Mopar1973Man

I would just toss stock OEM master/slave units back in...

Now hence the idea of cutting the floor and laying in the pipe to drain away trapped water. After relizing the the old motorhome shed was dug down below the foundation level and that area isn't filling with water at the same time the house was so there is a underground spring under the house that is directly related to the runoff behind the main house.Because even Relentless70 brother suggested digging down next to the foundation to see if it would pool up... Well it should of on the wood shed side then...

Correct... 30 is too slow of a cetane level to burn properly... And yes 45 cetane is suggeste for winter use (Below +32*F) From my cetane page... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/67-diesel-fuel-cetane-rating-and-the-effects [TABLE] [TR=class: moparnote] [TD] Cummins Cetane Requirements for 1st, 2nd and 3rd Gen Trucks [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] A Cetane rating of 40 is recommended at temperatures above 32 degrees. [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] A Cetane rating of 45 is recommended at temperatures below 32 degrees. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

He's just adding naphthalene (Mothballs)... Solid form... (Mothballs) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthalene Liquid form... (Coleman Fuel) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha Where it comes from... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzene be aware that each has its own abilities to alter the fuels ability to either ignite, burn, etc. May make it earlier or later... Like looking at mothballs I would say its a cetane reducer because its got a really high autoignition temperature where Naptha has a really low autoigintion temperature so that would be cetane booster.

Actually I would like to correct you... Cummins is designed for 40-45 Cetane not 45-55... 50 is optimum for smog reasons not for MPG... For racing apps yes 50-55 cetne is require to have a fuel that can burn fast enough at 4K on the tach. So since 50-55 cetane is so low in BTU content that why most reacing/pulling rigs smoke like freight trains they must over fuel to obtain the power that is lost in the lower BTU's. Like the DieselPower mag has a article on a 1,500 HP engine requires 600 GPH lift pump just to keep it happy then the compression is reduced to 12:1 why??? Because high cetane fuel would pre-ignite so early with 150 PSI of boost it would either blow the head or gasket or start busting pistons. So now getting back to daily drivers like us... I typically see 1,500 to 1,600 RPM's for cruising speeds of 55 MPH so now I need a fuel that burns properly to the RPM and load of the engine. My engine load is typically 10-30% on the flats so a low cetane fuel would produce way more power than a high cetane fuel would. Hence why my MPG's are much higher than most people... Then for fun I called the local Chevron station and got a copy of the fuel data and plugged it into the ASTM grade scale. So when you average it out its about 45 cetane.

Not required... B2 has more lubricity that 2 cycle oil... So if you got a choice I would try B2... Problem is B2 fuels have less BTU's than normal diesel so MPG number might fall. Petroluem diesel typically has better MPG value but lubricity is lower. Trade off time...

I'll agree Dexter axles are a very good quality and common to find parts. :thumbup2:As for the trailer he right again you want a strong trailer but you don't want it so over built that carrying capacity is reduced because it pure weight. Consider the loads you plan on hauling first what kind of GCW are you looking at? Then find a trailer that is capable of handling that load with some margin of error.

The wood shed side is dug out below the foundation level already and there is no water there.

As you look at the pic above the tappets fill the 2 holes and the push rods go up from there... If you had the luck on your side the bit wouldn't make it to the hole in-between the tappets that drops down in the cam area. That's why I suggest the tappet cover.But this is all in theory...

Oh My... That would be a problem... The best thought would be to pull everything off the driver side (VP44, fuel filter, etc) and pull the cam cover off.

That's cool...

No.. because the problem is that cheaper fuel use heavier doses of xylene and benzene to water down the fuel to make it cheaper. Adding more cetane on top just drive the already high cetane higher making matters worse. Refer back to the ASTM testing grid. Higher the cetane the lower the BTU's. Give you point of reference gasoline is roughly 110K to 120K BTU's.

Problem the back of the house is buried in the mountain... Just like the main house.

Power steering is gear driven...The only thing the belt turns... Fan, Water pump, A/C, and Alternator... Sliiping belt could be a cause...

Don't tell me you just free rev'ed it... That doesn't work. How fast are you traveling with your foot to the floor?In my vid this is up to 75 MPH @ WOT. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0 As for the code... Double check the small wire to the relays. But fi they are good then the relay is bad just replace it.

Before throwing parts test it first...Pull the alternator and have it bench tested.Pull the batteries have them load tested.Check the alternator fuse for a crack. Yes these fuse can and will crack which will cause random open circuits or in your case a random dimming.Your right I would take a DVM and load check each circuit to find any draws that are excessive.

Yeah... Like me though I'm really close to weight rating of my LR D's ST Tires aired up at 65 PSI so it wouldn't be wise to push my luck...

You're getting really wet and muddy up there... Wow now that I could really read the article with a fresh mind... It's a mess up north and it explains why the the traffic down here on 95 has been light...

Dang... :duh:It tough to live in Idaho isn't it...

High cetane = Faster burn, early ignition, higher cylinder pressures, lower BTU's Low cetane = Slow burn, later ignition, lower cylinder pressures, higher BTU's (Better for MPG value) From the ASTM testing labs... Hence the knock cetane boosters produces where 2 cycle oil a cetane reducer doesn't do that.

Ok lets start with basics... [*]Is there any error code present? (Use a OBDII error code reader) [*]How is your fuel pressure? (At idle and WOT @ highway speeds) As for the error codes just because the light not on doesn't mean there isn't any error codes. As for fuel pressure you need to know both values because testing at idle might pass with flying colors but fail miserable at WOT at highway speed. This is really common.

If you wanted to confirm the valve and head condition then I would do a compression test to verify if there is any problems. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

I think the key to it is not to operate the tire outside its designed limits and the tire will not blow out. [*]Proper Tire Pressure [*]Operate below the speed rating [*]Don't overload the tire weigh capacity

No problems here... I know with the research of local fuels I do not need to add anything more to the fuel...

Well thank you to the help of Relentless 70 today... He came up and gave me a big hand moving furniture out in the shop and getting all the carpet pulled up and out to the dump. Boy I'll tell you all the carpet was soaking wet yet. So wet that when we threw it on the trailer it was running water all over the place. Then Relentless70's brother came up with a killer idea to prevent this from happening again. Since all the carpet is pulled up and the concrete is exposed... We are going to cut a groove in the floor about 4-5 inches wide then lay in a perforated drain field pipe and stub it out the fondation of the house. Plan on putting 2 pipes in to hopefully keep this from happening again!I'll grab some pics of the house in the morning... I'm a bit tired...(Ummm... You guys need to tone down just a bit on the and ...)