Mopar1973Man

Here is one... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Geez... :duh:Now hopefully you don't have any more problems...

Make sure your CAPS lock is not on...

Well after quick phone call with Michael we now have a ISSPRO tech for the site... :hyper:Welcome to the family... Once again if there is anything I can fo you let me know...

Oil pan and pickup tube have to come off first... While you got the engine up pul the engine mounts off too makes it a bit easier I hear...ISX has pulled his 12V out and put it back out in a weekend fairly easy...

Also remember where we came from in oil design... Back in the 70's engine oils where really basic and didn't have much of a additive package. http://www.upmpg.com/motor_oil_rate_gas.htm As the additive packages improved over the years and design of engine oils the change internvals have been extended more and more over the years. I know old habits die hard but I use the factory specs as a safe point. So like 24V's are safe to run 7,500 miles by design. Even the 96 is 6K to a oil change... Then my 83 Goldwing 1100I is even 6K to a oil change... The only vehicle I got that is a super early change in my 08 Honda Rancher at 600 miles...

Its not a 4-5 quart gasoline engine where the fuel adds acids and other by products to the oil that cause damage. You got to remember its a diesel with 3 gallons (11-12 quarts) of oil. It takes a long time to use that amount of oil up... There is a old post here where Dorkweed ran his truck for 87K miles on a single oil change on Supertech 15w-40 and did oil test every 7K miles... It wasn't till 87K the silicon level started to rise and the oil was changed. Then there is CajFlynn here that changes ~20K miles for a oil change when he clears 1,000 miles a day and that means he would be doing weekly oil changes. His truck is run on fleetguard filters and Delo 15w-40 and cleared the million mile mark no problem. So this 3-5K oil changes are a waste of oil and money...

Mine is a true mechanical gauge showing real time pressure. Electric gauge might just leave the needle laying on the last position when the key is shut off.

Make sure to take the time and ask questions...

Here is a little vid on it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q

This little program works great for managing your maintenance... http://www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm

The guys are right its the grid heaters doing there job...Now to explain it a bit more. The grid heaters draw 195 amps pre-heat and then 95 Amps post-heat and everytime the grid heaters kick in it pulls really hard on the alternator giving that rattling sound. Grid heaters are use at temps below about 60-65*F. So enjoy the Cummins its doing its job...

Double check all fuse with a ohm meter not by looking at them... Being the ASD relay only connects to the PCM I would start over there checking grounds and cables. Remember the negative cable actually connects to the PCM directly. Pepsi71ocean just got done with a wiring issue which turn out to be a mechanic that couldn't read direction properly and cut a wire when he was suppose to tap the wire. Which just happen to be the +12V supply for the PCM. It happen to do really weird things. Turn on the heater and the gauges would die.So in the same thing double check all connectors on both the ECM and PCM for problems (debris, corrosion, etc.)Might pull error code it might give a clue to what might be happening.Being that when the headlight are turn off the ground is disconnected and the headlight lead is +12V hot. So when the the headlights are turned on the ground could be flooded with 12V (weak connection) so the engine dies. So my thought on it I would chase grounds first thing...

Schedule B I think is 3.5K miles but the only time Schedule B is required is when your running a truck for emergency vehicle like ambulance, fire truck, etc... Some that is truly flogged from the time you start it to the time you shutdown. But even the oil testing TDR did awhile back said that most petroleum oils will go 20K miles without a problem... [ATTACH]3568[/ATTACH] https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=17565

PCM is the voltage regulator...Blue wire should be hot (+12V) with the key on. Green wire is the field control which the PCM varies the ground signal... Hence why the passenger battery gorund is very important.Black lead is the charge lead going back to the PDC to the alternator fuse. Check the fuse with ohm meter (removed) so you can verify the fuse isn't cracked. If you got a crank sensor (or cam sensor for older models)... The RPM signal is what triggers the voltage regulator...

Main house... This is a "Stove that Jack Built" size is a 1 1/2. Guest House... This is another "Stove that Jack Built" this is a custom 1 to fit the fireplace...My entire heating bill for 1 year of heat is $400-$500 bucks... That's it... Can't do that with propane, electricity, or natural gas...Here is 1 month of heat for me... Looks like a lot but only cost me about $40 buck to get...Nearly 12 cords of firewood... 1 winters worth of heat for 2 houses... ($400-$500 to fill the shed!)

Point of reference for everyone... Every 7,500 miles (6 Months) is starting point from the owners manual.

There was a guy on CumminsForum that was doing the very same thing figure out how to program the ECM using ROMRaider Software and a homemade cord. He managed to disable the TQ Man and change the fueling tables for the most part without the use of Cummins Insite software. I know its possible but its frustrating that there isn't smoething like EFI Live out for the Cummins. I know both Smarty and EFI are working towards a release but...

10K oil and fleetgaurd filter... But 5K frantz filter change.

Lad79der (Matt) here is from another forum... You guys want to peek at his site... http://www.dogandtrailer.com Welcome to the family Matt...

Later on I'll have to take a pic of my guest house stove and put it on the site... Small fan force wood stove installed in the fireplace... I mean tiny house.

Just need to ditch the grease gun hose... Use a needle valve to dampen the pulses... Like both of us we got rubber hose in the line and effects the ground plane for electric sender. I had to phyiscally solder a wire to the sender because of the rubber. Now the grease gun hose does absolutely nothing... Its the water hammer that kills gauges not vibration...

As for stoves... Just buy a non EPA stove you'll be much happier. I've got a "Stove That Jack Built" its locally made right here in Idaho for about $1,400 bucks. All heavy duty gauge steel very heavy stove. No smog devices. But it burns very clean! Rarely do I see smoke from the chimey. I've got it down to a science on how many turns to open the air to get my pyrometer right at 800-1000*F constantly. Yes its a true pyrometer that has a probe that enters the stack not a surface thermometer.

It all depends on what the you capable of doing with said software...

That's what we are here for to help each other learn and over come problems... So any new information on the problem?