setup my first BBS in Cally ran it on my Atari 800 computer and 2400 baud modem.The long hair did start till after 6th grade every since then I kept it.I am who I am...PS: MoparMom says, "Picky picky picky.."

So with my winter front I'm gaining more warmer air under the hood aiming to reach 100*F as a minimum for IAT temps. With my winter front I typically see roughly +50*F gain over outside temps so like right now its 32*F so it would be 82*F at the IAT. Close... Then also the IAT fooler on top of it Quadzilla tech even admitted the idea is solid because stable IAT temps will keep the timing table from jumping around. Also that ECM starts to retard timing slightly but then like a Edge Comp module can take advantage of the slack and push the timing forward again because the Edge Comp can modify the timing table after the ECM. Even yesterday with temp as cold as 21-25*F for day time high, winterized fuel, etc. I still got 20.5 MPG. Not bad If I say so myself. So winterize fuel, wind drag and thicker fluids excuse is now blown out of the water. There is a difference between HP/TQ tuning and Economy tuning. For HP/TQ your going to be running high boost pressures creating huge amount of compressor heat for a period of time down a quarter mile track. You looking to cram as much air into the cylinder as possible to make power so yes cold air is the way to go. But for economy tunning where you boost pressure typically float 2-5 PSI and there is no heat created by the turbo and the outside air is freezing cold passing over the intercooler. This retards the burn rate of the fuel. So now adding warmer air to the manifold bring the fuel burn rate back up and give you better economy numbers again.

Bad sign. You've got a ECM that is failing to boot up the software into memory. Typically bad memory chips inside the ECM and will require replacing the ECM.

Increases MPG because it give the illusion of being summer temperatures. Truthfully warmer air always produces better MPGs over colder air. Driveabiltity basically there is not much difference. The IAT fooler all it does is change the timing table.

Hey Gang... I felt I should let you all know that with winter here and snow fall happening... Please slow down! I just got back from a vehicle slide off no one was injured but the vehicle took on damage. All the time of working this doing traffic control people were driving excessive fast on icy roads. Please be careful and slow down. It not worth wrecking your truck for a extra speed. Just leave early and get there safe! Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Gang!

Sounds like fun. To bad I'm too far away.