Mopar1973Man

BHAF article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter As for how much value? Well K&N didn't add any value that for sure as for damages the only way to tell is do a compression test but I doubt the owner will go for that.

Typically I normally see them full but hear of them being down a touch too. Might have something to do with the filter and the design of the valve that some have. Some have a rubber flap that prevent drain back.

So you already got the TSB done? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather

Here is a write up of the BHAF... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter Common appearance of a K&N filter truck. You can see where the compressor wheel is making contact with the housing in this picture and is a bad sign for the turbo. Remember all this dirt and junk is imbalance the turbo and being sucked into the engine. Here is a turbo with a proper paper filter no dirt.

I ran over to NADA quick and did a basic look up on it and clean value is about $12,800.

Welcome to the family...

I know I don't exactly apply either but I've been hunting for a smokeless tune that keeps the MPG's as well. Come to find out even in my tuning that reducing the sublevel from 5 to 3 well come to find out the timing curve fell out sharply and so did the MPG's even my ScanGauge II is showing only 16-17 MPG at best. So I bounced up to Sublevel 4 trying to gain back but here comes the darn smoke again. I'll most likely return back to 5.

Interested in results.

Might go over your wiring and main cables and make sureeverything is good. Might break out a ohm meter and do some testing too. also go back and read over the error code I'm sure there is some tips in there.

Here is the P1682... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low So you got some batteries and alternator to bench test.

Actually what I'm finding out regardless of 12V or 24V. It the fact like ISX always said right along is to have the timing set just right for your way of driving. Like I changed my programming just to try different things and finding out differences in timing make a huge change in power. But in the same token the wrong timing can reduce or increase MPG's depending on where you sit in the RPM range vs. your timing. Yes ISX I did listen to you...

CCD Network error. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/234-p1698-no-bus-message-received-from-pcm VP44 Injection pump failure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/170-p0252-fuel-valve-signal-missing Turbo wastegate issue (not a MAP sensor) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/165-p0234-turbo-boost-limit-exceeded As for the CCD network error you might run the diagnostic in the link and here is the wiring diagram to aid you. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus As for the P0252 that's a internal pump failure you can reset the codes and take a test drive and see if it comes back but I would keep it in the back of your head it might come back again. As for the P0234 that's caused by a failed wastegate that's stuck closed. Typically rusted shut.

Try 2 thing... [*]Disconnect the alternator fuse and go for a ride. [*]Bench test the alternator have it test for diode pattern. If disconnecting the alternator fixes the problem you know the alternator is the causes. Or you could have it bench tested and check for AC pattern being output from the alternator. As for the P0500 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

Wow... A wise man. You the kind I would love to sit down and hear the stories...

Injector cleaner "might" help in keeping the nozzle hole clean but it doesn't do much for taking the coked up diesel off the pintle needle.

I resemble that comment. I've got my aluminium heat shield, foam covered A/C, lines and my bungie cord holding down my BHAF.

I think the simplest way is to see if the tweeter is on the A-pillar.

Give you an idea. My shop in nothing more than a concrete brick building with a metal roof. I can get 101.1 FM in the yard with the truck radio. Back in the shop forget it its gone. Even my fire radio go into the shop and try to transmit not going to happen. Even using my cordless phone is really spotty weak and I must be careful or it will hang up. Even have a steel garage door too.Now the main house is mostly stick build on a concrete basement but there is no issues EMF wise here. So if my truck was parked over in the shop it would have a better chance of survival against EMF than the main house garage.Then I look at the terrain I live in. Most all RF energy is line of sight so more than likely there would only be a small part of energy ever to make it the bottom of this canyon. The canyon wall on both sides (east and west) are roughly 6,000 to 7,000 feet tall I'm at a low of 2,800 feet. Kind of like a fold of a book.

I'm using a rheostat for adjustable tuning but you could go between 100-143*F... [TABLE] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

The power to be seem to leak out the thought of nuke being used somewhere and possibly knocking out all the electronics. I don't really even worry about this. Because everything electronic would be destroyed and leave the country like 1800's all over again. Now if your panicking and want to protect a second ECM, PCM, etc electronics for you truck its rather simple. I remember watching a youtube video. All you got to do is buy a steel trash can and place everything you want in the can to be protected from EMF. This not the same video but close enough. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t23iXhEiQUc

http://www.opencarry.org/?page_id=221 (idaho) http://www.opencarry.org/?page_id=290 (oregon)

Might try over at www.tractorfarmandfamily.com and see if the group over there has any ideas for ya.

Air intake temperature sensor is at the back of the head on the driver side. Check it by using a live data tool before replacing. Like me I've no longer using my IAT sensor at all I've got my IAT stuff with a resistor forces to 143*F constant. But even with 195*F coolant the grid heaters come on too. Secret: There is a battery temperature sensor that feeds the PCM another temp which might be fed to the ECM for other reasons.

Don't know.

Well that would be cool but there is nothing to see now but white snow everywhere. It cold, frozen, slick, etc. Did I mention its freaking cold? Maybe next summer might be a better time.