Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... I can't say I've tried one... But I kind of wonder how grabby it might be? Like my Southbend Con OFE is a bit grabby with the polyurathane bushings in the hub. I kind of wish I would of got the spring hub instead of the poly hub. But the 13" flywheel is a nice addon that give much more bit for heavy pulling vs. the old school 12.25" flywheel. Yeah I know I'm comparing apples to oranges here...

Nice generator Russ... Now I'm waiting for the report of how it does with the trailer and your little get-around cart.

They got PAG oil in the can that you can charge on a manifold... Or you can pull a vacuum and the let it pull it from a normal bottle your choice. But its best to start with a dry system and charge with the proper amount. I typically prefer the canned PAG oil then there is less chance of getting debris in the system.

For quick reference...

185K on the clock... This is a milestone again for me... 100K miles of using 2 cycle oil and ZERO problems!

Time to get greasy...

No fun to use Gasbuddy if I'm the only one going to report diesel prices...

They will know me and the site by name really soon... (D'Oh!)

Well first thing... Q: Do you have pyrometer and boost gauges? If yes you can slide the plate forward some to add to the fuel but back towards the cab reduces fuel. Now if you really want to go nuts you could pull the plate and AFC control completely off and run like ISX with 27 MPG... But I wouldn't suggest that for any novice Cummins owner especially without gauges. As for the starwheel you can change that with too much worry of change EGT's because its still limited by the plate.

That only because someone sitting behind a desk that never picked up wrench in his life looks at some staggering report of how poorly some engines did in "Their Test" and then put the FAIL stamp on it. I'm sorry to say but I don't think EPA, CARB, and a few other agencies are telling the full truth because the oil industry is a controlling factor too. We don't want to many people saving money with fuel efficient vehicles that means big oil loses profits so they will mark them as polluters... :banghead: Like way back in the 80's with my 1973 Charger I had to do the smog thing. I would hook up the EGR valve, etc. Everytime I would try and pass I would just barely make it under the wire. So I got bold one day and unhooked all the smog crap and went back to a buddy's shop and re-tested again without EGR, etc. I passed with flying colors for tail pipe emissions. But failed because all the smog equiptment was missing. Now with 73 Charger with all the smog equiptment in place I got like 14-15 MPG now pull it all off I was up to 18-20 MPG with a light foot. Once again I don't think EPA and CARB are tell the full truth like Al Gore and "Global Warming" which we all know is a lie...

But the thing that everyone forgets is that all plant absorb CO2 emissions and convert it to O2... Then if CO2 emissions were such a problem why is USFS lighting off control burns that are so big that even Idaho skys can compete with California smog. Here is a sample of USFS control burns and what it does. So the whole idea of carbon footprint etc... I think is all BS to get more $$$ from our pockets in taxes. Because it sure doesn't bother USFS to light up over 1,000 arces to burn and let a whole part of the state fill with orange/grey smoke for days. :banghead: My though on the the whole fuel thing... The less fuel you burn (high MPG's) the less emissions you expelling in the air...

Yeah I did... I comes is a smaller R134a can just a dye pack that you charge up the same way. But what I found out you need the UV glasses and the a good UV light to spot these leaks.

I personally don't agree with washable filter because most times out of ten people deposite dirt and debris on the insideo f the filter by washing the wrong way. Then every time you wash filter the media breaks down more and more taking a bigger risk at opening holes in the media and allowing dirt to pass. As for washable BHAF there is a K&N, AFe, and few others but there media isn't as large as BHAF... Just for fun... My last BHAF which happen to be my first one lasted 135K miles and 7 years... Using the filter minder in the head of it... The filter minder never moved during its life but I always inspected the media. The madia started darkening on the inside so I gave up at that point. So even if you buy a BHAF you really can go a long ways... You got to remember most all roads out here are dirt.

http://youtu.be/fRqj374cc2o http://youtu.be/rasp88nbsRw You guys got to check it out...

Dang that sad that no one is willing to actual do the work to save the owner a few bucks. They would all like to have the easy way out... Nothing again you Russ you know that... 3K miles between us... :banghead: With a bad economy...

ALWAYS!!!

$51 + $82 = $133 I just checked... I went over to RockAuto.Com and a caliper rebuild kit is $2 buck to $5 bucks. Then checking my labor book its 0.8 hours to service a single caliper (1.4 for both). So yeah you could of done much better... As for the caliper ranging $25 to $54 for unloaded (no pads) or loaded (with pads) $42 to $101... (Information base)

Well up here in Lewiston, ID just for fun I got a few prices for charging A/C systems. Dodge Dealer wants $190 bucks. Then Burnell Tire wants $160 for a recharge. Sorry guys... But I can buy 3 cans of freon for $11 bucks and recharge my own for nothing... (Got a start another thread - Don't want to hijack)

Well I got to admit I learned something and feel like a dumb arse... Ok years ago I stuck a piece of hardware mesh in front of the coolers to protect them from bug, stones, etc. What happened is the wind was flexing the screen and rubbing the A/C condenser. If we dig in the archives I'll admit I JB welded the rub marks thinking to protect the line from future damage. Well the damage was done. :banghead: I took the truck to Lewiston, ID to let a tech track down the leak for me. Found out R134A freon mocule is so small it passes through the JB weld epoxy and the tech found the green dye leeching through the JB weld. Sad part is the condenser and the high side pipe are both damaged. So After getting bids around Lewsiton, ID I found out its much cheaper to get the parts through Rockauto.com ($24 for the high side pipe) than a part store ($48 for the high side pipe) or the dealer. ($130 for the high side pipe) So I got to order a few more parts and get busy again...

Removing the turbo is the best and safest choice... Only takes a few minutes to pop it off there... I still say if the turbo is dirty I would clean out the entire air system... (Intercooler, piping, boots, etc)

I would run the AFC starwheel down as far as it will go. This will bring on fuel as quickly as possible. Might even slide the plate forward a bit and see how it all works out... But still it would be a good idea at least check the timing...

I'm playing with the values of resistors now. So I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm at 55 MPH @ 1589 RPM's with 3.55 Gears. I don't start lugging till down to 1,300 or so at least with my truck. I normally run in the 1,500 to 2,000 RPM span. So once I fall to 50 I grab 4th gear and now I'm back up to 2,000 RPM's again. But tell you the truth if you could find back roads that allow slower speeds my sweet spot is 4th Gear @ 1800 RPM and getting better than 25 MPG. You got to remember wind drag will double from 55 MPH to 65 MPH and quadruple from 55 MPH to 75 MPH... Now looking at the 47RE ratios... 4th Gear 0.69:1 Ratio 3rd Gear 1:1 Ratio Then NV4500 Ratios... 5th Gear 0.75:1 Ratio 4th Gear 1:1 Ratio

Got it done the article is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen12v/p-pump/timing-check.htm

Comments in blue... If you find the smiley and bring it he I'll upload it to the system...

Draining a batery to 0 Volts does serious damage to them most times. Normal car/truck batteries are consider dead at about 11.8-12.0 Volts below this point damage to the plates start occuring. Remember car/truck batteries are NOT deep cycle batteries so they do not tolerate being discharged deeply and then recharged. Maybe that way my factory orignal batteries at still going yet...