Mopar1973Man

I don't think they could flow enough to satisfy a Cummins requires for a TP main oil filter... Bypass filter is fine with TP but a main filter I would scared to death...

Same occured for me to with the stock breather drain nearly a full gallon of oil over the fan and radiator before I got to level ground. Then had to catch a ride with my friend back off the hill 40 miles to get a full gallon of oil. Since then I travelled nearly 200K on the clock and not had a oil spill since the mod.I've actual considered trying to retro-fit a 12V tappet cover on and see about get rid of the whole vent pipe all together... But never got any answer if the 12V tappet cover would fit right.

Double check the wiring in the OBDII port...

MSDS sheet are general open for the public and most all products with hazardous chemical will have a MSDS sheet for it. Google is a good friend to learn how to use.

It only a startup white smoke its gone shortly after starting the engine cold. Kind of like a grid heater or maybe wore injector. I did pull the out they had signs of been wore. I thought the first time it did it was from possible air rin the line figure it would clear shortly after and didn't. Being I did pul lthe injectors that where i'm planing on double checking.

I've got a stock 1993 Dodge Ram 3/4 Truck 4WD that is expreiencing low MPG's. The power is OK for a automatic trans truck but the MPG's are like 15-16 MPG. The VE pump is un-toucked and un-changed still is stock configuration. Valves have been adjusted and they are good. Injectors where pulleed and cleaned up the best I can but still low MPG's. Also now having issues with white smoke at start up. Roughly 350K on the clock.Need some ideas gang...

Ummm... As far as I know as the pressure increases to a point around 450 PSI on the high side the compressor will be shut down. As far as I know there is no connection between the A/C and the fan on a 03. Like my 02 the there is a high pressure switch and a low pressure switch. As long as the pressure are between those 2 limits the compressor runs but as soon as it leave those to limits the compressor is shut down to protect the system.

Oh you mean the one with kerosene, moth balls, and xylene paint thinner? http://www.chemcas.com/msds112/cas/1772/8008-20-6_64742-94-5_91-20-3_25551-13-7_1330-20-7.asp Not good for your fuel system at all... I've got all these chemicals in my garage but I sure not going to dump it in the fuel... Kerosene is already dry fuel with low lubricity and high cetane number and low BTU content... The top it with a mix of Xylene paint thinner which is a very flashy fuel extremely low BTU content... Then to make it more fun benzene is a cancer causing chenical. You can look all this up over here... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthalene http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzene http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerosene What is wrong here is there is nothing here to lubricate the fuel system you are striping all the lubricate from the fuel system and causing much more harm than good. Even Bosch says the HFRR score of fue should be below 450 HFRR and today fuel is ~520 HFRR so adding a injector cleaner is not good... :banghead:

Dave is right... Look for the wet spots or fuel leaks... Sometimes the fuel system will get air leaks which don't leak fuel on the ground but suck air into the lines as the truck is running and continue to suck air in to drain the line back.Just for sake of cover all the bases what's your fuel pressure (Idle and WOT)? Do you have any error codes?Did you change your fuel filter lately?

Hit the nail on the head though... Just make it simple...Here is the cetane page to explain it... This explain both cetane and BTU's http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects Then here is the page explaining fuel additives... The explains the impact of injector cleaners and other fuel additives on the fuel system... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Just remember to un-hook the grid heaters and use only a small small burst and I do mean small!

Understandable... But as for the gauge angle I tend to suggest them to owners as a protection your investment item. Like all the hotshots whe got here on the site they will tell you that anytime something fails it will typically show up in the form of heat. As for voiding warranty if you discuss the option of pyro / boost with your dealer they might just write it there logs of a authorized modification like I did years ago with my custom crankcase vent. (Documented in Ontario, OR. Dodge Dealer). But I was only trying to be helpful..

Something to take notice of... Like on my truck I'm running a Edge Comp with the VP44 tapped and left it set on 5x5 (kill mode). I get awesome MPG in the 21-22 MPG range and high mark of 25.3 MPG for the record. Now as for cold air intakes as we are learning that there is a limit of how cold is good. I'm finding 60-100*F outside temps are goodd for MPG's be below this the IAT temp fall to low to give good MPG's. Bigger turbo isn't really required at all since your not going to be driving with your foot mashed like my turck the stock Hx35 is plenty...

Engine Coolant temp means nothing... You can still exceed safe EGT's limits without seeing high coolant. Like my truck I can see 1,400*F in EGT's and coolant never rises over 197-200*F... Once again hopefully you get gauges soon because the ECM has no idea wha the EGT's are like and doesn't base any gear placement on EGT's either. That's a human factor... Like my rig I watch the EGT's and when the temp start getting close to 1,200*F I slow down a bit grab a gear down and hold the tach at 2K and watch again. If the EGT's keep rising back to 1,200*F then slow down again and grab another gear down. I've been know to climb grades at 20-23 MPH with EGT's hovering at 1,100*F and still seeing coolant temps of 197-200*F... So very rare do I see 210*F but that dead of summmer running A/C and dogging the truck up grade in too high of a gear...

Hopefully you get gauges soon... I would base my gearing on the amount or boost / EGT's I'm creating and back off a gear and slow down. Just because the truck can pull the grade in said gear doesn't mean its good for it. Like I can pull 7% grades in 5th gear but I know my pyrometer temps would exceed 1,200*F really easy even stock. Don't ask how I know this...

Kind of like my setup too I wanted to keep the amount of cables and cords to a minimum by hidding them with the VHS player in its cubby. But right now I got the TV stored in the dining bench. So everytime I walk in I see that darn cable laying there... Oh well... Still it would be much nicer to just have a flat screen mounted to the wall...

No in tank lift pump and no stock APPS/TPS...I would install a good lift pump like Airdog, Raptor or a FASS. these cost a bit more but all the weakness of fuel system is gone and the lift pump has lifetime warranty.As for the APPS sensor the stock ones are known to fail too. But when you can save about $300 buck on a Timbo's APPS. I would rather you use what you just save for a good set of gauges... (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer)Welcome to the family... Oh yeah I to also pull trailers (31' Jayco Eagle)...

Ouch... I'm going to have to assume the lift pump is dead and so is the VP44. Being that the truck is not starting or running I would would consider getting a lift pump first. While your at it get a fuel pressure gauge and install it. Maybe the injection pump might come back to life with a good strong lift pump. But I kind of doubt it. For good VP44 life span the fuel pressure should never drop below 14 PSI at WOT on the highway. So if the lift pump is making grinding noises and the filter housing is not filling up I'm going to have to say the lift pump is dead. But now you said you cracked the lines on the VP44 and tried priming it. Now did the fuel just leak out or was it FORCED out with pressure? You have to remember the VP44 has to create at least 4,500 PSI to first the injectors. so if it just dribbling out its not pumping at all. But if its squirting out and hitting the hood the pump is functional. This also depends on how loose the line is. I normal loose then reseat the nut with my fingers before I start cranking this will typically allow the VP44 build enough pressure to fire all six injectors but squirt fuel up so you can see it. There isn't enough prove to absolutely pont the finger at both yet condemning them as dead...

Wow... It must be a 3rd Gen issue or something... :shrug:I've got two 2nd Gen's sitting here in the yard... 96 Dodge is still running all factory front end parts at 147K miles and the 02 Dodge just got the track bar and ball joints done at 185K miles.As for parts I just ordered the cheapest ball joints for mine and stuff them in. I figure if Dodge is getting the cheapest joints and stuffing them in and I'm getting 185K out of them it can't be too bad...But come to think about it... Is there any oversized tires or different rims on the truck that might change geometry of the front end to cause it to fail early?

Yeah it sounds like someone replaced the orginal rubber hose with a clear vinyl tubing... But yes its a crankcase vent...

Stodg is correct...

Might wander over to RockAuto.Com and check with them on parts... www.rockauto.com

My Bad... :banghead: I wasn't paying attention I just got done with a ISS Pro thread on ITD... But Dipricol are gone your right... So ummm...

I'm cheating it with 80w-90 for now... But I keep a close eye on the fluid level and color and dump when it darken...

Welcome to the family! You might want to hook up with Relentless70 on the first gens... As for the 2002 I can help you out along with the other members of the family here...