Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
-
Code P0251
Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/169-p0251-vp44-pump-fuel-valve-feedback-circuit 98-02 Error code definition I didn't pay attention to the 03 year... :banghead:
- Dumb Question
-
I like smog. But first I have to smog it.
Lets put it the simple way. The Edge Gauge are no more accurate than the senders themselves. Also remember the sender limit what gauge is capable of. Then if there is any electrical issues then the gauge reading might be flawed.I tend to stick solely to mechanical gauges (boost and fuel pressure).
-
Dumb Question
First off there is no dumb questions here... That's how you learn is by asking questions so it not dumb it just you want to learn so ask away! As for R&R it stands for Remove and Replace.
-
Escaped!
Well after having a long weekend of company here at the house MoparMom and myself packed up the RV and hauled out. Knowing we had to stop in Emmett, ID for a short time to get supplies from Boise, ID so spent the night in Emmett, ID little RV park. http://goo.gl/maps/VoMe (Point B) So we got all the food and misc. stuff we wanted for our trip over to Mann Creek Reservoir. So we packed up and headed over to Mann Creek. On my way I was seen by a member of www.idahoturbodiesels.com... http://goo.gl/maps/VoMe (Point C) Now once we got to Mann Creek camp-ground we got set up and basically did absolutely nothing. Just laid around and did nothing really. Take the dog out for a walk of course but stayed quiet and relaxed. Warm days there at 89*F out and cooled down to about 65*F at night. It was nice to just relax and rest and do nothing. Here a peek at the sunset and sky as we sat outside...
-
Voltage Loss
Ok...On my last outing I seem to be having a problem with the main power lead coming into the RV. What is happening I was laying on the couch and watching TV (Small black and white TV) off my inverter which barely drawing 1.8 Amps and MoparMom would run a little water and the voltage would fall fast. Flip on a light volt would fall. Turn everything off and the volt meter shows low 12's... But just a few lights with drop in below 10 Volts in a short time. So I'm assuming there is still a weak connection between the batteries and the fuse panel since everything seems affected by it.
-
I like smog. But first I have to smog it.
As for California smog you'll have to remove the Edge before you can even smog it...
-
MPG in my 05
Towing the beast behind me in the mountains and with wind... I think the ol' SGII showed 12.9 or 13.0 when I got home...Don't remember to lazy to go look.
-
Need help!
Possible wiring fault?Defective gauge?
-
Had to do some laundry..
After 30K miles and 1 year! 150K miles and once a year brake fluid changes.
-
ToyHauler Trip...
Right on Russ... I've got a tale to tell as well soon...
-
A/C pressures
Hmmm... As stated over on Wikipedia... If its used for inhalers and air soft guns I doubt there is any issues with discharging freon in the atomphere.
-
Dumping station?
Hmmmm... That a lot of water! Wow!I've only got 50 gallons but mounted at the rear bumper. Which tends to me make me a bit tongue light running full tank which I typically do.I'm really curious of the pin weight...
-
Who Tows and hits over 30 psi on stock headbolts - headgasket ?
Well I got back from a camping trip and hauling the trailer around. Yes I can tag 35 PSI without thinking but do I really want to hold it? Naw... I typically go over at 20-25 PSI in 4th Gear holding 53-55 MPH... Not a problem!
-
Got my 5" exhaust in what's next
I'm at 147K miles and going for 200K...* 2 Cycle Oil (128:1 Ratio)* AirDog Filter (3 Micron)* Stock Filter (10 micron)* 17-19 PSI Fuel Pressure or cold temp pressure 15-17 PSI (<+32*F)
-
Had to do some laundry..
I'm not too worried about the coolant passages as much as like the heater core, oil cooler, head gasket, etc. These are THIN items and take very little to ruin. So that why I suggest talking to a radiator shop about the coolant flush so not to make things worse... :smart:As for the callipers that points out what I've always said about full break down of the caliper and cleaning to remove the debris. Over time water and debris build up in the bottom start rusting. 197K miles and still got factory callipers and rotors...
-
time for the oil change
I've been using Fleetguard filters since the begining. No problems here... As for the filter guru talk to AH64ID...
-
Had to do some laundry..
:doh:Actually you goofed on the brakes. The piston should of been cleaned and not bore honed. Then the piston should of fell to the bottom of the bore without the seals in place. Normally I do have to use a C clamp to push the assembled pistons back in. But the dissembled callipers should allow the piston to fall to the bottom. Honing is only required if the bore is rusted.Now as for the coolant system that was caused from acid or basic coolant erroding the block and other metals. What your looking at is the oxides of those metals. Just because the coolant is still clean and the freeze point is good doesn't mean the pH level is good. As for the cooling system I would ask a local radiator shop on how to clean that up. (Boiling, acid wash, etc.)
-
Dumping station?
I know where a bunch of RV dump are close to home. But I've also got a clean out on the septic system to allows me to dump at home or clean up the tanks.Just a nasty job no matter how you want to deal with it...
-
Will tires throw off factory mpg counter
Yes... Oversize tire will effect the overhead computer. The bad part is there is no way for you to recalibrate the output (Flow rate GPH) of the fuel system after changes. So you might be able to correct the speed and distance but you have trouble with flow rates.
-
Describe timing
All I remember its one of AH64ID's post about the smarty...
-
Auto batteries for rv
They will work... The difference in design is that starting batteries are more for short high amps where deep cycles are for low long amp draws. Then the starting batteries don't have a well for sulphation where deep cycle batteries have a extra space below the plate for sulphated pate material to drop. So yes they will work but won't last as long as deep cycles...
-
Fan clutch
:shrug:I change coolant and thermostats yearly and never seen a overheat nor underheat issue yet. This thermostat I got now is a bit low but not bad 185-195*F range still. I may wander a bit on cold days but seem very steady now with summer coming.
-
Describe timing
Sorry... Wikipedia.org... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature
-
Describe timing
How early or late the injection pulse will occur. But remember as boost rises timing retards. Somewhere around the site in the CR stuff there is a timing map of a stock timing and it got a huge drop in timing.