Mopar1973Man

I've been a Steward Warner fan from the 80's really when it came to gauge for muscle cars and such...

Like this...

Once again what you fuel pressure like idle pressure and WOT at highway speed?

Expanding on Pepsi post... He got a CCD Network propblem after the transmission was installed if you turn on the A/C or anyother HVAC setting the speedometer drop to zero and the odometer displays NO BUS and check engine light is tripped. But turn off the HVAC and everything returns to normal. I'm assuming its a ground issue...

Sound like you got it pretty well figured out now!

There is a electrical drain on it for sure. The easiest way to spot it would be pull on fuse at a time and using a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) on Amperage setting probe each fuse socket and see how much power draw is in each fuse. With the truck off it should be very small amount of power draw but it all should be milliamps...

Be careful with those kinds of chargers. I've seen a few time at the local fire dept where they use the same kind of chargers. I've seen these little chargers dry out batteries... Since the charger can't sense the battery temperature and adjust accordingly it can turn the battery overly warm and gassy. Just make sure to check the battery electrolyte levels on a set schedule and pay attention to batteries that are losing more water than typical or batteries that are overly warm.

The man you need to talk to is CajFlynn on the site here... He's the long haul guru...

Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=41:bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter&catid=24&Itemid=107

Here you go... 1620 CCA worth of fresh power!

Should peel that label off and stick your filter minder there...My first filter than ran 7 years and 130K miles.Then the location of the filter minder...The the heat shield I used backing nuts to pick up the filter above the A/C line a bit more. Also the studs are flush with the top of the nuts and don't touch the filter...

Understandable... It takes a special kind of person to live here thats for sure...

I found this little video and might be educational to some of you...

Lift pump is junk... Time to replace it...Minimum pressure is 10 PSISuggested Minimum is 14 PSI for longevity reasons.Maximum (Undocumented) pressure is 20 PSI.Normal pressure fall from idle to WOT at highway speed 2-3 PSIMax Pressure fall from idle to WOT at highway speed is 5 PSIHere is a quick video I did last summer... No comments about sucking a air bubble...

At the head... Crack 1,3,4 and then crack the engine till fuel spray is seen. Dribbling on the manifold doesn't count... Remember that Bosch VP44 injection pump can produce at minimum of 4,500 PSI at idle and upwards of 20,000 PSI at WOT. But the Bosch VP44 injection pump can't pump air very well so hence the engine won't start.

So now try the repiming the fuel system...

The lift pump can run a extra 5-10 seconds after the key is shut off. So if it running beyond 30-60 seconds then the ECM is screwy...

Well as for the lift pump it might be slipping the rotor head or the fuel regulator internally is stuck open. So you have to weigh that into your diagnosis.Double check to make sure no wires and pinched during the transmission work.

So I would put it all back together and then hook up a fuel pressure gauge and take it for a drive and see what happens. The fuel pressure gauge will tell you the story. Now are you running a stock lift pump in the side of the block?

Well the only way that will happen is you'll have to pull the pump off and send it into a place that has the test bench. There are very few places that actually have the VP44 test bench...

Easier to just remove the VP44 and everything else... I know it not a fun job but you'll be much happier keeping the oil in the crankcase...

Bump the starter and it will give you 25 seconds of 12 volt signal.

Ouch... P1688 code is a death code for the VP44 and it was cause from lack of fuel pressure so since the fuel pressure drop low most likely you lost the cooling ability for the electronics and burned them up. So you going to need... [*]Fuel pressure gauge [*]New Lift pump (Suggest a Raptor or simular) [*]New Injection pump As for the fuel pressure gauge, injection pump and lift pump all the vendors here are willing to help out and get you supplies. Check out the vendors forum. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers

Head over to Vulcan Performance hes got a good deal on BHAF filters. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm As for for the outer wears you'll have to do some creative design work to make a craddle for the filter to sit in so it doesn't wear holes in the outerwears. I had one and the washboard roads of Idaho wore holes in mine in less than 6 months... The filter minder is just a plastic barbed fitting. Use a little WD40 around the neck working into the grommet and with a screwing action back and forth it should come out. Then you should be able to remove the grommet.