Mopar1973Man

That's call a FPCM (Fuel Pump Control Module).

Different animal again. Because it first off naturally aspirated and number two the fuel doesn't require activate heat energy to fire the fuel it uses a spark plug to ignite the fuel. Then on top of that gasoline flash point is seriously low so its easy to ignite regardless of outside temperature. So now looking back at diesels you need glow plugs or grid heater to warm the air enough to even start it. Then your trying to fire the fuel on the active heat energy created by the cylinder compression. Then the fuel itself has to be ignited by autoignition temperature (compression) and not flash point (spark plug). So the colder the air gets the harder it is to ignite the fuel. So to compensate for this is why the manifold is pre-heated by coolant, grid heaters, and hotter thermostats compared to previous years since the 24V SO engine has the LOWEST compression ratio to all other Cummins engines at 16.3:1 (HO is 17.0:1) so the heated air is a welcomed sight. The autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will ignite decreases as the pressure increases or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture. The flash point of a volatile material is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air. Measuring a flash point requires an ignition source. At the flash point, the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed. The flash point is not to be confused with the autoignition temperature, which does not require an ignition source, or the fire point, the temperature at which the vapor continues to burn after being ignited. Neither the flash point nor the fire point is dependent on the temperature of the ignition source, which is much higher. The flash point is often used as a descriptive characteristic of liquid fuel, and it is also used to help characterize the fire hazards of liquids. “Flash point” refers to both flammable liquids and combustible liquids. There are various standards for defining each term. Liquids with a flash point less than 60.5 °C (140.9 °F) or 37.8 °C (100.0 °F)—depending upon the standard being applied—are considered flammable, while liquids with a flash point above those temperatures are considered combustible.[1]

Very close to completion of the error code listing but most of the engine codes are present I'm only short a few of the transmission codes.

What would be wrong with carefully prying up slowly on a warm body (inside a shop with heat or using hair drier) and putting a shot of silicone under each one?

Naw... Just makes me think hard in explaining my point a bit better.

ECM is on the driver side of the blockPCM is on the passenger side firewall

When you use a propane weed torch to light you fire. (Lazy man way)When you install a pyrometer on your stove stack to monitor EGT's.When the firewood get parked in the shop...... and the truck is left outside.

Feel the love... Still funny as hell seeing this...Well I hate to say it but I was a Computer Nerd back in 1984 written machine language code for Atari 400 and Atari 800 computers back in the day. I even setup my first BBS in Cally ran it on my Atari 800 computer and 2400 baud modem.The long hair did start till after 6th grade every since then I kept it.I am who I am...PS: MoparMom says, "Picky picky picky.."

So with my winter front I'm gaining more warmer air under the hood aiming to reach 100*F as a minimum for IAT temps. With my winter front I typically see roughly +50*F gain over outside temps so like right now its 32*F so it would be 82*F at the IAT. Close... Then also the IAT fooler on top of it Quadzilla tech even admitted the idea is solid because stable IAT temps will keep the timing table from jumping around. Also that ECM starts to retard timing slightly but then like a Edge Comp module can take advantage of the slack and push the timing forward again because the Edge Comp can modify the timing table after the ECM. Even yesterday with temp as cold as 21-25*F for day time high, winterized fuel, etc. I still got 20.5 MPG. Not bad If I say so myself. So winterize fuel, wind drag and thicker fluids excuse is now blown out of the water. There is a difference between HP/TQ tuning and Economy tuning. For HP/TQ your going to be running high boost pressures creating huge amount of compressor heat for a period of time down a quarter mile track. You looking to cram as much air into the cylinder as possible to make power so yes cold air is the way to go. But for economy tunning where you boost pressure typically float 2-5 PSI and there is no heat created by the turbo and the outside air is freezing cold passing over the intercooler. This retards the burn rate of the fuel. So now adding warmer air to the manifold bring the fuel burn rate back up and give you better economy numbers again.

Bad sign. You've got a ECM that is failing to boot up the software into memory. Typically bad memory chips inside the ECM and will require replacing the ECM.

Increases MPG because it give the illusion of being summer temperatures. Truthfully warmer air always produces better MPGs over colder air. Driveabiltity basically there is not much difference. The IAT fooler all it does is change the timing table.

Hey Gang... I felt I should let you all know that with winter here and snow fall happening... Please slow down! I just got back from a vehicle slide off no one was injured but the vehicle took on damage. All the time of working this doing traffic control people were driving excessive fast on icy roads. Please be careful and slow down. It not worth wrecking your truck for a extra speed. Just leave early and get there safe! Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Gang!

Sounds like fun. To bad I'm too far away.

I kind of wonder about the security bolt idea too. What happens when the day come you need to remove your tailgate and you've lost the special socket or the socket fails and breaks then what? Kind of like the days back in Cally with special lugs with special keys. I had a set of those on my Charger and one day had a flat tire and couldn't get the tire off because the key stripped the bolt head out. So I had to walk home and get a ride back with a pair of vise grips to get that foul thing out. There is lots of ways to secure stuff but come on when the security makes basic life insane its time to re-think it a bit.

Heck my hose clamp idea would of been cheaper...

When you making your post. Scroll down just a bit and hit the MANAGE ATTACHMENTS button and then upload your pictures.

Let's say they change the spring and can upgrade it from 15-17 PSI for a Bosch VP44 injection pump to 35-40 PSI for the Bosch P7100 injection pump. Just changing a spring. As for tales I've heard I heard of pressure well up in the 60's for failed Raptor regulators.

Picture please I would like to see this...

So a re-cap... Start with mis-located bulb... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4764&d=1354590819 Corrected alignment of bulb... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4765&d=1354663425 To replacements... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4778&d=1354917977 I'd say you're heading the right direction...

My AirDog has been rather stable since shimming the spring and put a slight oval the spring.

That's why AirDog's have a 100 micron or so prefilter and not 2-3 micron before the pump. It to filter off the large stuff before entering the pump and protect it from lock ups from large debris.

IAT has no real change to fueling it effect more of the timing curve than fueling. Like myself I don't use the IAT sensor at all mine is unplugged and I stuff a rheostat in the plug for tuning ability for MPG's more so.

If it rises then you best reduce your pressures.

Apparently the sensor is good because you didn't say anything about error codes or CEL lights. Little common sense. So the sensor has to be in the realm of normal values other than that the sensor would of thrown a code. So now go back and figure out what you did wrong during your testing.

As far as I know its a ECM problem.