
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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truck got some spoiling today
For what he spent in oil I got a stock pile... :tongue:Only using the same stuff all the local truckers use...
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rear brake rotor removal
Too big those are front boots... Smaller are rear boots... Funny I re used my boots 2 times and replaced them on the 3rd go... Just got to be careful.
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New from Oregon
Welcome Gerry... The best man to talk to about towing and getting the most from those truck would be CajFlynn, BlueOx and a few other towing nuts here on the site...
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Share your RV mods...
WARNING! Something to remember all ST tire typically sold have a speed rated of only 60-65 MPH beyond that you risking a blow out. But check with the tire manufacture of what the speed rating really is. Most upgrade to LT tires to get a higher speed rating. Like the tires on mt trailer are Tow Max Load Range D's with a speed rating of 65 MPH so I typically tow at 55-60 MPH tops... No problems here!
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Help With Bad Idle
Wouldn't be a bad idea to sit down with a digital caliper and measure all the parts and see how tight/loose they are. Like my little cheapy calipers do measure down to 1/10 of a thousandth.
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For the first time since I started driving..
We do the same thing... Like for example we use to have DirectTV and paid about $56 per month fo TV. So 8-9 years ago we decided to yank out the DirectTV because we we'll did watch it anymore. So MoparMom and I continue to pay the bill like it still comes on the mail. But that what we use for good time fund for the traveling with the RV. So very true... Living out here in the back country of Idaho you relize really quick what is a NEED and a WANT. I've gotten used to the simpler life style and have no problems with it. Congrads...
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thinking about putting a fuller 10 speed behind my cummins.....wutcha think??
I would just do a NV4500 and be done with it... Nothing hard to swap... There is a member here with a moded trans I just can't remember the name...
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Help With Bad Idle
Might be a mild air leak from the lift pump change. You could air some pressure to the fuel tank and have a second personal crawl around under the truck looking for damp spots. It might be dirty injectors... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/62-injector-cleaning
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Oil Leaks...
Ummm... I've never replaced a crank seal yet... So I'm not sure if you can do it without pulling the cover or not.:shrug:I'm coming to a day when I know I've got to do mine soon. I'm getting the same wet spot...
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Help With Bad Idle
Ok what kind of fuel pressure do you have? (Idle and WOT at highway speed)Do you have any hard starting issues in the morning?Any error codes present by chance?
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P1652 Code
Opps... My bad... :banghead: mopar1973man.com I'm going to double check now too... EDIT/UPDATE: I'm so sorry about the password screw up. Geez... It was posted on the download screen and the download note box has it too... Make matters worse I guessed when I should of just looked... But the above bold password should work... Tested for you!
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STILL battling fuel gremlins
I would settle out the fuel and pump out the top 90% of it out of a 5 gallon buckets. But remember if it is algae problems the fuel is technically contaminated. But I agree with Wild and Free its best to clean the tank really good and start over. While your at it I would blow solvent through the fuel lines too... Make sure there is no other gunk floating around. Then monitor the filter housing... Sample some of the fuel in a clear bottle or such and see if anything shows up.
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P1652 Code
Yes Sir the password is correct...
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STILL battling fuel gremlins
Well technically the bolt will be pressurized after the engine is running so as long as the bolt is not leaking while the engine is running I'm going to have to say no. But now all the fuel lines rearward of the lift pump would be suction lines and can leak without warning. Because the air will leak into the line draining it back to the tank.
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P1652 Code
RAR file is a compressed file like ZIP but with better protection than ZIP. Hence why you need to download the WinRAR program to unpack said file. When the WinRAR is running and it ask ot access the RAR file it will ask for a password. www.mopar1973man.com Then the PDF document will appear and be readable. A while back I was just zipping the files and storing on the site for people to download. Then the file would get damaged or altered in a short period of time... So got tried of checking, downloading, uploading a new copy, etc... So now with the RAR files with password locked and non-standard compression I've not had a issue since! So sorry for the inconvenance...
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STILL battling fuel gremlins
Apparently you do have a air leak some where. If you have to prime the system that many times. Where is the question?
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P1652 Code
Right on the bottom of the page... Or from the download area again... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=224 <- 32 Bit version Win RAR http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=225 <- 64 Bit Version WinRAR
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P1652 Code
Go here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=189
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Porcelain Carburator For Mileage???
OMG...
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P1652 Code
Doubtful... I would double check your HVAC work again to be sure you didn't pinch a wire while installing the box.
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Need to understand the logic "high rail pressure=high mpg on the lie-o-meter"
I can give you this much... ScanGauge II uses 2 numbers. MPH and GPH to figure MPG. 55 MPH / 2.80 GPH = 19.6 MPGSo some how Dodge has made a overly complex algorithm for figure out GPH. From rail pressure, RPM, etc.
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Injectors
Don't sweat it... I do it all the time... :banghead:
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Injection pump gear removal problems
I would set it back up again and put some tension on the bolts again then smack the plate with a hammer to see if the jarring action might free it.
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Not a Good day
Sniff, sob... Thanks... That pulled at my heart strings a bit... I'm glad you think of it that way I'm glad I can bring this group of people together into one big happy family. Is there anything the family here can possibly do to help you out?
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P1652 Code
It basically states that the J1850 bus is shorted to ground. To check all the wiring for damage... From what I can see about the wiring its not like the 2nd Gens with twisted pairs but the 3rd Gens are all single wire networks. They don't have a set color for either the best I can give is all modules have a VIOlet / (some color). It could be violet/yellow (instrument cluster), Violet/Blue (Transfer Case), Violet/Black (Anti-lock brakes), Violet/White (secuirty System), Violet/Brown (Powertrain Control Module), Violet/Light Green (Heater controls) ... All these wire join together and go to the OBDII port under the dash as a light blue/violet and go to pin #2 in the port.