Mopar1973Man

That's scary... I still wouldn't want to do it...

I know this isn't quite right but the first though comes to mind is... Chinese BBQ pork http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQvRe2oHEvh2sqU5XOAKLaYDKXet3OBQPojHiVMjiii7AcaFcu-Xgym7ovz But that's hot mustard. But burns the same way... Still delicous!!!

I tend to agree with AH64ID I think most of it going to be turbo on the exhaust side.

Stock pickup and steel fuel lines are too restrictive need to consider upgrading all of it to 1/2" plumbing. I don't think so yet. I would finish up the upgrade with good 1/2" lines and it should settle down more. I would ditch the stock pickup assembly too and upgrade to 1/2" draw straw as well. If there is any quick connectors I would chop them out and upgrade to Push Loc's and JIC fittings.

Interesting...

Well I'm going to have to double check up here next time I see a state police officer. The maximum lawful speed limit on interstate highways shall not exceed sixty-five (65) miles per hour for vehicles with five (5) or more axles operating at a gross weight of more than twenty-six thousand (26,000) pounds. So a triple axle RV would be bound by the law. Even though you might not meet the weight requirements. So just with that small part of it and the "or" makes it rather grey...

As for Idaho laws it applys to any trailer in tow be it a utility, RV or another vehicle. You might research the towing laws in your state. Like a clue for Idaho is Truck speed limit is towing speed limit. (65 MPH).

Hate to sound like the towing police but to keep you all out of trouble be aware there is towing speed limits for each and every state. Just because the post speed limits is 65, 75, or even 80 MPH doesn't your allowed those speeds with a trailer in tow. http://www.hitchemup.com/statetowinglaws.htm

As for the code here is the docs for it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

I would highly suggest a compression test before doing anything else. One of JLWelding mistakes...

No. But you will need a needle valve and set it up properly or you will eat the sender anyways.

Possible failed injector bleeding down the common rail making it hard on the CP3 to build pressure.

Mine just blew the blub out in it and now its a PITA to see most times. I'm going to carefully attempt to break the case open to repair it.

:lmao:Get me a spoon load and big ol' steak. Yummy!

I'm getting 12-14 hauling my 31' Foot Jayco that weighs roughly 7,500# loaded with water and everything.

So how long till black now is the question?

Huh? Explain yourself?

Cummins ISB engines have a air compressor that mounts in the vacuum/power steering hole. I got a guy in Louisana that is building a P-pumped 24V with a air compressor in a Dodge body. Yes. It does all fit under the hood. :wow:He's got to use a another means for a vacuum pump now but power steering and air compressor.

Question how are you going to prevent water from entering the bottle?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36OkixH0sx8

ATF fluid and filter changes every 30K miles. Then adjust the bands. As for the lock up issues I just got the answer you want. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884

Let put it this way... With my mod I don't loose enough have to add oil. But I do put a few drips on the garage floor. The problem with the factory vent its mostly panic or hard stops that slosh oil out that tube. That why the reverse direction of mine to stop that action as well as up and over the engine to force the oil to try and climb.

If the outside temps are below +60*F and this is first start you should wait for the light. But if the engine is fully warmed up no need to wait just hit the key and go.All the WAIT TO START does it the ECM boots up and detect the manifold temperature if the IAT teemparture is below +60*F then the grid heaters are active for a pre-set amount of time. Then the light goes out after the time. If the IAT temperature is above +60*F then the light only comes on as a bulb check and go back off. How can you tell the grid heater pull the battery voltage way down where the bulb check doesn't.

Here is my $5 to $10 buck fix... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod