Mopar1973Man

I'm still running OE clutch.

Intakes valves are good between 0.006 and 0.015 inches.Exhaust valves is good between 0.015 and 0.030 inches.

If you have a limited slip axle yes you require it....Or you could buy the gear lube with the friction modifier already mixed into it.

So far mine is still holding up to the 17 @ WOT and 19 @ idle rule when the fuel is warmed up.

Synthetic is not required.Synthetic is a double edge sword being that synthetics don't have a ash problem. But since synthetics are naturally wax free there is no pour point depressants used so synthetics will not aid in the colder weather it will still gell up.

Ok lets work it one step at a time then. Ask lots of questions we'll do what we can to answer it to the best of our knowledge. That fact will never change... Well there is several people on the site here that are setup for exactly that. Look at my own setup I'm towing a 31' Jayco Travel trailer and a smaller 8x8 utility trailer. Ask around why they pick the parts they did. Ahh... Diesel Auto Power (Jacob Kidd) good man with good prices. Ok. Building a truck is simular to building a house. What you need to do is sit down and do some soul searching and talking to the gang here. Now picture a HP/TQ number you want to reach for say 350 HP/800 TQ. Ok this would be your build plans. So now you would start working on all the weakness of trhe truck like fuel system, transmission, etc. Then after you sure of all the weakness are cover and your foundation is strong now you add the power and fuel. Because like building house on a weak foundation it will just fall over. Best thing is to ask questions and listen to advise of the family members here.

Well Ummm... The best thing right now would be to think about a Vulcan Big Line Kit. This will at least allow the stock pump to keep up with the injection pump and keep the fuel pressure up. I ran this for over 2 years till I got tired of replacing stock lift pumps. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/32-stock-lift-pumps http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Vulcan-Pusher-Pump-System-for-98-5-to-04-p/prs.htm

Here you go... At the bottom of the filter can.

I'm one of the rare ones that sees 100-110* in the summer time and then in the winter time be as cold as -25*F. Yes I live in the Northwest and in the State of Idaho. There is 3 things that kill VP44 injection pumps. [*]Low Fuel pressure [*]Low filtration [*]Low Lubricity The fixes to these 3 things. [*]Keep your fuel pressure between 14-20 PSI at all times this willl improve cooling and lubing of the VP44 injection pump while its under heavy load. [*]Upgrade or use high quality filters. While there is lots and lots of filter out you should opt for 2-3 micron filters. Do cheap out for the local part store filters. Study up and buy a good quality filter. [*]Bosch's study on fuel lubricity found that all fuel injection pumps had the best life span with fuels scored <450 HFRR. Using a quality lubricant additive will extend the life of your VP44 injection pump. More information... [*]http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps [*](N/a) [*]http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

HY35W is going to be the stock turbo for Automatic.HX35W is going to be the stock turbo for manuals.

Been there... Done that. :banghead:

Feel the love...

Actually only a 3/4" NPT plug is the boost the 1/2" is coolant.

You might search a while for the diaphragm. It's a tough part to find around here in Idaho. But he's right the whole AFC housing is based oon boost pressure and the ability of pushing that pin down inside the pump. You could loosen the starwheel to allow fuel on earlier. But double check all the boost parts for damage wear or sticking.

Yes they do produce a fancy chainsaw file and guide system that uses 2 files and files bottom the cutter and the rake at the same time giving a perfect chain.

I know I not the type to start gov't threads but when MoparMom popped open that video from one of her sites and I heard that I just about lost it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Amendment_to_the_United_States_Constitution Like another person said the day they take the right away to bear arms will be the day he turns into a criminal. Which I totally agree. Because once you remove the weapons from the general public it will be only the criminals that will be armed and dangerous.

That little thingy your taking about is called the rake.

I would still back track the wiring and double check connectors for corrosion or loose connectors. Even though its random I would still look into it.

Nothing at all. Soft brass is self sealing if tighten properly. As for the rest of the fuel system JIC / Pushloc's are self sealing too.

Possibly a pump timing issues? If its a bit to retarded it would be lacking in power too.

New Jersey giving $1000 dollar reward to turn people with firearms. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_rY8ZUbrnU I believe in the 2nd Admendment Right I Open Carry and Conceal Carry.

CCD Network problems. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus As the CCD network is failing the commnunication will other devices fail too. Soo like RPM data for the PCM to tell the alternator to charger or not (your flickering lights).

My 5.9L Dodge Ram 1500 (V8) had a blown intake gasket on the plenum it was also sucking in engine oil and air from the cam valley. It was a afternoon project to pull the nose of the engine apart to change the gaskets but no more issues with misfire codes.

Air leaks are a tough one to spot most times out of ten. I tend to stay away from teflon tapes and thread sealants though.

If you want to extend it to the max. Then get a exhaust brake and get 10x as much brake pad life.