Mopar1973Man

Fixed...

Yes... I seen that too not in my Dodge but in a military 2 1/2 ton... We had a fire fighter fire it up and had smoke coming out the air clean and ran backwards in all forward gears.I've heard of one other Dodge 12V that managed to fire up backwards...So its possible but rare...So if it did run in reverse double check your air cleaner because it will be damaged by the extreme heat of the exhaust coming back that way...

Holy Chit... :wow:Yeah but we do just fine with our small turbo chargers compared to that monster...

At $4.469 (New Meadows, ID) for diesel now it not even considered... (25 gallons x $4.469 = $111.73) But $3.629 sounds a lot better for the 96 Dodge... But it only gets about 12-13 MPG... Here is the stats block from my Excel sheet...

That's all cool... Since I don't normally run tank to tank... I'm more of a 5 gallons here 15 gallons here... So if I use fuelly I would have lot less information because of the incomplete tanks. So my math is modified for the incomplete tanks... =(A686-A683)/(SUM(C684:C686)) (Odometer of current fill - Odometer of last fill) / (Sum of all gallons in between) So in the above image... 12.197 + 11.742 + 21.912 = 45.851 190,916 - 190,201 = 715 715 / 45.851 = 15.593 MPG's

No... Its all about EPA and CARB not performance or MPG. So like on my chainsaw (Sthl 046) I have the same setup a summer and winter shutter or pre-warm air or cold air. Since standard vehicle are under the EPA coverage they must tune to meet the lowest emissions... They don't care about MPG's... If the did half the garbage on our trucks would be here. (EGR, DPF, short exhaust lobe, etc)

You can check diodes rather simply... Just use a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) and check the battery voltage while the engine is running on DC Volts. Then flip to AC Volts if it rises above 0.5 Volts you got a bad diode bleeding AC waveform.

I've played with the coolant sensor some and found it controls the idle speed and possibly some other fuel parameters.

Worth considering... I'm looking at finding a set of retreads for the 96 Dodge now... This might be a good choice...

For what ever reason that where the tachometer lands more times out of ten... Yes your right speed is a factor but kicking it down a gear on flat ground back to 2K isn't going to gain much if any at all. I did so some gain but not much (+/- 0.2).This of course is 3.55 gears not 4.10 and a 5 speed trans not a auto... Even like Cummins puts it... You get better MPG staying in top gear as long as possible but keeping your RPM's a low as possible for your load of cargo.Yes towing a TT over a grade you get much better performance at 2K than that at 1.5K...

Ah... I just use Windows Excel...

1,500-1,600 RPM's is the best for MPG's... Being that diesel is now $4.469 here in New Meadows, ID I really got to watch the MPG's more than speed.

Well after reading over the documents its going to be quite a challenge to install... http://hotstart.com/assets/PDF/TPS-installation-instruction-216061-064-REV-0.pdf Being all the coolant passages are on the exhaust side of the head. But as for the bracket I would just fab out custom bracket to frame of the truck. Drill and tap mounting holes into the frame and just bolt it to the frame.

Barring tool where did you get it at and how much?

Block heater are normally more than enough on these trucks... So why a second heater?

I've found that if you hang on the slope too long it may start to gurgle out some oil but it takes much more effort for it to occur. :smart:The only reason for the mod was like you I travel some steep mountain slopes fishing for firewood...

I highly suggest you pull the pump to do the work. As ofr doing the work its not to hard for replacing o-ring and such but there is several small parts and springs and it difficult to do this kind of work on the truck. The VE pump is keyed to the gear so it like installing a VP44. As for timing scratch a timing mark from the case of the VE bracket to the gear case to line up after doing your re-seal work.Now if you drop something inside the pump with the pump on the bench you can just flip it up-side-down to get the piece out but if its still attached to the engine you got to fish though a puddle of diesel fuel hoping to fish out what you may of dropped.. Don't ask how I know this...

Doesn't exist for the 3rd Gen family... But there is a high idle function using the cruise control.

As far as mods of the 3rd gen bodies... There isn't must that you can do other than a crank sensor / tone ring mod... You might ask Dorkweed about that I think he's got it...

Not enough coffee this morning...

Could you fill out your sig and profile so we know what you got for a vehicle...

ABS light on?Typically when the ABS light comes on its because of on of the speed sensor is screwed up and not reading properly. I had the same problem it was because of a speed sensor failing and as the ABS unit seen the speeds (left front, right front and rear) were not matching then the ABS pump fights back trying to prevent lock up of the slow wheel.

Knowing parts for the VE pump are rather tough to find I would Remove the line carefully and see about soldering hole. Or possibly see if any local injection pump shop do have the line. I know there is seal kit for the VE pumps but as for part they are rather tough to find...

I can tell you that since my IAT is disabled my grid heater are partially disabled as well. But I know that 16.3:1 ratio will start at as low as +25*F with a bit of effort. Below that it next to impposible without grid heaters.

Another way to to drive the truck where you can let it roll to a stop and then check the temp of the brake carefully and see which one is warmer or hot compared to the others. Usually a clue to the dragging brake...