Mopar1973Man

There is a way to inspect the damper... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/maintenance/damper/damper.htm

Like Relentless70 he's also a 1st gen like you and way he does it...AFC starwheel he counts from the bottom up.Smoke screw from flush in the lid down.Fuel screw... He won't mess with because we already gone beyond the stock throttle arm placement and had to re-index the arm because of idle being too high with the idle screw down to flush... She's turned up...

Well Dang... I'll have to find the document again about how the IAT is compared to BTS sensor at key on... I knew I read it somewhere but now I can find it... :banghead:

AH64ID... Since you a specs kind of guy would you happen to know the axle raing of the 2nd Gen 24V trucks. Could you list it out here... Please!

Rogan's right those thing when there are load to max capacity they don't turn for crap. The rear axle pop and all kinds of noise just trying to turn arond on dirt roads.

AH64ID the will come on every time for a bulb check. It just do you see the voltage gauge fall or not. (Grids being active or not). Driver side battery tray is the battery temp sensor.

Also running Edge Comp on 5x5... But don't have the surge problem.As for corrected MPG's my scangauge is closer to the mark thean hand math because my odometer is off by 0.5 MPH so by the end of a tank the odometer is off by 20-30 miles compared to my ScanGauge II and Garmin GPS V are dead on the mark. So if you going to do hand math do it off a GPS to get true correction of speed/distance because the percentage is a false way. Typically using percentage will boost it highier that actual.

The tread pattern is very close to my Cooper STT's which also pulls down the fuel mileage about 2-3 MPG. There also approximately 25 pounds heavier than my 235/85 R16's... Which I've got mounted up on the truck now...

Remember grid hater actions are based off of 3 sensors... [*]ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature [*]IAT - Intake Manifold Temperature [*]BTS - Battery Temperature Sensor Like on my truck I've seen this a million times. Run to New Meadows, ID and got a full head of temp 195* ECT. Then stop some where for like a soda shut jump out get your soda and fire right back up. Maybe shut down all of 2-5 minutes tops. The IAT and ECT and well above trigger point for grid heaters. But still the wait to start comes on voltage falls (grid heaters are active). Then after you fire up it pulsing grid heaters after your running again. The only reason I can see this occuring is the BTS being cold enough... Even in the FSM they mention that there is a relationship between the IAT and BTS sensors.

Geez... My street tires are only 62# and my offroad Cooper STT's are only 85#... Shaving weight off where I can... Even myself I lost nearly 20 pounds on my body...

4420# Front axle5200# FAWR3040# Rear axle6084# RAWR7460# Total8800# GVWR1,000# Tongue Weight Capacity13,600# Trailer capacity20,000# GCWRFull listing...

4420# Front axle3040# Rear axle7460# Total

It should not be parallel it should be across the pins of the IAT plug. IAT sensor should not be hooked up... Or build this part of the high idle mod... Build the ECT fooler the upper one... Then change the ECT plug for IAT plugs... Then use your resistor... This will give you control of the IAT sensor or the fooling resistor.

... Seriously... What does the CD player and the GPS have in common???

Like when Dieselpower mag did the 30 MPG truck they had cover the grill and ran the temps all the way up to 205-208*F and improve effiecncy of the engine. Cold thermostat is bad new. The oil temp never comes up, oil doesn't flow like it should, and increase drag on the engine...

Sounds about right...

Plus one other down fall is the high ash content of ATF... It will plug up injection and coat the pistons top with ash deposits...

Winter front on too?

I know that are quite well... I see you figure out how to reduce your torque curve a bit to gain traction.

Not a TBI... Its FI... I'm not the type to give up easy... I'm going to try and learn all the trick of the V8 gasser like I've been doing on the Cummins Diesel. If I'm capable of going from 16-17 Stock and reach all the way to 25 MPG (highmark) then I know I can do something with this gasser. It going to take time and study work to figure it out.

Axle bearings, wheel seals, knuckle boots are a really PITA but its a common failure. You'll end up with gear lube soaked brakes and drums. Engine wise they are nearly bullet proof. The turbo charged engine are MUCH stronger than the non-turboed. They are not know for high road speeds (Max of about 55 MPH) but they will pull huge amount of weight without thinking twice... Injection pump is simular to the ol' VE pump in the first gen once you look at you'll understand what I mean. Here is Water Tender 6

Figures you would do that... :lmao:But still it gives me a project to work on this winter to get that beast back like it was when I first got it. I was seeing 16-17 MPG. I'm waiting for weather to straighten out for a few days so I can get to Boise, ID for oil and other stuff.

THe local fire dept has 3 Deuce and a Half truck used for water tenders... What you want to know since I did the maintenance on them for over 6 years...

All I can say is a internal ECM problem because once the ECM is replaced the problem goes away...

Yeah there is a post here about the 3.9L cam chain problem too. I know the 5.9L doesn't have that particular problem but it would be worth looking at the condition of the cam chain.But since I done the plenum gasket and got it done it runs a whole lot better but the MPG's around here short tripping and with the cold is about 12-14 MPG at best. But with diesel at $4.499 and gas at $3.629 I drive a gaser...