Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... Diesel Auto Power TH Racing KT Performance FTE Diesel And many more... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors Any of the vendors here are good choices... Just a matter of prices... I'm sure any of these vendors will stand behind there product they sell you! Note to self... Update the vendor list...

That threaded stub should be replaceable... Someone else would have to comfirm it though...

Odd... Must be a 3rd Gen issue... ScanGauge works on the 24V 2nd Gens no issues here except you got to shut the engine down and turn the key to ON then you can clear codes.

Other than Lucas test poorly in the HFRR testing... Bosch requires 450 HFRR or less for good performance... Lucas scored 641 HFRR http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives 2 cycle Oil scored 474 HFRR (200:1 ratio) I know 128:1 ratio is much lower more like 380-400 HFRR.

I got it for ya... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps I should break it out into its own article...

From what I see it looks ok... Magnets don't have chunks on them...:rolleyes:How about the rest of ya...

Might be worth just reposting them... Just leave them orginal size...

Could you post a link of what you looking at... Maybe a picture of what your working with... I'm at least curious... That's nothing...

Here is one... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Geez... :duh:Now hopefully you don't have any more problems...

Make sure your CAPS lock is not on...

Well after quick phone call with Michael we now have a ISSPRO tech for the site... :hyper:Welcome to the family... Once again if there is anything I can fo you let me know...

Oil pan and pickup tube have to come off first... While you got the engine up pul the engine mounts off too makes it a bit easier I hear...ISX has pulled his 12V out and put it back out in a weekend fairly easy...

Also remember where we came from in oil design... Back in the 70's engine oils where really basic and didn't have much of a additive package. http://www.upmpg.com/motor_oil_rate_gas.htm As the additive packages improved over the years and design of engine oils the change internvals have been extended more and more over the years. I know old habits die hard but I use the factory specs as a safe point. So like 24V's are safe to run 7,500 miles by design. Even the 96 is 6K to a oil change... Then my 83 Goldwing 1100I is even 6K to a oil change... The only vehicle I got that is a super early change in my 08 Honda Rancher at 600 miles...

Its not a 4-5 quart gasoline engine where the fuel adds acids and other by products to the oil that cause damage. You got to remember its a diesel with 3 gallons (11-12 quarts) of oil. It takes a long time to use that amount of oil up... There is a old post here where Dorkweed ran his truck for 87K miles on a single oil change on Supertech 15w-40 and did oil test every 7K miles... It wasn't till 87K the silicon level started to rise and the oil was changed. Then there is CajFlynn here that changes ~20K miles for a oil change when he clears 1,000 miles a day and that means he would be doing weekly oil changes. His truck is run on fleetguard filters and Delo 15w-40 and cleared the million mile mark no problem. So this 3-5K oil changes are a waste of oil and money...

Mine is a true mechanical gauge showing real time pressure. Electric gauge might just leave the needle laying on the last position when the key is shut off.

Make sure to take the time and ask questions...

Here is a little vid on it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q

This little program works great for managing your maintenance... http://www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm

The guys are right its the grid heaters doing there job...Now to explain it a bit more. The grid heaters draw 195 amps pre-heat and then 95 Amps post-heat and everytime the grid heaters kick in it pulls really hard on the alternator giving that rattling sound. Grid heaters are use at temps below about 60-65*F. So enjoy the Cummins its doing its job...

Double check all fuse with a ohm meter not by looking at them... Being the ASD relay only connects to the PCM I would start over there checking grounds and cables. Remember the negative cable actually connects to the PCM directly. Pepsi71ocean just got done with a wiring issue which turn out to be a mechanic that couldn't read direction properly and cut a wire when he was suppose to tap the wire. Which just happen to be the +12V supply for the PCM. It happen to do really weird things. Turn on the heater and the gauges would die.So in the same thing double check all connectors on both the ECM and PCM for problems (debris, corrosion, etc.)Might pull error code it might give a clue to what might be happening.Being that when the headlight are turn off the ground is disconnected and the headlight lead is +12V hot. So when the the headlights are turned on the ground could be flooded with 12V (weak connection) so the engine dies. So my thought on it I would chase grounds first thing...

Schedule B I think is 3.5K miles but the only time Schedule B is required is when your running a truck for emergency vehicle like ambulance, fire truck, etc... Some that is truly flogged from the time you start it to the time you shutdown. But even the oil testing TDR did awhile back said that most petroleum oils will go 20K miles without a problem... [ATTACH]3568[/ATTACH] https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=17565

PCM is the voltage regulator...Blue wire should be hot (+12V) with the key on. Green wire is the field control which the PCM varies the ground signal... Hence why the passenger battery gorund is very important.Black lead is the charge lead going back to the PDC to the alternator fuse. Check the fuse with ohm meter (removed) so you can verify the fuse isn't cracked. If you got a crank sensor (or cam sensor for older models)... The RPM signal is what triggers the voltage regulator...

Main house... This is a "Stove that Jack Built" size is a 1 1/2. Guest House... This is another "Stove that Jack Built" this is a custom 1 to fit the fireplace...My entire heating bill for 1 year of heat is $400-$500 bucks... That's it... Can't do that with propane, electricity, or natural gas...Here is 1 month of heat for me... Looks like a lot but only cost me about $40 buck to get...Nearly 12 cords of firewood... 1 winters worth of heat for 2 houses... ($400-$500 to fill the shed!)

Point of reference for everyone... Every 7,500 miles (6 Months) is starting point from the owners manual.