Mopar1973Man

No... I'm running much more that you... RV275 (+40) and Edge Comp (+120) Which put me roughly at 160 HP gain. Still very controllable I run the Edge Comp on 5x5 and tow my Jayco Eagle TT (7,200#) not a problem. I've gone over grade with my cruise set at 60 mPH at 32 PSI of boost and still hovering at 1,100*F not bad at all...

Really simple... The second part from the left is just the nozzle and pintle. At any rate when you change nozzles and pintles you'll need to take the injectors in and have them pop tested. If the pop to early then tha pull the shim (the small washer to the right of the spring) and change it for thicker. Then retest again.

Talk to ISX he pretty good with 12V wiring...

A set of RV275 or +75 HP injectors are fine... Good for MPG's and give a mild jump in power... Very controllable...

100 or 150 is fine...

I would call AirDog on it... It a warranty issue and they should replace no questions asked...

Just for fun... My Old School DiPricol's that are no longer made... (I like these)

What happened???

ABS speed sensor failure on the front axle. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm P0216 is a VP44 death code. The advancement cam is not keeping time as desired by the ECM. This can be caused by low fuel pressure.

It got to be a suction line problem. If the suction line is drawing in excesive amount of air it will flood the pump with to much and then lose prime and take a second to get prime again.

Well your doing something wrong... You suppose to use the same fuel station and the same pump in the same direction. So this time fill up don't adjust it... But go through the fillup. Then run through the tank nearly empty and fill at the same pump at the same direction. Now set it and leave it alone till you make fueling mods. You find that you constantly adjust it because of the mild offset of the pump, slope of ground, etc... So once it set leave it alone... Just adjust the fuel price...

Man that's a hell of story there... I'm glad you all are safe... Just keep prayin...

As far as I know he got the truck with 300K or so... I've known Caj now since like 580K miles... Miles fly by quick for him...

As for check resistance... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm This method works any where with any wire, connectors, etc.. You could jump a power source to the proper pin but make sure you hook up to the right pin... Or POOF!

Well a local rancher lost his injection pump (P1688) and what asking if I would do the job and install a new one... Of course not a problem for me. But as he's finding out after srufing the web and calling around he's having problems finding the VP44 in stock. So be aware parts are getting a bit tough to get at times...

Don't forget pics... We want pics... --- Update to the previous post... Email sent from Caj... Go man go!

J/C = Joint Connector Joint connector is a point that all wire come together like a main splice. But wired up like a large plug. Fuse #12 in the cab is the fuse for the OBDII port.

So I gathered you got it all calibrated properly.

How much fuel is in the tank? If the tank is below 1/2 a tank its still possible on hard launches to suck a air bubble into the system and the pressure to fall and them pop back up. Try filling the tank if you can and try again. I bet it goes a way.

No need for additive just change the coolant every 30K miles... Now if you think you can extend this and get away with it I suggest you don't because as coolant ages it turn basic or acidic which at first will not change the color of the coolant but by the time you do see a change it too late. So if you hold to the recommended 30K change schedule you block and radiator will look like mine in 5 years...

Green piece I know you need the wiring diagram... So here is a upgrade to your account so you can download the 2002 wiring diagram which should help you trace out whats going on...

This is the point of history where the in-tank lift pump was designed and used for all 98.5 and up trucks... (Making matter worse) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/pdf/IntankPumpExposed.pdf

Boost gauge is fine... Fuel pressure you got to use a 0-30 PSI fuel pressure... Because 15 PSI isn't going to move the needle much on a 100 PSI gauge... EGT's you want a 0-1600*F pyrometer... As for company take a peak at the manufacture listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

Since my towing is seasonal during the winter months I drop the pressures down because a softer tire has better traction on ice and snow. But come summer time and it wood hauling season and camping I'll be dragging a trailer around most of the time so I air the up and leave them.

Excessive oil level points to failed injector(s)... Hard starting points to leaking injector(s) because the CP3 can't build enough rail pressure...