Mopar1973Man

That's ISX for you...

About 2 years ago I actually reinstalled my silencer ring for that reason. As for the box I would watch the box and check for dust leaks now and then. If it does leak put a thin coat of grease on the sealing lip of the filter to stop it.

Hmmm... Let me see what I can dig up in my books of goodies and see what I can slap together in the article database.

Common error codes that comes with both Supertech and Smarty programers. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/203-p0602-ecm-fueling-calibration If there is no performance issues and the code disappears when ran stock I wouldn't worry about it.

1996 is OBDII... Gauges in a 1996 body are not CCD netorked but direct wired.

Some of the best wood stoves are local built. I've got a "Stove That Jack Built" and it's solid with 1/4" Plate steel, blower, etc.

Biggest problem is the wiring. If you capable of swapping all the 24V wiring into the 12V body your set. There is a handful of guys that do custom swaps like this.

Won't work. Because by the time you go from 55 to 65 MPH your wind drag doubles and will quadruple by the time you reason 75 MPh so you'll be require to put out even more fuel to over come the speed as well and the rolling resistance, rotational mass, and the increase frontal are wind drag. The only way to gain serious MPG's would be slam it to the ground (reduced frontal area), use smaller lighter wheels and tire (reduced rotational mass) use a street only tire (reduced rolling resistance), regear to get 1,500 to 1,700 RPM with this combination at 55 MPH (Lowest wind drag). Go to a tire shop and check out racing slicks. They are super light (next to nothing for rotational mass) and then being there is no tread face (next to nothing for rolling resistance).

Good way to get a overheating issue going. I did that a while back with a old beer sign and it was really easy to crerate overheating issues climbing around the hills here. But if you cover the grill then the fan can lock still and draw air throw both the radiator and intercooler. But with your method the fan will lock and can't pull air through.

Geez... Call me up and ask if I would look at mine no biggy... But to have to hike down to the shop to get a flashlight and hike back to the house to look and tell him what I already knew... To hike back up stairs to hear... " Oh! There is the instructons in the bottom of the box." Really good Rogan...

Wellat least for me I cover the entire grill from October to April at least. As long as the outside temperature is below +50*f then they remain covered.

Ummm... Owner error...:lmao2:Seriously I've only been out once with the truck and the initial opening of the thermostat was right at 200*F and then it feel rapidily to about 186*F closed again then came up to 193*F and stayed. This was only a 10 mile round trip to the dumpster. So more testing to come. Oh yeah you right really don't loose much coolant pulling the thermostat cover off. I figure there would be more loss and mess.

Pretty sure its a NAPA.

Hey Dave...Remember that thermostat you sent me a long while back? Yea... I got around to using it and guess what!? It's good! It rises to 200*F and lands back to 193*F and holds steady. More testing to follow!

Well just looking around there is several articles on WiFi radiation and Microwave Radiation and both are bad for you. Then you can look into cellphones too... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlPe3RXrBb0

Now that's funny... But ISX is a good teacher and mechanic of the group. 24V injectors take a bit of time to do correctly but there is a lot of short cuts that gain time.

Or... You can get a Southbend 13 inch flywheel. http://www.southbendclutch.com/

Prowelder... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/123-Prowelder But I haven't seen him in awhile you might try sending him a PM and see if he's still building them.

Old Thread I know but just wanted to add some video to this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLqGwhn9eek

Yes I screwed up...With the sudden change of weather and cold temperatures I winterized the RV in a hurry and didn't check everything out. I did drain all the lines, tanks (water, black, greys, and water heater). But what I forget to do is check that all accessories where OFF before plugging back in the RV to 120 VAC power again so there the water heater sat running empty for over 24 hours and lucky enough nothing got hot enough to cause a fire nor did it seem to burn out the element. It was still warm to the touch on the tank. So I'll assume the water heater is not damaged for now and find out in the spring of the year. When your done winterizing make sure everything is turned OFF.

You could always just have a fresh driveshaft built for it. Maybe aluminum?

No luck here...Just listen to the radio to a single vehicle roll over accident just a few miles from my place. Then had to quick run down to the fire house and take care of the water tower, turn the heater on, and quickly look of the trucks. Whew!

That I don't doubt...

You want to talk to ISX he's the 12V guru on site here...

Air flow will little to no good being the electronics are mount against the fuel side of the plate and there is air gap, plastic housing, then a aluminum cover. So air flow is not going to really change the temps much but fuel flow will.