Mopar1973Man

Actually rarely have anyone ever said anything. Most people give me the thumbs up. As far as I know both Idaho and Oregon are open carry states and allowed. As for my concealed permit its good for Idaho but not Oregon so I got to open carry in Oregon. Also a member of... http://idahoopencarry.org/ I'm more about protecting my family (MoparMom, Diesel, and myself). Hence why the gates being installed its about protecting the house and property.

Nothing walking off yet. But don't like the traffic the neighbor has next door so before it does possibly walk off I better secure it.As for locking it. No problem the supplied chain is long enough already and it lock as of tonight... :hyper:You must not of paid attention to the pictures. What's is on my belt? :whistle:And the MAD (Mean Ar$e Dog) is usually running around the yard or laying here in the window so if he barks I open door and either the Diesel gets it or I do.

Here you go... All signals to and from the APPS sensor is 5 volt or less. Also all sensors are 5V supplied from the ECM. More wiring diagrams here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

Well your suppose to mark it before taking it apart but since its apart now I would say go with it and assemble again. But mark the remaining ones.As a matter of fact I just replaced the other end just a couple a days ago about 15 minute job. Now as for getting the bolts out of the transfer case is easy. 16mm socket and do the top bolt. Spin do it again. Nearly impossible to do the bottom one.I just bought a new grease gun needle, hose and coupler. Mine is looking a bit wore out and the new joint has needle zurts...

Hmmm... Any previous history on the truck? I wonder if someone abuse it a little bit.

High idle function will remain... I borrowed Bob Wagner's personal Smarty and flash mine to get the high idle feature.

MoparMom and I went down to Ontario, OR and purchased a pair of 8 foot ranch gates and pair of railroad ties for post. Needless to say it was a very nasty digging job took nearly all day to dig two 3 foot deep holes and set the post. But I'm please with the results it will keep unwanted people out of the yard and also keep thing from disappearing from the yard.As for the gap in the gates there wasn't much I could do about it being this is nothing more than a river bottom in my yard with roack as big as 4-8 foot at times. So I hard to fish my way down to 3 foot depth one way or another so the extra 9-10 inch gap was added.

Book calls for every 15,000 miles (or every other oil change). Food for thought. I'm running a AirDog 150 with 3 micron filter and the stock filter can. I've got nearly 30K miles on the AirDog filter and closer to 50K miles on the stock can filter. Pressure is still a stable 19 @ idle and 17 @ WOT. Pump is part of the issues. The stock Carter pump is only good for 35 GPH. Then its got mechanical problems. This little plastic hub is not suppose to fall out or slip. But 70-80% of pump fail to this little plastic hub.

Consider this picture... [*]No cell service [*]-25*F outside [*]Home is at least 20 miles from here Bad APPS sensor... Not good.

As for keeping the stock gauges might be a bit tricky being you got to keep the ECM. So you would have to rig the ECM back on the 12V and use its sensors to report the data back to the instrument cluster over the CCD network. At this rate you still stuck with all the electronics just short a VP44.

Sound like the VP44 is taking a dirt nap on you. Sorry... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 Try hitting the vendor list. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors Site favorite is Diesel Auto Power (Jacob Kidd)

Hmmm... Did you ever consider upgrading to the later style fuel filter can?

Really simple just pull the fuel pump relay out and the VP44 will not fire. Notes This will set a P1689 code. So have a code reader handy to reset the code.

I'm doing the same thing... I go out back and mow the leaves into rows. The mow the rows till they are gone. I sometimes get hung up by weather and end up push huge piles of leaves around that are some what wet.

Yes Sir. Your lift pump and plumbing are done. Time to upgrade. Optimal pressure is 14-20 PSI Lowest limit is 10 PSI Anything below 10 PSI is asking for damage.

What kind of lift pump stock?

Compression test would verify the cylinder health for sure. :whistle:As for blowby causes. Vacuum pump, worn rings, cracked piston, etc.

Changing the head gasket would stop the leak. But now you got to ask yourself the question why did it start leaking in the first place? I would like to suggest you keep up on your coolant flushes every 30K miles and you'll never do another head for a coolant leak.

Another way to inflate is do it based on weight.Weight the truck axles and then you can use this formula.(Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Weight Capacity x Tire Max PSI = Inflation pressureFor example my front axle is 4,440 pounds with my 265/75 R16 are rated for 3,415 pounds @ 80 PSI.(4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,415 = 0.65 x 80 = 52 PSI. Another example with 3042# @ 80 PSI (Standard load range E)(4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57 PSI.Or my 235/85 R16 3750# @ 110 PSI (Load Range G's)(4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,750 = 0.59 x 110 = 65 PSI.

MoparMom is still rolling around the floor laughing her tail off... as soon as she can quit laughing so hard she'll respond to your post. As for firewood... I'm still doing the splitting with 20 ton hydraulic splitter makes it easy. About 2 hours of work to fill the trailer. (1.5 cords)

Excuse me I've lost weight... I'm down to 205 lbs now... I was 235 lbs last winter... All good. Even fat people gotta eat... Unlimited??? Free??? Ummm... No. I hardly doubt that... I've got to buy a firewood permit to even cut wood $20 bucks for 4 cords. As for my old firewood hole I'm going to have to turn my back on it. Even though there is a ton of standing dead trees I'm getting tired of the so-so wood. This last batch seem to be more punk in it. So with the new forest fires that burned its time to investigate the new burned areas for new firewood sources.

DANGER! Becareful with this method...Single hand saw running is very dangerous! But what I'll do to test the saw is cutting true is start the saw cutting into a log and release the handle bar and hang on to the throttle. Let the saw fall under its own weight if the chain is dull on one side it will stop cutting but if the chain is truly sharp then it should continue to fall/cut under its own weight.Tomorrow in the daylight I'll get out the chainsaw and show you a few pictures of wore out bars and dull chains.Take a close look at the tip of this cutter its been hit on a rock. Blunt nosed and worthless.My old 26" bar and chain need replacing.Pushing the chain away from me... On the next two ipicture look at the teeth they are totally dull.Pulling the chain towards me. You can see the movement. Bar is wasted...

Well since the weather has been mild I've been busy doing catch up on the firewood here so I'm ready for old man winter to strike.So here is a collection of pictures...So here is the 1996 Dodge 1500 getting in on the action of hauling firewood. (MoparMom is hiding!)MoparMom helping out stacking wood.Then I had to have my pic taken too...And then the group shot..

[*]Chain isn't sharpen properly [*]Chain bar is wore out and not holding the chain true vertical [*]Pulling hard on one side of the handle bar What does your chips look like long nearly stringy or dusty and small? A sharp chain should have nice long chips. Does your chain rock left to right in the bar? Shouldn't. The chain should have little to none rocking left to right. When you cutting are you forcing the chain into the wood or are you letting the chain cut on it own? Looking at the pic I say your forcing rather hard and digging the saw dogs into it. Sign its dull...

Operational limit specs. As for what happens I'm not sure. Warped or cracked head, etc.