Mopar1973Man

It's not a search its tag cloud... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php So everytime some tags a thread its added to the cloud on popular phrases...

Sorry I missed this thread... :doh:But if your pulling vaccum on one side the other side must vent to allow movement. Other than that you'll have vacuum on both side and no movement.

No I do not use any of the stock stuff... Everything is seperate from stock. Trailer relay is the trigger to turn on. (Trailer relay has to remain because I do tow trailers!) Fog lamp relat is the trigger for hi/lo beams. (No fog lamp relay present) [*]The fog lamps follow the setting that the main headlights are on. So if you select high beams the fog lamps will follow and go to high beam mode. If you select low beams the fog lamps will follow by going to low beam mode. You never have to worry about blinding some one with this system. [*]If you go from headlight to parking lamps the fog lamps are forced to low beam mode regardless of the pervious head light mode. But if you use the dimmer switch to wink the high beam the fog lamps will follow. But will return to low beam mode when released. [*]When the headlights are turned off the fog lamps are forced off as well. You don't have to worry about shutting down a second switch. My kit also includes a bypass shutdown switch too. This allows you to run only your stock headlights without the fog lamps. [*]The kit requires tapping a few signal wires. But the lights are completely supplied by there own fuse from the battery. This will not put any extra load on you headlight circuit. The kit requires a signal from the trailer relay and a signal from the fog lamp relay. That's it!

Mine does all that...

Gotta Covered... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/fog-lights/fog-lights.htm

The reason why the dealer was tell you to put a intank pump in is because the fact no pump is designed to suck fuel any length of distance. So most of use have move the lift pump back close to the fuel tank reducing the suction required (lift).But I would look into pump relocation kit (Vulcan Performance) and move the FASS back by the fuel tank with all 1/2" lines...

Calculated flow rate of 1/2" ID pipe 15 foot long at 15 PSI should be capable of over 500 GPH. But the stock tubing is actually 6mm ID which is only good for about 75 GPH at 15 PSI... This is all calculated numbers... Real world flow rates with elobws and such are tyically lower...

But pull the filter out briefly and look at the center tube notice the holes are at the top. So technically there is no where for the fuel to go...

I've got thing about USFS... :nono:After going through the Poe Cabin fire here in Idaho I will never believe anyone that tells me fire is a good thing... Bulls__t!!! The only thing fire done was line everyone pockets with lots of money.. Huge loss of forest though... I'm still cutting burnt trees for firewood...

I guess not... Sad to see people getting hurt but that is plum wild to see 100 pound chunk of steel flying...

The center tube might be damaged or the water drain is leaking... :shrug:Because at least on my truck the plastic center tube has the outlet hole at the top and should hold fuel without draining out. So if the water drain is leaking then it will keep draining out on you adding air to the system creating a hard start...

Well this might help by going back to the main forum page scroll down and check the tag cloud for A/C or Air Conditioning. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=air+conditioning http://forum.mopar1973man.com/tags.php?tag=a%2Fc Hopefully those help out... Tag cloud is very helpful!

Try placing the trans in Neutral for a short span give it a bit of rev and then select a gear. If this improve the shift issue then its a bleed back issue on the torque converter. I know on the Dodge Rams they have a check valve. But for Jeep I'm not sure. Might wonder over to www.ramforum.com and ask these boys they might have a tidbit more information on it. Worth trying...

Actually it should be open by 20 PSI. You'd be surprised how fast that opens and how like it actually moves...

Your welcome I'm glad we got you running again...But it seem the electrical problems are now starting to hit these truck after 10-11 years of ago.. Might be a good time to cram dielectric grease in all the sockets again.

Would any of you guys and gals be willing to give aid to a fellow forum owner? RamForum.com can use some information and tales from you guys and gals. Their diesel database is rather empty and its really hard to attract anyone to visit a forum if the forum areas are empty. So I'm going to be aiding RamForums.com and getting them jump started with information. Is there any other people willing to jump in with me? I got to admit after wondering through their site they have a huge wealth of Gasoline power Ram information... So come follow me and give them a hand gang... www.ramforum.com http://www.ramforum.com/f65/

Sooner or later you'll run into FlagmanRuss with his Dodge Cirrus car that has had a few problems...

Hey Gang...I got to introduce Ramhunter9. He's one of the owners of RamForum.com. His site has a pile of information for Gasoline Powered Dodge Ram's so fo any of you guys and gals that need a hand with your gasoline powered Dodge I'm sure they go someone that can help...

Well that a old school draw straw for ya... I know better and still did it... Oh Well... But if you notice I drop the throttle quickly and let it build again then hammer down again... I'm not to worried I'm running 2 cycle oil... I normally drive with a light foot and concerve fuel... This is not a good example of this...

I've got a AD150 and still do better... How is that??? :shrug:17.5 @ idle14.5 - 15.0 @ WOT to 75 MPH

Ahh... I see your sneaking around... Welcome to the group...

I run a Edge Comp with the VP44 tapped and been getting about 21-22 MPG empty and 12-13 MPG towing my Jayco Eagle TT. I leave the Edge Comp on 5x5 and tow even on the highest settings without problems. I just monitor EGT's climbing high and adjust speed accordly to the EGT's... 6% grade I go over without even slowing down much 60 MPH and 1,100*F EGT's.Here is a sample of my MPG's on flat ground...

Basically what most of all the step do is verify there is no broken or corroded wires... Then it verify there are not shorted wires to ground or power. I typically hit every step and just check each step to see if it passes or fails it... It might give more clues.

I went through 3 of them in about a 1.5 year time... (35K miles)

Just because you idle pressure is fine doesn't mean your WOT pressure is good too... From another member of the site... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB8o24rw1eU So when testing fuel pressure you need 2 number idle and WOT pressure. Because as you just seen you can have a great 19 PSI and at WOT fall to ZERO and be ruining a VP44 in very little time...