Mopar1973Man

As you can see MoparMom and myslef have some religous background. I call it the top 10 of God and MoparMom of course "Ten Commandments" which its true name. But still and all "Thou shall not steal" Geez. I look at all the government in the world stealing to become more powerful. This is only one example of the wrong people are doing in this world. (Phone call... Continue later)

What's your engine temp like? The colder the engine temp the highier the idle so if your thermostat is going south and staying cold the idle speed will rise.

Ummm... :think:It's been a long time since I touched my drains... I could even tell you the last time I drained either the AirDog or the stock can.

Too small of a fitting. It would blow the seals out of the crank. The hole has to be 1/2" or larger. Unless you planning on modifing it completely. As for draining it it will take a very long time. To drain diesel fuel out of there takes quite a while to empty. Thick oil will be even longer.

Our local mail person drives a little Subaru Impreza its either 2002 or 2003 model. Well needless to say she came over to visit MoparMom and she mention that her car its making a squeaking noise now this coming from a lady that is 80% deaf. So when she fired up here car I was in the house this thing was SCREAMING! I told her to drive it home and park it. I would come over and deal with it tomorrow. Tomorrow comes and I show up at her place and started working on diagnosing the noise. First thing I did pull the belts off and still screaming and grinding. Uh-Oh! I'm going to have to pull the cam belt covers off and look and see. So I proceeded to pull the covers off and relized I need to pull the dampner off the end of the crank. Oh Great! This isn't like a old Chevy truck where you just reason down and nail the the bolt with a impact gun and whizz it out. There is little to no room. So I created this redneck tool. (I'm showing pictures of the re-assembly and torqueing to 130 ft/lbs)So I get the dampner off and get the remaining cam belt covers off. Everything appears OK in place but there is ton of metal dust and rust. So after rolling the crank around to TDC's of the cams I relize the belt wasn't siting on the idler pulley correctly. Got a flashlight and a better angle of view and barely you can see bearing shrapnel. I told the owner hey you got to see this. So I start twisting the bolt out and pull the pulley out here jaw dropped. Then her jaw hit the floor when she saw the bolt that held the pulley in place. As you can see the bearing had completely failed and seized up then spinning on the bolt till it ate about 50-60% of the bolt.Whats worse is the hole the bolt goes into is all stripped out. Thinking OMG! Ok. The owner is not exactly dumb either she asked, " Can you remove that part and replace it. Well being she got another engine in the back of her shop I looked and sure enough the hole is part of the water pump. Great! All I got to do is pull the water pump and change it. So I started on the other engine so I could see how to get it apart first then moved over to the car. What was really wonderful was that the water pump I popped off the extra engine came off so clean and prefect the gasket was totally undamaged! So I reused it again. I told her was too so she is aware of this. But Got it put back to together and running last night. Then I got back down tonight to finish the oil change I was suppose to do too. So as of tonight she gave me a big ol' hug and was extremely thankful to have her car back and running again. So I know the mail will keep flowing in the canyon.

Well on my way back to a job to finsh up for the evening I was getting back up to highway speed little heavy on the throttle and pulling along rather good and strong then BAM! It fell on it face. I look down and the Edge Comp blinked off for about 1 second and then back on. But there was no power change still flat. I'm thinking the Edge comp finally died on me with a bit more than 5 years of service. So I get to my job and was early so while I was sitting I tried changing the the levels it was locked on 5x3. Huh? So I turn key off and unplugged and replugged the Edge Comp module hoping to clean up the connections a bit. Sure enough I fired it up and Edge Comp responses again. Right on! So I'm going to have to pull the truck in the shop tomorrow and look over my electrical and maybe add a bit of di-electric grease to things. But I figured I would share my tale with you all.

Simpler version use the power studs in the PDC box that the alternator fuse is hooked too. Then find a body ground else where not the battery ground you have connection that won't corrode...

MTX1 do you happen to have a video camera by chance and send us a youtube of what the truck is doing? Might help use all to hear it at least.

TH Racing is a Canadian vendor for the site and he should be able to do you some better prices.

Here are my specs. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs Those specs are loaded. Water tank FULL, all cargo and food for 4-7 days, sewer tanks empty.

Should be really close... When shopping for a 5th wheel always use the GVWR not the dry weight. Then figure 23-25% for the pin weight from the GVWR.

Remember that's 750 per battery (or 1500 CCA for both). The reserve capacity also doubles too.The old school rule of thumb was to have double the CCA worth of batteries for the highest amperage draw your starter could draw. Accordding to FSM the starter draws 450-700 Amps so 700 CCA batteries would be the bottom line.

Not always the batteries that make a difference. Remember I'm one of the few that ran on 10 year old OE batteries into winters down to -25*F.Sometimes your hard start could be starter contacts and brushes, battery cables and connections, or may a mixture of the above. Now as for batteries they are a weird animal. If a battery is discharged below 11.5 volts for a extended period then the battery takes on damage from the discharge and loses a good chunk of either Amp/Hour rating (Deep cycle) or cold cranking amps (starting batteries). Then beyond that, any battery that is a maintenance free is not a good choice. There is no way to maintain electrolyte levels in each cycle this is why I'm not sold on AGM or Optimas. They tend to have a shorter life span because of this flaw.

Go mighty whitety go! Still behind me... 207K...

Yes... Ask any 12V owner...

Most are moving over to the belt driven pumps. http://www.dttdiesel.com/product-p/dttfp.htm From there site... DTT Billet Assassin Fuel System is the most reliable fuel system on the market, its also very easy to install and maintain. Most customers love the fact that is also doesn't make noise like the electric fuel systems. At DTT we build everything from scratch, so that we have complete quality control, and any necessary replacement parts. Kit comes complete, with all necessary lines and fittings for installation. Kit also includes a drawstraw, pulleys, belt, drive bub, and bolts for install. This pump is like a work of art when you see it.

Thank you... It takes team work to do this I can't do it all by myself. I might handle the server stuff but you guys keep the people talking and happy. So thank you in return and Cheers to you as well!

Actually I just got done making a wiring diagram for a 12V 2nd Gen to use a oil pressure switch and both start and run leads from the ignition. It a crude design and untested at this moment but you welocme to try it. trigger relay.pdf

:cheers:Cheer to all of you from Mopar1973Man...As for me. I still continued working on the web site today and split firewood most of the day. But stopped and had a wonderful dinner with MoparMom. Now to go back to working on the web site and maybe tip back a few beers.

Hang around Bluepine we'll help you over the hurdles of life and you truck. But I will highly suggest you stay after the truck and get your own kind of maintenace program going. This way you can at least cover the basics and not have to rely on dealers and mechanics as much. But when something fails or starting to fail get back here and we'll do what we can to talk you through it. Heck if you find some local guys and gals there in Colorado I'm sure they be more than willing to come out and help you through your issues. Even if you have give me a call I'd be more than willing to talk you through or get you to someone that can!Once again welcome to the family and like a family we try and cover each other the best we can.

I talked to a buddy in Louisana (towhungerford) he told me the 12V tappet covers will fit a 24V block so if you which to just change out the cover and put a old school 12V tappet cover on you can...

Ahhh... Another one of those shaft seal problems...

:pray:Keep saying your prayers because a angel must of been watching out for you. As for the vehicles they can be fixed. With all the people here on the site I'm surprised there isn't many up your way.

Intermal trans problem. Bearing or something. I would check the fluid and see if there is metal in the oil. Side note. I've see this in a older military 2 1/2 ton truck. It will push the stick out of gear forcefully even if you your pushing the stick to the dash it would force it out as soon as you release the power. As for cause we never fixed it but got rid of the old fire truck. (Sorry).

Hmmm... The only way I know to verify the Edge Comp would be to send it back to Edge products and let them verify it. As for the battery charger yes you have to be careful with them. How it produces more amps is be increasing the voltage typically. Also most battery chargers are noisy as far as AC noise. So if you had bad cable connections to the battery and turn on your key while the charger was on high it could damage things like the Edge Comp. As for if it actually did or not hard telling till you ship back the module to Edge products for testing.Well at least you got some where with the problem. But I would spend some time looking over the elctrical system closely.