Mopar1973Man

Metric system does have its bonuses 0 to freeze and 100 to boil. Versus 32 to freeze and 212 to boil. But both agree at -40.

Very true too.

I'll meet you at the -7°C which is 19°F which is common for morning temp in New Meadows ID.

Easiest method.

Still the other problems could exist yet wiring wise. The best to do is unplug the ECM and ohm test pin to pin for the ECM plug and MAP sensor.

P0237 is map sensor too low. Most likely shorted to ground, no +5V signal, bad map sensor, open sensor lead to ECM.

Funny, I've got lots of Dorman parts on my truck. No issues.

Umm not the same spot. The spot mine was parked is out back. It will have full hook ups this summer. Your spot is out front by the driveway and only has the electric rock 120V 15A plug.

That the entire trick right there the lower the EGT's remain while driving the least amount of fuel being burned also the least amount of drag. This equals efficiency! Now you have much more room for towing or climbing hills without EGT's being a factor. Just to show a difference like yesterday I had to haul my buddies Bobcat to Donnelly ID. I chose to use Thor the 2006 Dodge. Bad choice... Being its stock timed that means the EGT's are way higher which I ran 1,100 to 1,200*F the whole trip. Not much power either. Now if I taken Beast the 2002 with all the timing tweaks I've done plus final ratio I would of had way less problems. Like my last haul with Beast to AZ with the RV I was climbing grades 7% at 7,000 feet without EGT's still floating 1,000*F which was about the same weight as what Thor was towing. Proper timing and gearing makes all the difference in the world for working these trucks.

Only way to get back there is change all the gearing to 4.10. Then you can go with bigger tires but you'll still lose because 35 to 37 inch tires are going to be heavy. Rotational mass and then just getting the clearance right to keep from rubbing. This is why when I hunt for a street race I always look for the big 37 inch tires and take them on. I always win. I'm quicker and have the least amount of loss of power to the road. Bigger tires typically mean to me most amount of loss, typically to high geared (lower than 3.55 ratio), rotational mass is higher, and EGT's become a limit on the other driver. I can power right through. The ONLY thing big tires are good for is floating on mud or deep snow. That's it!

That is the first mistake. I will never buy from eBay. eBay I've seen a lot of shady things happen and products don't show or ship. Products are damaged or used when they are suppose to be new. I dealt with this for a few years working with Smarty Resource. When vendors buy product and have to resort to selling on eBay its because typically the vendor is cheating either price or something why can't he sell from his own web page or internal store?

Simple... PCM - Only controls the dash cluster, transmission controls (auto), cruise control. ECM - Manages everything about the engine. MAP sensor, injection pump, etc. Hence why I asked for the error codes again to see what is real or not. When you reset the error codes now you'll be looking at what is actively is wrong if it trips again then we can make better game plans on what needs to be looked at.

Error codes?

Sad really that it makes the roads safer with salt but ruins the roadways and vehicles just as quick...

One thing to remember about building boost... More retard timing will build boost quicker and more boost pressure. More timing advancement the slower to build boost and less boost pressure. The whole trick is to have the retard in the right spot build quickly and the flip back to advancement. One of the few limitations to Smarty S03.

I would of painted them for out here in Idaho being the salt they use on the highway would have those rusted out in no time at all.

I know after I got done doing what I did for tune building for him I got it down another 200 to 250°F from when he started. Now I'm not sure after the tires what he gained from there.

Find your fuel leak would be my first action. Most likely between the return line tee in the back the square cut o-rings tend to leak with age. The return line in the back of the head the sealing washers can degrade and leak. Also could be 4, 5, or 6 injector cross over tube o-ring is weeping. Personally, I would just do a AirDog 150 and be done. On a long box you can with a bit of metal work mount it behind the transfer case and be fully guarded from debris strike or snow. I just got done doing a AirDog 150 on a short bed and doing a extra custom install. As you can see the factory bracket is missing and the frame was drilled and tapped for the pump bracket to bolt directly to the frame. High enough to to be struck by much and the frame horn for the cab guards the filters partly.

Mine started to fail about 350k miles and was leaning out a bit causing the belt to mistrack on the A/C pulley. Changed the tensioner and problem gone.

@Quadzilla Power We need to see about fixing the iQuad App so the gauges are no all laying on top of each other. As you can see the intake air / fuel temp and EGT / timing are crossing over each other.

I went from 265/75 R16 (31.6") to 245/75 R16 (30.5") now my 55 MPH EGT's are about 450 to 500°F. About 100°F drop having the final ratio of 3.69:1. As you can see a cruising MPG of close to 30 MPG. Where my good 28.04 MPG high mark comes from...

Pull the Quadzilla off and reset the error codes and go for a 10 to 15 mile ride and see if the code returns. If the code doesn't return send the Quadzilla in for repair on the boost fooler circuit most likely. If the code comes back without the Quadzilla then the ECM is damaged and will require to be sent out to be repaired like @Auto Computer Specialist or similar.

Yeah @Me78569 is another good Quadzilla tuner. I can too but im more economy designed not power.

438k miles later still not needed any of this stuff. The biggest thing why people need these pricey upgrades is typically because of oversized tires and lift kits. Once you mess with the geometry of the front axle its really tough to make it right again and keep all the mods like lift/leveling kits, oversized tires with large offsets. All these have impact on leverage of bearings, ball joints and steering parts. One of the few problems I still got to deal with on Thor being its got a 2 inch leveling kit and huge squatting problem now. Again previous owner screwed the geometry of the steering axle and thrust angles with just a leveling kit. 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 - Beast 245/75 R16 tires (On stock 2nd steel wheels) Blue Top Steering Gear "Quick Ratio" (Only can be used on 31 inch tires or smaller) Stock Tie Rods (Old Y steering) No lift or leveling kit. OE style Track Bar (NAPA) 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 - Thor 2 Inch leveling kit OE Track bar (thrust angle is incorrect since the track bar is not adjustable. Caster is incorrect being the 2 lift kit twist the axle to a more positive caster. Stock 17 inch wheel installed and ditched the 18 inch wheels. Stock 265/70 R17 tires installed gain quite a bit of power back and gained about 3 MPG. Ditched the 33 inch tires. Just tidbit to think on. Going from stock 31 inch (265/75 R16) to 37 inch tire your only going to gain 3 inches of clearance from the center of the rear diff. Remember every 2 inches of tire your only going to gain 1 inch of lift since the wheels are bolted at the center. So you only get half of the tires.

Just went out to verify the RV. Roof is untouched but a smaller limb tore up the A/C housing which is really brittle plastic. No problem I can fix that up and build a sheet metal housing for over the top. Yeah I got super lucky last night. I was heading to the bathroom for restock of my medi-set (vitamins and such) and heard the boom and was instantly choked up and couldn't talk. I just knew that limb had just broke off. Wasn't sure what I was going to see. When I went out to look at it and climb on the rear of the RV it was rest just a mere 2 inches off the top of the RV and never touched the roof. I mean seriously got lucky.